OUR OWN DAY

                                    Scraping the Itinerary

       England was coping with a big epidemic of hoof and mouth disease so many people had cancelled their trip. However, it did not hamper our trip in any way and I was glad I stuck with my plans.

     One day in Cornwall, England the ten of us all found the day’s itinerary  unappealing. At breakfast as a group we decided that we wanted to scrap the original plans and do something else. I was sort of elected spokesman of the group and our decision  stymied our guide. However, she was a trooper and turned the day into a marvelous one for us.

     We started the day by hiking down a lovely deserted lane. The narrow paved road was covered with a natural canopy of natural trees and vines that had reached across the road and tangled into a wonderful cover. A footpath at the end of the road led us to a deserted sandy beach. Another footpath brought us to a quaint village where the houses were topped with picturesque thatched roofs.

     Both paths ambled through areas of lush vegetation where many wildflowers were in bloom. But at the village we found the next footpath closed because of the cow epidemic.  The guide used her cell phone to call the van driver to come pick us up.

     Looking at a map, the driver discovered we were not far from a seal sanctuary. There I saw several species of seals I had never seen before. Often babies would be bashed against the rocks in the rough waters, so the sanctuary often has nearly a full house.

      Laughingly I often ask people if they know anyone who has ever been to Qweek, England. Following narrow lanes just wide enough for one vehicle brought us to the village and its single pub where we enjoyed a delicious lunch. It’s a typically  quaint small English village.

     Early afternoon found us wandering around a century-old garden. This garden was a very natural one, not manicured as are many English gardens. I walked the many paths enjoying the garden’s varied and lovely foliage and flowers. At the end of one path near the ocean cliff was a memorial plaque to the WW II soldiers who had gone to the battlefield from that point.

      I paused to sit on many of the benches scattered around the garden to thoroughly enjoy the peace and quiet of the lovely old garden.

      It turned out to be an interesting full day on a beautiful day with many unexpected surprises. Ah the advantage of small groups!

CORNWALL TIN MINE

                                          A Claustrophobic Mine

      Once Cornwall, England was the tin center of Europe when tin mining was the lifeblood of the small communities in the area. The landscape is dotted with stacks of the old mines.

     As claustrophobic as I am, my children can’t believe that I actually went underground to visit the Geevor Tin Mine. In 1911 Geevor opened an old mine; the Victory shaft was sunk in 1919 and extended 1575 feet into the ground. In 1965 three mines combined for a total of two square miles. In 1975-80 a 1:4 gradient shaft was added under the ocean. Only ten percent of the rock mined is turned into tin ore. It takes 24-30 hours to get the rock ready for the smelters. Iron, copper and arsenic are also found in the rock.

     In 1985 the price of tin dropped 60% overnight. The Geevor mine,  containing 160 miles of tunnel, continued to operate five years longer but closed in 1990. At that time it employed 370 men, 130 of whom worked  underground.. All the workers lived within a 7-10 mile radius of the mine, but after the mine’s closing many of the men moved overseas to work in mines elsewhere.

     Mining was men’s work, No women were allowed in the mines. Years ago boys as young as 8-years old were sent into the mines. Many mines were a family enterprise.  Totally dark in the mines, candles provided the only light, Each miner supplied all his own equipment and tools. He was paid for what he produced; there were no hourly wages or any sick time. Miners often stayed in the mine 10-12 hours in cramped positions—from dawn to nightfall. They suffered poor eyesight and had a life-span of only 40 years.  Many died of tuberculosis. Mining was rock, darkness, and water. It was one very hard life!

     In 1991 they started flooding the under-ocean mine. It took 3 ½ years to bring the water to sea level. In 1993 part of the mine opened as a museum.

    This was neither my first nor last mine or cave adventure, but it was perhaps the darkest. For this trek we all put on hard hats and mid-calf length smocks before entering the mine. The narrow pathway necessitated single file with each of us holding onto the waist of the person in front of  us as we wove our way through the tunnel. Bumping heads and elbows happened often!  The guide in front had the only flashlight (torch in England). I did a lot of silent self-talk to remain calm during this experience. I was one happy camper to see daylight!         

UNEXPECTED STRIPTEASE

                                        A Secret Striptease

     When I arrived in Yorkshire, England the weather had turned considerably cooler, so for the first hike up the moors I decided to wear my silk long johns under my light weight slacks.

     Because of the literary history and fame of the area I was excited and was hoping to see some heather on my first moor hike. It was over 1000-feet straight up to the top of the moor.  However we zig zagged over a switchback path through pastureland and open fields during the 2-3 hour climb. The rather cool wind made me realize I’d made the right wardrobe choice in the early morning.

     At the top the wind was so strong that I thought it might actually blow over one little lady in the group. But on the other side of the moor it was much warmer and practically windless on the sunny day, so that is where we sat to eat our lunch. After lunch our guides tried to teach us some sort of a ball game popular in England.

     The hike down the moor was over a relatively smooth ‘farm road’ with a gentle decline.  Later the guide told us that most groups are taken up over the road, but they thought we were fit enough for the more rugged climb through the pastures. None of us complained!

     With the wind gone and the sun high in the cloudless sky I began to get warm and started thinking about how I was going to get those long johns off.  About half way down we stopped to visit an ancient church.  I entertained  removing those  silkies in the  crypt, but on second thought maybe not. Back up from the crypt and outside I decided the cemetery was the perfect place for a striptease!

