BRUGES, BELGIUM

                                   Wonderful Ancient City 

Bruges is located in the old heart of Europe, between the triangle of London, Paris, and Amsterdam. Just for confusion’s sake Bruges is also spelled Brugge, although the computer likes the former spelling, the latter spelling is Flemish. Belgium is one of Europe's great secrets. Almost lost between Germany and France in the middle of Europe, tiny Belgium is easily overlooked. The city is pronounced a couple of different ways. BROO-ghah, is how the Flemish, who live in this part of Belgium, pronounce their town. The French half of the country, and English speakers, call it Bruges broozh. However you pronounce it, the name comes from the Viking word for "wharf." In other words---it's been a trading center for a long time.

            Our hotel couldn’t have been better located as we were only a 2-3 minute walk from The Burg, the heart of the city. Although a small country, Belgium has one of the highest population densities in Europe. An efficient rail and road network allows large numbers of people to move around the country each day. Bruges, with Renoir canals, graceful bridges, fairy-tale turrets overhead, fanciful gilded architecture, vivid time-tunnel art, cobbled streets and stay-awhile cafés, I believe is one of the best cities in Belgium. It is truly picturesque, quaint and lovely with a non-hurried more leisurely pace.

The  church bells ring every fifteen minutes and at times the bell ringer plays a concert. We were in the area for one such hour-long concert on a Sunday. Nice! After a while you just don’t give the bells a second thought.

Originally a ninth-century fortress was built to protect the Flemish coast from marauding Vikings. Bruges today retains its reputation as one of the best-preserved Old World cities on the continent. Its museums hold some of the oldest and finest collections found anywhere. Its narrow, winding, cobbled streets meander through the city along-side a centuries-old canal system. With nearly every street lined with historic buildings, the best way to see this one-time capitol of Western Flanders is on foot. And walk we did for days, always going in a different direction!

Archeologists have found evidence that Bruges was the site of a Roman fortress, or at least an outpost.  Defensive mounds can be seen around the city boundaries. Old maps show a wall surrounding the city and some of the eight gates remain. An ancient powder tower that was part of the Middle Ages defensive system is still in place. In the 12^th century, Bruges was the economic capital of Europe, and the 14^th century was the Golden Age for the city.

In the 15th century, while England and France were slogging it out in a 100 years-long war, Bruges was at peace and the favored residence of the powerful and sophisticated Dukes of Burgundy. Commerce and the arts boomed. The trade center was due to a thriving wool and textile trade. Wealthy textile merchants built beautiful homes. The city, known for its fine lace work, has a long lace history dating back to the 15^th century.

By the 16th century, the city’s harbor silted up, and trade moved to the port of Antwerp thus collapsing the economy and ending Bruges' Golden Age. The town slumbered for generations and then, in the 20th century, tourists discovered its charms.

The very first day we learned that a Boys’ Choir was performing at the English Church that evening. Having missed the Vienna Boys’ Choir every time I’ve been in Vienna I was anxious to attend this concert. We left a briefing session just as the stupid questions started and  headed directly to the nearby church which we had scouted out earlier in the day. Warwickshire County Choristers was made up of 120 boys, ages 8-14. The director had a good sense of humor and the boys seemed to be having a fun time. They were touring, so we were lucky to be in the right place at the right time. What a bonus!   

CHOCOLATE

                       Who Can Resist Chocolate?

Europe was introduced to cocoa beans in the late 16th century when Spanish explorers brought them back from what is now Mexico,  but they did not reach Belgium for another 100 years. The people of Bruges are connoisseurs of fine chocolate and buy their chocolates fresh daily, like other people buy pastries. Tempting chocolate-filled display windows are seen all over town. The average Belgian consumes over 15 pounds of chocolate annually!

Chocolate like fashion, wine and finance has become a complex cultural phenomenon. There is basic chocolate for the masses, artisanal chocolate for purists and avant-garde creations for connoisseurs.

Ever since the Brussels chocolatier, Jean Neuhaus, invented the praline 100 years ago, the city and country have been at the forefront of the chocolate business. Belgium is home to two of the biggest chocolate companies in the world-- Godiva and Leonidas, as well as hundreds of boutique chocolate-makers and haute chocolatiers. The melting point is just below that of the human body so the chocolate melts in the mouth!

One study showed that melting chocolate in your mouth produced increased brain activity and heart rate that was more intense than passionate kissing! It also lasted four times longer after the activity ended. What good rationale for eating chocolate—savoring it that is!

