INTERESTING FOOD AND DRINK

                     Rivella, Fondue, Reclette, Flemish Stew,
            On a recent trip to Switzerland I was introduced to Rivella a Swiss soft drink. Yellow in color, it is clear with a small fizz. It tastes similar to ginger ale but still a bit different. It is made from 35% milk serum, sucrose, caramel and is carbonated. It is an interesting drink. Our Swiss guide told us her dad made her drink it because it was made from milk. After telling friends at home about it and much discussion we decided that since the drink is clear and in no way resembles milk that the ‘milk serum’ is the whey. It was refreshing, but I found it nowhere else nor on any previous trips.

            In Switzerland we found small chunks of coiled potato in the macaroni and cheese. It was good but just a surprise. It seemed the mac and cheese was always served with applesauce.

            Ah the wonderful fondue in Switzerland! At a fondue making party it was a surprise to learn that grated ‘fondue’ cheese was melted in a pot of white wine that finely chopped shallots had been simmering in. I can’t tell you what kind of cheese ‘fondue’ cheese is because I don’t have a clue. I was just following directions to keep stirring. Fondue forks are long handled with two small long tines to grasp the bite-size bread chunks for dipping in the fondue.  Some say if you lose the bread in the fondue you have to kiss the cook.

            Another new Swiss dish on this recent trip was Reclette. In Geneva friends from Wisconsin wanted to introduce us to this new dish, which they make occasionally at home.  Reclette is a special cheese called reclette that is melted and then scraped into a dish and served with cooked but firm small potatoes, gherkins and pickled onions. In Geneva we found a restaurant that served it so we had a chance to try it. It was interesting, but I favor the fondue! 

            One of the best parts of winter for me is meal of nice thick homemade stew or soup. Having Flemish stew in Belgium was a surprise. Our first waiter informed us the stew was good because it was made the real Flemish way. He was right, it was extremely good, but it sure was a surprise when it arrived. I have a hard time with the terminology as stew to me includes lots of veggies and usually potato chunks. Flemish stew is just like the fricassee beef my mother used to make. It is fork tender chunks of beef in gravy. Flemish stew is simmered in liquor---I don’t know if there is a specific kind of liquor, I’m guessing a good whiskey. There was nothing in the stew but the meat. It was served with fries---like everything in Belgium is---and applesauce. I fricasseed meat often when my children were at home, but I never called it stew. It was just the meat dish. After the shock wore off in Belgium I enjoyed the ‘stew’ several times. However, the first in Bruges, just off the main square, was without a doubt the best.

GHENT'S SITES

                                       A Lovely Ancient City

Ghent is an old city in Belgium, not the fellow who holds a door open for you. It is a lovely ancient city with much to see so I shall endeavor to tell you some of the highlights.

Cloth Hall Tower

The Cloth Hall (Lakenhalle) is a gorgeous 14^th century building. All cloth made within a mile of the boundaries of the town had to be brought to the cloth hall. Here, the textile was inspected and measured by three inspectors. The construction of the hall started in 1425 and by 1441, only 7 of the 11 planned bays had been completed.  Since the cloth trade was past its peak, it was useless to finish the building, so all work stopped, but the incomplete cloth hall served other purposes. Since 1613, the municipal fencing-school and the militia guild of Saint-Michael were installed on the first and second floor. From 1742 to 1902, the crypt served as the town jail. The remaining 4 bays were not added until 1903. Old 14^th and 15^th century textile warehouses line many of the canals.

The 91-metre-high belfry of Ghent is one of three medieval towers that overlook the old city center. Through the centuries, it has served not only as a bell tower to announce the time, but also as a fortified watchtower to announce various warnings to the town. The other two towers belong to Bavo Cathedral and St Nicholas Church.

Construction of the belfry tower began in 1313 and continued intermittently through wars, plagues and political turmoil and finally was completed in 1380. Near the end of this period the gilded dragon, brought from Bruges, assumed its place atop the tower. The uppermost parts of the building have been

rebuilt several times, in part to accommodate the growing number of bells. The primary bell in the tower, Roland, was the one used by citizens to warn of an enemy approaching or a battle won. Roland has become almost a person to the people of Belgium. He is a patriot, a hero, and a leader in all rebellion against unrighteous authority. After conquering Belgium, Charles V ordered the removal of Roland. Henry Wadsworth Longfellow referred to Roland in one of his poems.

