When we reached the Medoc area in
France we encountered rolling hills, most of which were no problem for the
majority of us. There are 8000 grape growers in the Medoc. Grapes from the
northern part are good for table and country wines while finer wines are made
from grapes grown in southern areas.
A grape grower’s home is called a
chateau. Many are small, some are castle-like but most are modest and in between. We stopped at one 5-star
chateau and our guide stopped and talked the vintner into giving us a tour of
his facility. Afterward we biked on to Chateau Mouton Rothschild to tour their
facility which sits 14 meters above sea level. From the 50 hectares of planted
vineyards they bottle 250,000 bottles of wine a year. Of the three Rothschild
facilities this one bottles the finest wines. The temperature controlled
underground cellar is 100-feet long. The aging rooms were so clean you could
have eaten off the floor! The chateau
employs 600-700 people to hand pick the grapes during a 3-10 day harvesting
period.
Philip Rothschild bought the
facility in 1922. It was in a bit of disrepair but in 1924 he decided to bottle
his wine at the facility which at the time was unheard of, as growers sent
their wine to a wine merchant for bottling. The bottling process takes three
weeks. These wines became premier in 1973 and have remained so.
We had a long lecture one morning
before starting to bike. The French talk about terroir for which there is no English translation, but it includes
soil, slope and exposure. The soil of the Medoc is rocky. And Medoc means between waters and refers to the Atlantic Ocean and the Gironde River. In the 1700s
the area was swampy and in the pockets of gravel is where the wine industry started.
Vine roots can reach down 30-feet. The stones hold the heat of the day and
draws water up from the depth in the coolness of the night. The vineyards do
not irrigate; the grapes are totally dependent on nature. Grape vines can live
100 years but are usually pulled after 50 years. The quality does not diminish
with age but the number of grape clusters diminish.
Wine grapes are not good eating
grapes and vice versa. Fermentation makes the difference between wine and grape
juice. Yeast which is always in the air, clings to the grape skins and goes
into the vats with the juice. The yeast feeds on natural sugar producing CO2
and alcohol. The fermentation process takes 3-5 days. The alcohol level finally
gets so high it kills the yeast. The left over sugar determines the fruitiness
of the wine. The yeast content determines the temperature in the vat and both
are monitored carefully.
After the first fermentation the
juice and skins are removed to another fat for 2-3 weeks. The date on the
bottle of wine is the year the grapes were grown not the year it was bottled.
Bordeaux has 57 sub-regions and the
Medoc is only one of them. Then the Medoc is divided into two sub-regions—the
high and the low or the up river and down river. Then there are sections to the
sub-regions. And that is what is listed on the bottle label. Cru means growth. The Medoc vineyards
cover 45,000 acres and bottles 92,000,000 bottles of wine annually.
Although the lecture was long, he
was a most interesting speaker and I learned a lot. This is but a synopsis, but
probably all you ever wanted to know about wine.
It was a gorgeous warm, sunny day
for biking. The next day we biked on to Paulliac where we surrendered our
bikes, which is always an emotional time. Paulliac is only a short way from
Bordeaux.
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