Something Old and Something New
VICTORIA PEAK
I visited Victoria Peak the first
time when I went to Hong Kong to join my husband for some R & R when his
ship put into port there in 1970. We stayed on Hong Kong Island and one day
took the tram to the top of the peak. The
tram ascends the mountainside at a 45% angle, one of the steepest in the world,
before stopping at the top, 2000 feet above the city. Opened in 1880, the sign
inside one of the two cars noted: capacity 95 persons. We exited the tram on the rocky top and had
the most fantastic view of the harbor and city below. The air was clear and
there was nothing there but a few other people and solitude, peace and quiet.
What
a difference 35 years can make! On an extensive trip to China in 2004 I was
looking forward to showing some friends the view from Victoria Peak once we
arrived in Hong Kong. We stayed in Kowloon this trip as the hotels had been
moved from the island. We took the ferry---it was still free—across to Hong
Kong. We followed the tram signs and found the station with no problem. The
tram was the same and the ride still a thrill. We exited it into a huge mall!
High end stores were everywhere and crowds prevailed. It was so smoggy that we
couldn’t see the harbor or city below. I wanted to cry! We looked around and
then crossed the street to McDonalds where we sat on the patio and enjoyed some
ice cream. While visiting with new friends we discussed our plans for the
following day when we would be venturing out into the New Territories. The tram
was full on both the up and down trips, and on our way down to street level I
felt sad on what used to be.
NEW TERRITORIES
I am usually the one to do the trip
research and decide pretty much where we will go, do and see. But I had left
Hong Kong a blank slate. My one-time roommate was a very timid traveler and
decided after one subway stop that she was going to stay in the city. I joined
three younger new friends who wanted to visit a walled city in the New
Territories and I was excited to be able to join them.
We left the hotel at 9:00 AM and started
out on the subway after figuring out how to buy the tickets in the automatic
machines. We boarded the right train going in the right direction and after 6-7
stops we transferred to another train after purchasing another ticket. At that
point one of the gals discovered that I could travel for half fare since I was
over 65. So from then on I pushed the right button and traveled for less. That
was a nice bonus! Exiting the subway we
took a minute to get our bearings as there really wasn’t any real landmark and
we would have to make our way back to the station.
It was a pretty good but pleasant walk from
the train station to the walled city we were in search of and were delighted to
see the outer wall still standing. Walking around the perimeter we eventually
came to the entrance where a pair of elderly ladies, in local colorful hats,
made it clear that we needed to pay one Hong Kong dollar to enter the
800-year-old walled city.
A plaque on the wall outside the
entrance stated, “All inhabitants of this walled village
have the surname Tang. Their ancestors
moved from central and southern China during a period of unrest and populated
the area 800 years ago. In the 13th century shelter was given to the
last of the ruling Sung dynasty and one Tang married an aunt of the Emperor.
“In
1898 when China leased the New Territories, this village was closed to British
forces. The wrought iron gates to the only entrance were confiscated. In 1925
the gates were discovered in Ireland and were ceremonially returned as a
goodwill gesture.
“Today
the villagers cultivate the surrounding rice and vegetable fields. Their village
walls and moat stand as an unspoiled example of a typical Cantonese community
insulated against banditry prevalent 200 years ago.”
The
gate was most unusual. Made of heavy iron chain-link, the entire gate was made
without a break in the chain creating a very unique geometric pattern. In all
of my museum travels I had never seen anything like it. It’s design is so
delicate, yet heavy and durable. Inside we found modern three-story apartment
buildings. We learned only a few old walls remain. The rest of the new modern
three-story apartment buildings were separated by narrow paved walkways. Most
apartments had left doors and windows open. We wandered around the inside
village with nobody bothering us. We stopped often to admire and comment on
something. As noontime approached the aromas of local cuisine permeated the
entire village, and it made me realize I was beginning to get hungry.
Down
one little alley one of us spied a family Buddhist shrine, and when she stuck
her head in the doorway, the owner looked expectantly at her. She remarked to
the kindly looking woman, “This is such a peaceful place. It’s lovely.”
At
that Florence Tang invited everyone into her living room. She then explained
that she had studied marketing in Scotland and England and had a passion for
Buddhism. Her English was excellent and we enjoyed talking and visiting with her.
Eventually
we left and walked back to the subway station. We found the subway extremely
clean with no graffiti anywhere. Back in Kowloon the first business at hand was
to find something to eat. We had had a wonderful adventure and learned a lot of
new things. I thanked my friends for their research, curiosity, and for
including me in their outing!
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