A small annex dating from 1741, called the Mammelokker, served as the entrance and guard's quarters of the city jail that occupied part of the old cloth hall from 1742 to 1902. The name refers to the sculpture of Roman Charity poised high above the front doorway. It depicts the Roman legend of a prisoner, Cimon, who was sentenced to death by starvation, but survived thanks to his daughter Pero, a wet nurse who secretly breastfed him during her visits. Ultimately he gained his freedom

A Ghent city view

Saint Bavo Cathedral is the seat of the diocese of Ghent. The building is based upon the Chapel of St. John the Baptist. The primarily wooden structure was consecrated in 942. Traces of this original structure are evident in the cathedral's crypt. The chapel was expanded in Romanesque-style in 1038. Some traces of this phase are also evident in the crypt.  During the 14th - 16th centuries, Gothic-style expansion projects were added to the structure. A new choir, radiating chapels, expansions of the transepts, a Chapterhouse, nave aisles and a single tower western section were all added during this period, and construction was considered complete in 1569.

            In 1539, during the rebellion against Charles V, the old Abbey of St. Bavo was dissolved. Its abbot and monks became canons in a Chapter attached to what became the Church of Saint Bavo. In 1559, the church became a cathedral.

The cathedral is noted for its altarpiece, formally known as: The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. This work is considered Van Eyck's masterpiece and one of the most important works of the early Northern Renaissance, as well as one of the greatest artistic masterpieces in Belgium. Several of the paintings were sold and went to Germany. Germans stole other panels. The Versailles Treaty required Germany to return the pilfered panels as well as the ones that had been sold.

The cathedral is huge. Lovely stain glass windows, many pieces of statuary and art as well as lots of fresh flowers made for a very pleasing experience. We stopped for some time to listen to a fellow playing the harp.

When done in the church we went across the street to see part of the ancient city wall which is below street level and now houses a small store. The wall parts were in good condition and well built.

The Town Hall in Gent is called Stadhuis in Flemish and Hotel de Ville in French. It is one of the most breath taking buildings in Ghent. A portion of the building has an ornate Gothic design while another portion, on Botermarkt Square, is built in  Renaissance style.

Ghent is a lovely city and demands a good amount of time to visit. It is very walkable. It would be worth hiring a good docent to learn much of the city’s history.

GHENT, BELGIUM

                                              A Really Old City 

            Ghent is also spelled Gent. Ghent is a Celtic word meaning confluence of two rivers. We met our local guide at St. James Church which is made of limestone and dates to the 1200s. Before 1400, stone was imported.

      Ghent is a charming Flemish city where winters are mild and the streets aren't overrun with tourists. Belgium’s fourth largest city is one of the country’s oldest. City PR information says: Ghent is often over-shadowed by Bruges and Antwerp, but it actually combines the best elements of both its brasher neighbors  with more historic sites than Antwerp, and better eating and drinking options than Bruges. We didn’t really agree with this statement as we loved Bruges and certainly did not find it brash!

Known as the Jewel of Flanders, the city has a rich history with many medieval and renaissance buildings. From the 11^th century the city reigned as the textile capitol of the world and  was more populous and wealthier than London for several centuries.

            Under Spanish rule the people rebelled against Charles V protesting against taxes. He punished the city by making the nobles parade in front of him wearing a noose, called a stroppendrager, around their necks. 

The city's medieval core is cradled within a loop of the River Leie, which surrounds old town like a moat. The restored area is made for strolling and biking. To the north is Patershol where many of Ghent's best restaurants are located. To the south is the Kunstenkwartier, the cultural quarter and congregating area for most of Ghent's 50,000 college students. The hub of this area is the Boekentoren, the stark art deco tower of the university library. To the east, the red light district around Brabantdam has been renovated, now containing some stylish bars and cafés, though it's still a bit seedy after dark.

Ghent has managed to preserve its medieval power while keeping up with the times. The city center alone is a showcase of medieval Flemish wealth and commercial success. Modern Ghent certainly cannot be overlooked. The city has an important harbor, thanks to the Ghent-Terneuzen canal which allows sea-going vessels to bring their products to the city and its industrial hinterland.

The city has many small squares and two large ones. Southern French monks arrived in the 600s and were the source of the written word.

The Romanesque architecture is 1000 years old. The political center is at a large 1000-year-old square where Friday markets were and still are held. There was a large statue in the center of the square which  is surrounded by guild houses.

