OAXACA, MEXICO

                                 Oaxaca  (wah ha kah)

       My travel buddy and I visited Oaxaca on our own staying in a delightful B & B. Exiting the new small airport nine miles south of the city we answered a call for taxi. However, our $3 per person put us in a collectivo. Collectivos are SUVs and a popular alternative to taxis to get from the airport into the city and your hotel.

     Even without transportation we got around the environs and out into the countryside. It is easy to rent a cab for the day or part of one. Nearly every day our host at the B & B offered an excursion out into the surrounding territory as an option. We took the opportunity several times. Usually an additional 2-3 people joined us. We saw a lot and learned a great deal.

       The biggest hazard in the city is walking the often uneven pavements and watching for obstructions. The street gutters are deep and wide. Most streets are one way. Street corners have only one traffic light and it is a guess where it is located. Out of the city the traffic is controlled by speed bumps and their frequency made them a real pain in the neck. South of the zocalo is definitely the poorer part of town but is perfectly safe during the day. We were warned about pickpockets in the busy crowded Juarez Market.

      The people are short and small in stature. Everyone was friendly. People seemed happy, smiled a lot and had beautiful straight white teeth.

     Fireworks are apparently common as we heard them often the first three days as someone obviously was celebrating something.

      Bottled water is a must, and food was wonderful. We ate at a different restaurant each noon and evening and had absolutely delicious meals. We both were quite taken with the local cuisine. This is  mole (mo lay), country, so I had a wonderful introduction to moles. Known as the land of seven moles the colorful sauces known in the area rich for culinary and historical traditions increased pleasant dining events. There is no fast food in the inner city. On the way to the airport we passed a large mall anchored by Sears with a McDonalds next door. One day riding out of town I did spot a Burger King and a KFC. I hope the city can keep a lid on fast food so all can enjoy the wonderful local food.

     Lovely courtyards hide behind simple doors. The city is clean. Toilets were clean and restrooms well stocked with supplies—a pleasant surprise!

     Oaxaca, founded in 1529 has been a UNESCO site since 1987. Located 300 miles southeast of Mexico City, it is the capital of the state of Oaxaca. The city of 300,000, sprawls across a grand expanse of a deep valley standing 5200 feet above sea level.

     Large quiet Juarez Park is not far from the old aqueduct or far from a huge market. At the market I found some commercially packaged and sealed chapulines (fried grasshoppers).  I knew I could get them home whereas loose ones from the huge basket full would not make it through agriculture on return. These little critters are often found on restaurant tables like peanuts and the locals eat them as if they were. We agreed they tasted kind of lemony and salty. I had a lot of fun on return letting people try them, and then there were people with no gastronomic adventure who absolutely turned up their nose and wouldn’t even touch them. Their problem, not mine!

    The city is flat and very walkable and accessible. Oaxaca’s main square, officially called the Plaza de la Constitucion, but commonly referred to as the zocalo, is the heart of the city. The tree-filled plaza has numerous cafés/restaurants. Balloon vendors, musicians, locals, and tourists of all ages congregate in the lively plaza. In the evenings one can enjoy concerts by the Oaxaca state band, mariachi or marimba music or performances from touring musicians. We seemed to find our way sometime each day to the zocalo. We ate in various restaurants there during the week.

    The huge Mercado Juarez covers a full square block. Food stalls selling everything imaginable occupy probably a little more than half the market. The rest of the market impressed me more as a flea-type market with very little craft items.

    Mescal tastings are available everywhere. We elected not to stop along the road for a tasting, nor did we stop at any store for one. We experienced Mescal in Tule. My take on it is that it tastes like gasoline. Everyone said it is an acquired taste but one I did not care to cultivate.

    Mescal is the most genuine alcoholic beverage in the State of Oaxaca. It is made from the Agave cactus, which grows in the semi arid soil of the area. The best Mescal is aged for twelve years. It is served with lemon and worm salt. One dips the lemon is the worm salt, sucks it and then sips the mescal. The worm that grows at the Maguey root is fried before being added to a bottle of Mescal lending a distinctive aroma and flavor.