Wednesday, December 9, 2015

BORDEAUX, FRANCE

                                             A City Full of History

            While we were biking Bordeaux, France the Air France pilots went on strike. My pot-luck roommate couldn’t let go of it and talked incessantly about how she was going to get home. Finally I’d had enough and simply told her I did not want to hear any more about it, as there was absolutely nothing we could do until we actually reached Bordeaux.
            Our Bordeaux hotel was located on a very narrow street in the heart of the old city and nothing bigger than a small car could get down the street. We were let out at the end of the block. Our guide hustled to the hotel for the luggage cart and took care of that chore. The small old hotel had been renovated and updated and turned out to be quaint and most comfortable to say nothing of being very well located.
            After we settled into the reception area we learned we all had been rerouted home on other airlines. My flight times were a mere 15-minutes off from my original schedule. A bit later our local city docent arrived. The very flamboyant little French fellow spoke English with a marked accent. I’ll never forget the picture of him flitting into the street, frantically waving for all traffic to stop, and yelling, “hurry, hurry” to us. He knew his city and its history well and walked us all over it for over three hours!
            We learned the city was a walled one until the 1800s when the walls were torn down and the ditches
One of remaining gates to city
filled in. Several ports to the city remain; we walked through a couple of them plus one in the pedestrian mall on the way back to the hotel. Bordeaux is the capitol of the Aquitaine region. The name means port of the moon. The Gironde River is moon shaped in this area, thus the city’s name. In 1453 it was the last area to become French again after the Roman Empire.
            Ten years ago the population was over 650,000.  The huge Statue of Freedom  is full of symbolism and one of the city’s landmarks. A statue atop a 43-meter high column represents Freedom breaking out of his shackles. At the base is a large ornate fountain cast in bronze.  In the fountain are horses and falling soldiers The docent went on for some time about the battles between two factions. In this large square there are a couple of other statues. I wish I could tell you more about, but between being tired, the docent’s accent and my disinterest in local conflicts, my notes are pretty scanty.
            Needless to say there are several well known churches in the city. We poked our head in one of them and the thing I remember most was the straight back chairs instead of pews that I suspect were anything but comfortable.
            It was in Bordeaux that we discovered France shuts down about 2:30 in the afternoon as all the restaurants and cafés close. It was quite an adventure walking up several alleyways to find a sidewalk café still open. Although the one we found was ready to close they did accommodate four of us ladies for lunch. We had an excellent leisurely meal. It was kind of management not to rush us on our last day in France. We gratefully tipped them well. Their kindness made our day.

An aside re: dogs.
            It seems everyone in France owns a dog, often a small one, and they go everywhere! It is strange for an American to see dogs in a store, market or restaurant. I was shocked at how well behaved they were; even when not on a leash the dog stuck close to his owner. I never heard a dog bark, except in the country when one might bark from his backyard as we biked by. However, they do drop their business anywhere and everywhere so it is wise to watch where one steps when walking the alleyways. The French wouldn’t think of carrying a plastic bag, never mind a super, duper, pooper scooper! 

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