Ghent is also the flower city of Belgium. Flower growers from the region around Ghent sell beautiful begonias and azaleas all over the world.

The best views across the city are from the battlements of Gravensteen at Sint-Veerleplein. Built in 1180, this knights-in-armor castle has been used as a mint, cotton mill, courthouse and jail. Restored in the 19th century, its museum, chronicles the city’s checkered past, and even has a gruesome torture chamber. The counts of Flanders wielded their power from Ghent's 12th-century castle in the centre of town. Rising up out of the water, its square-cut towers and ramparts are the makings of storybooks.

ANTWERP, BELGIUM

                                            City Highlights
         Legend says that Antwerp comes from the Dutch "hand werpen" meaning "hand thrown". The story has it that a mean and nasty giant controlled the river traffic, demanding exorbitant tolls. Those who refused to pay had one hand cut off.  But one day, a young and brave Roman soldier named Silvius Brabo managed to kill the giant. He cut the giant's hand off and threw it in the Scheldt River, giving the city its name. Legends are fun but the name more probably comes from the word ‘aanwerp’ (alluvial mound’), which describes the first settlement's geographical feature. 

The Scheldt River, about 50-feet deep, is a tidal river that connects to the North Sea. The modern city is on one side of the river and the historic ancient city  on the other side. No bridges cross the river. Centuries ago the enemy was on the other side and why would you want to give them easy access? Then the French and German empires came along. As the city grew ferries came into service and as the boat and ship traffic grew bridges would have to be very high to accommodate them. In 1933 the first tunnel was built under the river. Later bike and pedestrian tunnels were built. The tunnels are 100-feet below the river.

Antwerp was inhabited as far back as Gallo-Roman times. The first fortification was built in the 7th century, but was destroyed by the Vikings in the 9th century.   In the 10th century, Antwerp became a margraviate (a border province) of the Holy Roman Empire---the Scheldt River marked the border with the County of Flanders, which belonged to the Kingdom of France.

 The city was annexed to the Duchy of Brabant, and by the mid-14th century its seaport and wool market made it Western Europe's leading center for trade and finance. In 1356 Antwerp became part of the County of Flanders and lost many of its privileges to Bruges benefit.  However, in the 15th century, Antwerp's economy boomed again turning it into a world-class metropolis.

The port of Antwerp is the most inland seaport and the second largest port in Europe, after Rotterdam. Belgian exports transit through the Flemish city. Antwerp is also the world's second petrochemical port, after Houston, Texas. Half of the world's top 20 chemical companies have offices in Antwerp.

The city received much damage during both WW I and II, but today remains a city with historical architecture dating back to the 16^th century. In 1993, Antwerp was nominated Cultural Capital of Europe. In 1920, Antwerp hosted the sixth Summer Olympic Games.

The city has been a bastion of Flemish nationalism for decades. Like Amsterdam, Antwerp is one of the world’s diamond trading centers. About 85% of the world's rough diamonds and half of the polished diamonds are negotiated in the city.

            The castle is known as the Steen, literally meaning stone, so called because when it was built in 1200-1235 most buildings were made of wood.   Charles V revamped the castle in 1520.  The statue in front of the castle gate was once endowed as a conspicuous virile male, but the prude 17th century Jesuits altered the statue to reflect their liking.

            Old Town was built around the Town Square (Grote Markt) as was the  common practice at that time. The magnificent Guild houses are richly decorated with golden statues, The Stadhuis (town hall) completed in 1564 was built in Renaissance style, with a touch of Flemish Gothic to blend  with the surrounding buildings.   In the middle of the square stands an 1887 statue of Brabo, the legendary slayer of the giant.  The water in the fountain is recycled but not drinkable.

We walked through an alley to see the old meat market and some new city housing as well as part of the old city wall.

The busiest shopping street in Antwerp is known as the 'Meir'. In 1531, a New Stock Exchange was built on the Meir and was the first building in the world designed as a stock and a trade exchange. After an 1858 fire it was reconstructed in Neo-Gothic style. Lined with historic buildings, but at the western end of the Meir is the Art-Deco tower building (Torengebouw), which was Europe's first skyscraper when completed in 1932. It just seems so out of place among all the ancient buildings. Screening covers statuary on the building façades to protect them from pigeons.

