ISLAS FLOTANTES

                   Floaring Islands of Peru 

The major attraction in Puno, Peru is the Uros people and their Floating Islands. Even though it is a bit over commercialized, it is popular because it is different from anything else in the world. The floating islands are 5-15 miles off shore. 

Because of intermarriage with Aymara-speaking Indians, there are no pure blooded Uros left. The original language is lost and they now speak Aymara. Always a small tribe, the Uros began their unusual floating existence centuries ago when they desired to isolate themselves from the Collas and Incas. There are only 160 people living on the islands today, with 1600 more living in Puno. The attractions of shore life beckon to the young.

Heavy rains years ago caused some arthritic-like problems among the Uros people. Today they arrive on their floating islands early morning with their wares and leave for Puno about 4:00 PM. It is a very commercial venture now, but a very different life style. Only 3-4 people actually stay on the islands at night. Living on a floating island has its advantages. When the family gets too large or if there are disagreements in a village, a section of the island is sawed off and it floats away.  Thus, the number of islands varies, but there are generally between 40 and 50 at any given time. The blue of the lake waters contrasted vividly with the golden color of the reeds.

The lives of the Uros are totally interwoven with the totora reeds growing in the shallow waters of Lake Titicaca. The floating islands are made of many layers of reeds. As the reeds on the bottom rot, new reeds are added to the top layer, so the islands are a bit soft and spongy.  It was a strange feeling to walk on the islands which I liken to walking on a water-bed. The biggest of the islands contains several buildings including a school. Another island had a small one-room museum.

   The totora reeds are also used to build canoe–type boats. These boats will last a family about six months for transportation and fishing. We rode in one of these boats from one island to another. Much like a canoe, we all sat very still during the passage, as the water was cold and none of us wanted to land in it. I’m sure the boats are more stable than we thought. These boats have been built since 1445 and are really an art form.

The reeds have many uses on the islands. Besides the skillfully woven boats, they are the main building material for the homes. Even food is created from the pith of the reeds, which makes a nourishing asparagus-like vegetable. Some of the pith is also dried and turned into flour, for baking bread.

          Commercial fishermen have over-fished the waters, tourists are affecting their traditional culture and sewage from Puno is causing environmental and health problems. Sewage and pesticides are causing sickness as well as affecting the totora reeds that aren’t growing to the lengths they once did.

            Only time will tell how the Uros people meet the modern challenges that affect their unique lifestyle.