QUITO, ECUADOR
I made my first visit to Ecuador in 1993.
Then 23 years later I decided to take my granddaughters and their mother to
experience the Galapagos Islands, but I wanted them to experience Colonial
capitol Quito first. I hired a guide and driver for the Quito visit as I wanted
to see as much of the city in a weekend as possible. The altitude of 9,350-feet
slowed out pace a wee bit but not to any extreme.
Quito’s historic center is one of the best
preserved in the Americas. Most of the 8 active volcanos can be seen from most
parts of the city. Spaniards constructed lovely colonial architecture over the
charred remains of an Inca city. But
just north of Old Town towering concrete and glass structures show off modern
business and tourists centers of the city. Quito’s unmistakable Old Town, covers over 790 acres and is hilly. The area was
designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in 1978, Quito has taken great pride in restoring its colonial
buildings and sprucing up its public spaces to ensure that both locals and
visitors continue to breathe life into Old Town.
Our guide was great about rearranging our
itinerary to avoid crowds. The Equatorial Monument is about 20 Kilometers out
of the city. As we headed to lower altitudes in this short distance there was a
remarkable change in climate and tropical plant life was flowering and healthy.
Here I found some additions to the well-known
area. Although one can still straddle both hemispheres at the same time near the
lovely museum these have taken a back seat to the new Mitad del Mundo, Middle of
the World. Although the equator runs
through many cities in the world, Quito has become famous for it. The
equator was discovered and mapped in 1736 by a French geodesic expedition. This
extraordinary feat at that time did end being off by about 250 meters. This
site gave the girls an excellent overview of Ecuador and the views were
spectacular. We all learned a lot and the girls had great fun participating in many experiments as we
visited the site. We were all fascinated by the story of how a shrunken head is made! The girls
protested the use of guinea pigs in ceremonies and the eating of them. They were stymied how magnetism will not allow
anyone to walk heel to toe at the equator; they tried hard to prove it wasn’t
so.
After spending much of the morning here I
asked our driver to stop at the tower monument so the girls could see where their
uncle and I had spent some time years ago.
Back in town at Independence Square it was a surprise to walk into a lovely old
mansion for a leisurely local lunch at Casa
Gangotena. Our guide joined us and
was able to translate and describe the menu for us, as the coat-clad waiter
didn’t speak English. Lunch included soup, entre, juice and desert. Somehow
salad was also included but not listed on the menu..
We started with a long divided dish of a
half dozen salsas. Each was good and I was intrigued with the beet salsa. We
all tried hard to not dribble salsa on the crisp white linen tablecloth.
All but one of us ordered the pork. The
boneless chop had been pounded very thin until it was the size of an open hand,
It appeared to have been grilled and the
orange sauce was on the plate I took as a marinade. It was different but very
good. A roasted bean about the size and shape of a lima bean is a poplar food
item and they were on the plate with halved small quarter-sized roasted potatoes
and a salad. Also on the plate was a white popcorn-like corn kernel which
reminded us of hominy—very bland. The meal ended with a guava-like ice cream
frozen desert,
After a delicious lunch it was time to get
out and walk for some exercise.
Seven
churches surround or near the square give it its name. The Centro Historico hosts a diverse and rich colonial history with
beautiful plazas, churches, museums and pedestrian walkways. I am not going to dwell on the many large,
beautiful plazas, nor on the many churches, We entered many, learned history
about each and the notable effects of each were pointed out to us. If you are
really interested in the differences of the churches and squares just google Quito’s churches and
you’ll find all the info you want. After threeish hours we were all churched
and plazaed out. It was a very warm day and it was time for something to drink
and some ice cream!.
After some discussion and learning the
market closed at 5PM---give or take---we asked the driver to drop us off there
before it closed. I knew the market was only
a very short walk from our hotel.
As it turned out that was a good choice, as it turned out to be the only time we
had to do any shopping.
After staggering back to the hotel we dropped our purchases and while resting
discussed the day. Later at the hotel restaurant we indulged in some of the
city’s famous soups. We all tried a different one and no one was disappointed.
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