     Sitting on a large tombstone just off the main walkway I slipped off one boot and quickly removed my leg from both  the silky and trouser leg, shoved my leg back in the trouser leg and my  foot into my boot. Then I repeated that process with the other leg. Quickly I balled up  the long johns and shoved them in my pocket,  retied my boots and was ready to move on. Quick as a flash I had performed my striptease with no one aware of what I was doing.

     Back on the road, after a bit I reached in my pocket to pull out a bit of my silkies and poked my friend in the arm saying, “Look what I’ve got.”

     Amazed she replied, “How did you do that?”

     “I'll  never tell,” I giggled.

ST MICHAEL'S MOUNT

                                 Center Piece in the Bay

One of Cornwall’s most famous natural landmarks is St. Michael’s Mount. It sits 200’ above the bay on the highest point of the granite and slate island rising out of the water. Built over the site of a Benedictine chapel, it has been a church, fortress, and private residence.  It was one huffing hike over a very rough cobblestone path to the top, but the views were spectacular, the castle was lovely, and it certainly was worth the climb.

I was the first to make it to the top, passing a couple who had touted all trip what terrific hikers they were. I was surprised to see them stop every few steps to get their breath. I have found that the people who do the most talking are often full of hot air.

      One can walk the causeway, built in 1425, only at very low tide, otherwise it’s a pound fare for the ‘ferry’ ride. The 12 passenger ferry was little more than an open row boat with an outboard motor. Eight boats run continuously.  At the top of one of the pair of stairs at the island loading piers is a gold footprint marked VC in commemoration of Queen Victoria’s visit in 1846. I wonder if she made the climb to the top?

       The castle was a defense in 1585 when the Spanish tried to invade, and for any significant disturbance since. St. Michael’s Mount was built by the same French monks who created Normandy’s Mont St. Michel.

      The organ in the present chapel is circa 1791.  The castle houses period furniture and old maps. Lovely wooden floors are throughout, and the castle is bright inside because of its rather large windows, unusual for its day.

Close up of castle

Perched atop the rock outcropping

      After viewing the castle and having interesting conversations with a couple of the docents I made my way back to the bottom. Fortunately it did not rain, because if it had that cobblestone walkway would have been very slippery. I spent a fair amount of time walking through the large gardens surrounding the base of the castle. The gardens contained many unusual plants.

     A few medieval and Victorian buildings, as well as a small gift shop, are at the base of the island. 

     In the middle of the bay it was windy and cool. Otherwise it was a clear sunny day and it was a neat adventure.

BIRD’S EYE VIEW OF CORNWALL,ENGLAND

                      Picturesque Countryside
     Cornwall is a world of its own with spectacular landscapes and stunning rugged coastline. Hedgerows climb the hills defining and dividing the rolling green pastures. No place is Cornwall is more than 20 miles from the coast and the ocean.                 

    We often passed under natural green arches over the roads where the trees and vines on each side had grown across the road and entangled with those on the opposite side. Most roads in Cornwall are narrow two-lane roads, with one lane going in each direction. Some roads are no more than a one car lane and it got real interesting sometimes when we met a vehicle going in the opposite direction. It is easy to understand that people living in this part of the country would want only a small vehicle.    

    Cornwall is the land of legendary shipwrecks, with over 3000 recorded along the rugged coastline. In Charlestown, on a rainy afternoon, we visited the Shipwreck Museum. The museum was quite well done, with video narration of several famous shipwrecks. The museum was full of shipwreck relics.

    Prince Charles has an estate in Cornwall. The eldest royal son has been the Duke of Cornwall for ages.  If produce or a product is labeled duchy, it means the tax goes to the Duke's trust. Prince Charles’ trust makes loans/grants to small business enterprises.

   Mevagissey, a quaint small fishing village, has a history of smuggling. In fact smuggling was a common enterprise years ago all along the Cornwall coast. One evening we had fish and chips in the Fountain Inn, a 15^th century pub where even today the bar, oak beams, and slate floor are the original. The meaning of history certainly comes alive!  George Bernard Shaw wrote The Doctor’s Dilemma  in 1906 while living in Mevagissey.

Hedgerow up a fell

  Driving over the narrow country lanes was a delight. The hedgerow-lined meadows became part of panoramic views as the bushes and flowers along the roads thinned. Wild flowers were in bloom everywhere. Taking one wrong turn our van driver said, “You can’t get lost in Cornwall, you just take the wrong route.” Every once in awhile we’d find a small village or a thatched roof house, but we saw no tourists, buses or fast food restaurant. Ah the pleasures of a small or private group and a van!

Penzance is a seaside community with an ocean promenade that offered a delightful view of Mount’s Bay and St. Michael’s Mount.  In the 16^th century Spanish raiders destroyed most of the town, so most buildings were 18^th century.

     St. Ives has been known as an artist colony since the 1880s. Whistler came  to paint. Daphne de Maurier and Virginia Wolfe wrote here. I visited the Barbara Hepworth sculptor garden. I had a heck of a time finding it, but eventually did after asking several people for directions. Her sculpture was very modern, and it didn’t take me long to get through the garden. The harbor exported tin, wooden barrels, and fish, and imported coal for the mining industry. I did wander the beach area, but generally walked up and down the cobbled alleyways looking in shops. It is a delightful picturesque village. The streets are only lanes and the area is very hilly. A shuttle runs from the carpark down into the village. Coaches, and there were many of them, had to park in an area high above town. We also parked the van in the carpark and took advantage of the shuttle.

Previous post include: Cornwall in a Nutshell 3/10/13, Tin Mine 1/11, Cornwall surprises 7/12, Buckfast Abbey 5/13, Minach Theater 6/10/13 and Eden project 3/21/13