A COUPLE HONG KONG EXPERIENCES

                          Something Old and Something New

VICTORIA PEAK

I visited Victoria Peak the first time when I went to Hong Kong to join my husband for some R & R when his ship put into port there in 1970. We stayed on Hong Kong Island and one day took the tram to the top of the peak. The tram ascends the mountainside at a 45% angle, one of the steepest in the world, before stopping at the top, 2000 feet above the city. Opened in 1880, the sign inside one of the two cars noted: capacity 95 persons.  We exited the tram on the rocky top and had the most fantastic view of the harbor and city below. The air was clear and there was nothing there but a few other people and solitude, peace and quiet.

What a difference 35 years can make! On an extensive trip to China in 2004 I was looking forward to showing some friends the view from Victoria Peak once we arrived in Hong Kong. We stayed in Kowloon this trip as the hotels had been moved from the island. We took the ferry---it was still free—across to Hong Kong. We followed the tram signs and found the station with no problem. The tram was the same and the ride still a thrill. We exited it into a huge mall! High end stores were everywhere and crowds prevailed. It was so smoggy that we couldn’t see the harbor or city below. I wanted to cry! We looked around and then crossed the street to McDonalds where we sat on the patio and enjoyed some ice cream. While visiting with new friends we discussed our plans for the following day when we would be venturing out into the New Territories. The tram was full on both the up and down trips, and on our way down to street level I felt sad on what used to be.

NEW TERRITORIES

            I am usually the one to do the trip research and decide pretty much where we will go, do and see. But I had left Hong Kong a blank slate. My one-time roommate was a very timid traveler and decided after one subway stop that she was going to stay in the city. I joined three younger new friends who wanted to visit a walled city in the New Territories and I was excited to be able to join them.

            We left the hotel at 9:00 AM and started out on the subway after figuring out how to buy the tickets in the automatic machines. We boarded the right train going in the right direction and after 6-7 stops we transferred to another train after purchasing another ticket. At that point one of the gals discovered that I could travel for half fare since I was over 65. So from then on I pushed the right button and traveled for less. That was a nice bonus!  Exiting the subway we took a minute to get our bearings as there really wasn’t any real landmark and we would have to make our way back to the station.

      It was a pretty good but pleasant walk from the train station to the walled city we were in search of and were delighted to see the outer wall still standing. Walking around the perimeter we eventually came to the entrance where a pair of elderly ladies, in local colorful hats, made it clear that we needed to pay one Hong Kong dollar to enter the 800-year-old walled city.

A plaque on the wall outside the entrance stated, “All inhabitants of this walled village have the surname   Tang. Their ancestors moved from central and southern China during a period of unrest and populated the area 800 years ago. In the 13^th century shelter was given to the last of the ruling Sung dynasty and one Tang married an aunt of the Emperor.

“In 1898 when China leased the New Territories, this village was closed to British forces. The wrought iron gates to the only entrance were confiscated. In 1925 the gates were discovered in Ireland and were ceremonially returned as a goodwill gesture.

“Today the villagers cultivate the surrounding rice and vegetable fields. Their village walls and moat stand as an unspoiled example of a typical Cantonese community insulated against banditry prevalent 200 years ago.”

The gate was most unusual. Made of heavy iron chain-link, the entire gate was made without a break in the chain creating a very unique geometric pattern. In all of my museum travels I had never seen anything like it. It’s design is so delicate, yet heavy and durable. Inside we found modern three-story apartment buildings. We learned only a few old walls remain. The rest of the new modern three-story apartment buildings were separated by narrow paved walkways. Most apartments had left doors and windows open. We wandered around the inside village with nobody bothering us. We stopped often to admire and comment on something. As noontime approached the aromas of local cuisine permeated the entire village, and it made me realize I was beginning to get hungry.

Down one little alley one of us spied a family Buddhist shrine, and when she stuck her head in the doorway, the owner looked expectantly at her. She remarked to the kindly looking woman, “This is such a peaceful place. It’s lovely.”

At that Florence Tang invited everyone into her living room. She then explained that she had studied marketing in Scotland and England and had a passion for Buddhism. Her English was excellent and we enjoyed talking and visiting with her.

Eventually we left and walked back to the subway station. We found the subway extremely clean with no graffiti anywhere. Back in Kowloon the first business at hand was to find something to eat. We had had a wonderful adventure and learned a lot of new things. I thanked my friends for their research, curiosity, and for including me in their outing!

TRINIDAD, CUBA

                                             A Charming City

Trinidad (1514), in the lee of the Escambray, is maintained as a living museum, as it is pretty much as the Spanish left it. It seems as though time has stood and it was a bit surreal to feel like I was in a time warp.  Cuba’s crown jewel of its colonial cities reached its peak in the mid 19^th century during the sugar boom.

Ballast stones from sailing ships of days gone by pave the streets. These cobbled streets are paved with a slight V in the center. Logic says this would be for drainage, but legend says the first governor had one leg longer than the other. When he walked down the middle of the street he was level and was able to walk without a limp. The cobbled, narrow, slightly hilly streets are lined with pastel painted homes with tile roofs. Fancy wrought iron rails. decorated balconies. The entire city is a national monument, which disallows any architectural changes to buildings.

Situated on a low hill, the city catches the ocean breezes, and the doors of homes reflect that with postigos, small wooden louvered windows in the center of doors to allow the breezes to flow through.

We saw many mule-drawn two wheeled carts. A couple of us walked down a side street where some construction was going on, and the mule-carts were hauling sand. Vaqueros (cowboys) rode horseback in Plaza Mayor around the white iron fence that surrounded the small park in the center of the square. We even saw a fellow walking a pig on a leash. I suspect it was going to be someone’s dinner.

The soil is very red and a terra cotta pottery business is alive and well. At the museum we learned that the roof tiles were formed and rounded on the thigh of workers.

A mild climate, fertile soil, and easy access to the Caribbean favored Trinidad’s agricultural (sugar) and commercial growth. Plaza Mayor was the heart of the original settlement. It is ringed by a cathedral (1892) and four museums, once mansions of wealthy colonialists. Holy Trinity Church is the largest in the country and houses the most valuable icons. It took 200 craftsmen three years to carve the wooden altar (1812). Seven saints decorate the altar and St. Francis is 400 years old.

By the 19^th century Cienfuegos with a better harbor surpassed Trinidad, which started a slow steady decline for the city. In the 1950s Bastista declared the city a jewel and tourism started to be promoted. The town was named a national monument in 1965, and in 1988 named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Cameras were not allowed inside the Museo Romantico. The foyer was filled with plants and potted palms. The museum had a gorgeous carved cedar ceiling dating to 1770. The tall walls did not go all the way to the ceiling leaving an air space between the wall top and the arches of the rooms.  The upper level of the building was added in 1804. Italian marble floors were throughout. The spectacular wainscoting in the rooms was all hand painted. The detail was unbelievable. I have never seen such a stunning wrought-iron bed! I also was intrigued with the kitchen. Baccarat crystal chandeliers and Meisen porcelain were gorgeous. It was truly a treasure of exquisite antiques. 

The family had 12 children and 20 slaves, so basically 34 people lived in this gorgeous house.

We were led down a cobbled alley where we stopped in a courtyard to hear some music and enjoy another local drink, which I didn't get the name of. It was served in small clay pot/cups. We lunched at Eljigve, the oldest home in Trinidad (1614). I spied a palm I’d not seen before in the lovely courtyard of a small museum. The girl I talked to said it was a ciska palm.

Trinidad, Cuba is a fascinating quaint city which was a delight to visit.