When King Leopold II colonized the African Congo (1885-1908), partly for the cocoa crops, the resulting genocide was a dark moment in the country’s history. In the late 1800s Belgian chocolate started earning its formidable reputation. It is hard to resist chocolate when viewing showcases full of caramel, marzipan, chocolate mousse, ganache and cream-filled pralines. Mary, a 92-year-old chocolatier is a favorite of the Belgian royal family. Mary makes small batches of chocolates to avoid storing, which causes loss of flavor. The by-product, cocoa butter, is used in Belgian chocolate as the makers refuse to supplement vegetable oils or shortening as is often done in other countries.

            Leaving one chocolate shop I turned to my friend saying, “Remember that museum in York, England when we lifted the answer boards to all those questions on chocolate?”

            “Oh, yes. Wasn’t that fun? Don’t I remember that we learned England was the largest consumer of chocolate in the world?”

            “Wasn’t that a surprise!  I remember it was an enormous amount of money spent hourly on chocolate, yet it is no way as well touted as it is here.”

            Walking around Bruges I swear there is a chocolatier on every block! We watched several at work and visited several chocolate shops.

            Finally I decided I’d done my share of supporting the Bruges economy!

LAKE MINNEWATER

                   Beguines and Lake Minnewater
 

            In 1488 the people of Bruges, Belgium executed one of the town administrators belonging to the court of Maximilian of Austria. Legend says Maximilian punished Bruges by obliging the population to keep swans on their lakes and canals for eternity. The swans are a lovely addition to Minnewater. Such a punishment!

            Minnewater is a lake at the southern end of the city. It wasn’t  far; I had a good walking map  so we took off in that direction. En route we had to stop to enjoy a famous Belgium waffle.

            Legend says that the lake was named after a girl named Minna. In Roman times two lovers were separated while the young warrior went off to war. Minna promised to wait for him, but during his long absence her father gave her in marriage to someone else. On the eve of her marriage Minna desperately ran away and hid in the woods.

            When the warrior returned he went looking for Minna, but when he found her she was exhausted and died in his arms. He built a dam in the creek near the tower, let the water drain out and buried Minna in the center. Then he broke the dam and again flooded the lake. Minna remains in the bottom of her beautiful lake.

            We missed the proper turn and entered the Beguinhof through the far gate.  The oldest remaining houses of the close date to the 15^th century. It has been a place of residence for women for 750 years!

            “What is a Beguine?” my friend asked.   

            I read what our information said: In the 12^th and 13^th centuries the crusades and other wars required that men take up arms and were often gone for long periods of time. Single women were in the majority but had little control over their lives. Women of some nobility could not marry outside their class and had little freedom or purpose in life, often with no chance of a decent livelihood.

            There were women who wanted to do good, help others but were restricted by the rules of society. About the beginning of the 13^th century some of them with common bonds and ideals grouped together and lived in cabins close to one another. This community was called a Beguinage.  These women were not nuns, took no vows, could return to city life and wed if she wished and did not have to give up her property.

            If she were poor, she could neither ask for nor accept alms, but could support herself by manual labor or teaching the children of the burghers—a citizen of the town, especially one of middle class. When first joining the community she lived with the Grand Mistress, but later had her own dwelling. Praying and mysticism were important aspects, but each Beguinage had its own rules, but no common ruler. There might be a meeting hall, chapel and assignments of certain duties.

            Beguines were influential in providing the populace with help and religious understanding that priests and ministers might not have been able to convey.

            The community was surrounded by a wall, and at night the gate was closed, and men were not allowed inside. The Grand Dame lived in the largest and most beautiful house. People generally like the Beguines, but it is a society of the past. Today they are part of the Catholic Church.

The Bruges Close

            From the gate it was only a few hundred yards to a gorgeous large courtyard filled with blooming daffodils and narcissus. Paths led one around the courtyard that also had many trees for shade. Walking toward the inner wall I was struck by all the clean sparkling windows. I don’t know why that attracted my attention but they just shone---maybe it was the sunshine.

            After awhile we entered the gift shop and talked to the lady inside who was one of the remaining 15 women living at this facility.

            She told us, “The Countess of Flanders, daughter of Count Baldwin, who conquered Constantinople, founded this close in 1245. In 1299 Philip the Beautiful placed the Beguinage under his rule, thus withdrawing it from magistrate influence. A fire in 1584 destroyed the chapel, but it was rebuilt in 1609 and later renovated in its present baroque architecture. In 1937 this became a monastery for Benedictine nuns.”

            It was a lovely quiet respite in the middle of a busy city. I was glad we had found it and learned something about a culture I never knew existed. There are several beguinages in Belgium, but this is the only one we had a chance to visit.