The 17^th century artist Peter Paul Rubens lived in Antwerp from 1616 to 1640 in a Renaissance-Baroque house and. painted most of his masterpieces here. He received his guests and patrons at his home in the heart of the city. Subsequent occupants altered the home, but it was restored to its original state after the City of Antwerp purchased it in 1937.

The Gothic Cathedral of Our Lady with its impressive 134-foot high tower dominates the square. It is the highest tower in the low lands. A chapel has existed at the location of the cathedral since the 12th century, and the current structure was built between 1352 to 1481.  Most of the original furniture was destroyed or plundered by the Spaniards or the French, The church contains two Rubens paintings: The Descent from the Cross’ and the Elevation of the Cross.  Contrary to most churches in Belgium, or Europe, this cathedral charges an admission fee.

We received a detailed pamphlet telling us about all the paintings. Several other artists’ works were also displayed. The museum was closed and under renovation so many painting had been moved to the church. The church had lovely brilliant stained glass windows on one side only.  A modern stained glass piece was over the door leading to the gift shop.

Antwerp is an easy city to walk and our city tour was a long and interesting one.

FLANDERS FIELD, BELGIUM

                                 Flanders Field 
This seems like an appropriate time for this post in memory of all our veterans.

            Flanders Field is located in the medieval County of Flanders, which spans southern Belgium and north-west France.

            We were met on arrival by the American manager of the cemetery who told us, “The agency that maintains 24 cemeteries is called the American Battles Monument Commission and is an independent agency falling under the executive branch. General Pershing was the first executor of the organization.”

            While in the warm building he continued, “The crosses are made of Italian white marble. There are two Jewish Unknown Soldier markers in the cemetery. Nine days after Lindberg’s solo flight, he flew over the cemetery and dropped a bouquet of red poppies. The occupants of this cemetery were the first and last to act under foreign command—Belgium. There are no women buried here.” The first Memorial Day was in 1924.

            Of course during WW I no women served in the armed forces.          A crew of four maintains the cemetery. All the stones are washed first thing each week day with water and a soft brush. When a family member visits, the stone is dampened and engravings filled with Normandy sand. This gives a golden glow to the engravings and makes them stand out in photographs.

Battlefield

            The German military used poison gas for the first time on the Western Front which saw the beginning of ‘trench warfare’ that characterized this global war. The Battle of Passchendaele (third battle) ended when British, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand forces recaptured the Passchendaele ridge, east of the city but at tremendous loss. During three months of fighting

over 750,000 men lost their lives.     The American Cemetery and Memorial is the only American World War I cemetery in Belgium and is the smallest American cemetery in Europe. There are 368 American servicemen who died in Belgium buried or commemorated  here. The cemetery occupies a six acre site, and as with all Allied war cemeteries, the land was provided in perpetuity by the Belgian government.

The headstones are aligned in four symmetrical areas around the white stone chapel that stands in the center of the cemetery. The altar inside the chapel is made of black and white Grand Antique marble with draped flags on each side. A crusader's sword outlined in gold is above the altar. The chapel furniture is carved oak, stained black with white veining to harmonize with the altar. The side walls of the chapel are inscribed with the names of 43 missing American servicemen who have no known graves. The small chapel has a gorgeous ceiling.

Masses of graceful trees and shrubbery frame the burial area and screen it from passing traffic. At the ends of the paths leading to three corners of the cemetery are circular retreats, with benches and urns.         

During WW I, Canadian physician, Lt. Colonel John McCrae, is believed to have written this famous poem in May 1915 after witnessing the death the day before of his 22-year-old friend, Lieutenant Alexis Helmer.  The poppies referred to grew in profusion in Flanders in the disturbed earth of battlefields and cemeteries and thus became a symbol of Memorial Day, November 11, when WW I ended on the 11^th  day of the 11^th month at 11 AM.

            In Flanders fields the poppies blow
             Between the crosses, row on row,
             That mark our place; and in the sky
             The larks, still bravely singing, fly
             Scarce heard amid the guns below.

            We are the Dead. Short days ago
            We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
               Loved and were loved, and now we lie,
             In Flanders fields.

            Take up our quarrel with the foe:
            To you from failing hands we throw
             The torch; be yours to hold it high.
               If ye break faith with us who die
            We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
                          In Flanders fields

Needless to say this was a somber but memorable visit. The American manager was kind, helpful and answered all of our questions.