           

BELGIUM WAFFLES

                                                A Yummy Treat

            The waffle is a Belgian culinary specialty. Each part of the country has its own recipe, even if the main ingredients (flour, milk, sugar and eggs) are the same. The recipes are handed down from one generation to the next.  Brussels waffles are big, rectangular (circular in the US) very light and are always eaten warm with toppings.

have been around since the Middle Ages. Initially, made from a mix of barley and oats, they were sold as unleavened crisp cakes baked in a wafer iron. Waffle vendors were allowed to sell waffles outside of churches during special celebrations and on feast days of saints.

            Originally waffles were showcased in 1958 at Expo 58. Belgian waffles had their American   debut at the Century 21 Exposition in 1962 in Seattle,Washington. Waffles were further popularized in the United  States during the 1964 New York World's Fair. Maurice Vermersch, of Brussels, Belgium, introduced the waffle as Brussels waffles, but decided to change the name to Belgium waffles upon observing the poor geographical skills of Americans.

Nothing more needs to be said

      The Belgian waffle is identified by its larger size, lighter batter and higher grid pattern which form deep pockets creating larger squares than other waffles. In Belgium, there are several types of waffles, including the Brussels waffle, the Liege waffle   and the stroopwafel. What is known in North America as the "Belgian waffle" is most similar to the Brussels waffle. The Belgian waffle attributes its height to the use of a  yeast  batter instead of a pancake one.  In North America, they are often eaten as a breakfast  food, and are usually served with butter and syrup or with vanilla ice cream and fresh fruit, such as strawberries, as a dessert. In Belgium they are more commonly served as a snack or light dessert.

            Liege's waffles are sweet sugar snacks which can be eaten lukewarm all day long, without or with toppings. They are denser, chewier, sweeter, and richer than the Belgium waffle. They were made in the 18th century by the Chef of the Prince-Bishop of Liege. The Liege waffle was adapted from brioche bread dough. Surprisingly, Liege waffles are the most common type of waffles available in Belgium and come in three different flavors – plain, vanilla, and cinnamon.

            In Bruges people are seen walking along the street enjoying a waffle---more like we’d enjoy an ice cream cone. It seems we chose to indulge rather late in the day, and after walking for hours along the lovely city we elected to sit awhile to leisurely eat our waffle. I also really like the wafer-thin stroopwafel and managed to get a couple of packages home to share with friends.

ANCIENT RUINS

Old Roman Ruins

            After a late breakfast on our last day in Bruges, Belgium we headed out into the cold, windy, overcast day.

            Our first stop was less than a block away at the Crown Hotel. Located on the corner of the Burg, we’d heard there were visible ancient ruins in the hotel. We entered the lobby like we knew what we were doing and headed directly to a glassed wall pretty much opposite the entrance to see what might be behind. We glimpsed a couple of old stone pillars and then I suddenly heard English being spoken.

            With a quick check around the lobby we realized there was an English tour about ready to start. Quietly I said, “Let’s fall in behind those people and listen to what the fellow says and see what we can learn.”

            “It looks like an organized group.”

            “Just be quiet and see what happens. The worse they can do is ask us to leave.”

            We did, and were we lucky! Instead of just standing before the glass wall, the docent took the group down the stairs and after turning on some lights actually took us into the crypt and a large underground room of the old church of St. Donatius. The old foundation was beautifully built and pretty much complete.  The ruins were large and hidden switches bathed the area in light. It looked like meetings actually continue to take place in the basement of the hotel.

            Just before starting up the stairs we turned to the lady bringing up the rear, who at one time had looked at us suspiciously,  and thanked her for allowing us to tag along.

            From the Burg we ventured off with map in hand on a rather long walk to find the

Kempinski Hotel. For some reason this seemed a bit hidden and it took a bit of endurance to find it. We probably unknowingly took a circuitous route.

            Philip the Good built the initial estate in 1429 to celebrate his marriage to Isabelle of Portugal in 1430. Three days after the wedding celebrations Duke Philip founded the Prinsenhof in honor of his wife and to reward his loyal knights.

            When finished the estate was seven times its present size containing several buildings. The hotel now is owned by the Kempinski hotel chain that in 2003 restored this hotel to its previous splendor. The hotel is divided into two sections, the historic castle and the new part.  

            When I had seen the hotel in some travel literature I thought it would be fun to stay here, but it was no way as centrally located as our hotel, which was truly lovely. However, my curiosity had been satisfied and it was fun to speculate on centuries long gone!