DAINTREE RAINFOREST and MORE

                                A Great Visit
       When we reached the Daintree River our guide drove the van onto a small cable ferry to get across the river. After crossing the road was narrow and winding, and it seemed like a long ride as much of it was done in the dark and the last part in the rain.

     We stayed in the Daintree rainforest where the lovely cabins we built on stilts. It was morning before we could see just where we were settled. During the night we listened to lots of nature noises, and that was great. The first morning I was quiet so not to wake my travel buddy, but I am an early riser. I sat in our lounge area in front of huge picture windows with my coffee, and all I could see was lush foliage and vegetation! Great care had been taken to design the resort to blend into its surroundings and to be ecologically sensitive to the World Heritage Area. Elevated wooden pathways protected the ground from being trampled. The 250 acre site showcases a towering mountain range in the background. The mountains collects the rain clouds and then sends rain to the valley and coast. The normal rainfall is 60-inches a year,

     Early one morning we walked down to the beach for a ride out to the Great Barrier Reef to do some snorkeling. We learned that at certain times of the year box jellyfish  wash down from the rivers bringing the stinging devils close toshore. This deadliest of all jellyfish is but fist-size but has four meter-long tentacles. At these times some beaches drop nets to enclose an area for safe swimming.

     It was a bit over an hour boat ride out to the reef. The Great Barrier Reef,  the largest coral system in the world, protects hundreds of small off shore islands on Australia’s east coast fom Brisbane north to Cairns. I found the snorkeling here much better than a previous trip when we went off of Green Island which pretty much has been trampled by many tourists. It was a pleasant day and a new experience for my travel buddy.

   Another day we walked down to Coopers Creek where our skiff captain was waiting to take us on a boat ride through the estuary. We learned the brackish estuary is hoe to 20 of the 69 known mangrove species. Mangroves in this area grow 30-50-feet tall protecting 70% of the tropical shore around the world. Only 70% of the mangrove is above water surface; the rest in underwater where a filter at the bottom of each root filters the water. Sitting in the motorized skiff looking up at the mangroves was amazing.

    After a while the captain started talking about crocodiles saying, “Crocks prefer temperatures of at least 30 degrees centigrade. Female crocks are territorial and reach 14-feet long. Males reach 23-27-feet and can way up to two ton. They wander in and out of territories. It is possible for them to live 80-100 years. Crocks eat mud crabs, wallaby, and mud pigs among other things.

    “ They can swim 100km into the ocean. Capable of slowing their heartbeat, they can stay submerged in the water for an hour. Breeding season is December to April, and mama lays 30-80 eggs in a nest. The crock goes into a trance-like state when laying eggs, then afterward returns to her vicious self. Gestation is 6-8 weeks. Mom monitors the nest for 90 days, then uncovers it removing the 10-inch hatchlings to the water. The temperature of the nest determines the sex of the egg; 85 degrees is good for a female, 90 degrees for a male.

    “A baby crock is not safe to be on its own until 4-5 years old. The survival rate is ½%! Crocodiles have been protected since the 1970s, and there is a fine for anyone caught poaching. The growth rate is about a meter every 10 years.

    “The cold blooded reptiles can move up to 30 km an hour and cannot zig zag. He has no tongue and cannot swallow under water. It has piercing but no grinding teeth. The brain is in its head between the eyes. They thermos-regulate through an open mouth.”

    The talkative entertaining guide/captain ended saying,”It’s always a good idea to give a crocodile its space!” was a full fun morning.

    That afternoon we met a botanist who took us on an interesting hike through the rainforest. Enthusiastic, she obviously loved her job. She pointed out the coral cycad tree, corkscrew vine, matchbox bean vine, black palm and black walnut tree. She said, ”Studies are being done on the black walnut bark as possibly helping in nerve regeneration.”

     She also talked about the flightless cassowary and two tree climbing kangaroos found only in the rainforest.

    This delightful place is definitely on my return-to list!

GENEVA, SWITZERLAND

                                            Pedestrians Beware

       Situated along the banks of Lake Geneva, Europe’s largest alpine lake, and at the foot of the Alps, Geneva sparkles as one of Europe's most beautiful cities.

       Most of the time I’ve spent in Geneva has been through the airport, but I was lucky enough to have a full day there  recently after hiking the Alps. Arriving at the airport hotel early in the morning our rooms were not ready so after leaving our luggage with the concierge, our guide gave us transit tickets and accompanied us by tram to the city center. He tramped us all over the city leaving us in Old Town. The bell tower down town was out landmark.

       One can’t miss one of the city’s famous landmarks---the Jet d’Eau fountain. One of the largest fountains in the world, it is featured on the city’s official tourism web site.  Five hundred liters (132 gallons) of water per second are pumped 140 meters (459 feet) in the air by two 500 kw pumps, using one megawatt of electricity.  The water leaves the nozzle at a speed of 200 km/hour. At any given moment there are about 7,000 liters (1849 gallons) of water in the air. The original Jet d’Eau, installed in 1886, was a little further downstream from its present location.  Originally it was used as a safety valve for a hydraulic power network and was not a tourist attraction.  When factories closed down in the evening the valve was used to release pressure in the system.  In 1891, its aesthetic value was recognized and the fountain was moved to its present location.   The present Jet d’Eau was installed in 1951 in a partially submerged pumping station to pump lake water instead of city water!

      Lake Geneva is surrounded by a lovely pedestrian promenade and manicured city parks. Geneva  is the capital of the Republic and Canton of Geneva.     With a city population of 192,300 and a canton population of 468,000, Geneva is the second most populous city in Switzerland---after Zurich.  

      Geneva is a global city, a financial center, and worldwide center for  diplomacy. Over 200 international organizations, including the headquarters of many of the agencies such as the United Nations and the Red Cross are located here, as well as corporate headquarters for international companies such as P&G and IBM. The Geneva Conventions, which chiefly deals with the treatment of wartime non-combatants and prisoners of war, were signed here.  

      Geneva has 200 pianos around the city that anyone can sit down and play at anytime. We heard a couple people playing. These people are ordinary people, not street performers. Interesting.

      Geneva's Old Town, a gothic maze of cobblestone streets and is   topped by historic Saint Pierre's Cathedral and the Town Hall where the League of Nations and the Red Cross were founded.

      Being without a car we bought tickets for the city tram to get to some of the places out of the city center. Riding around we came upon the Broken Chair Monument. Made of wood, it stands 39-feet tall and is constructed from 5.5 tons of wood. The chair stands across the street from the Palace of Nations and symbolizes land mines and cluster bomb injuries. Erected in 1997 by Handicap International, it was intended to remain for only three months. Forty countries ratified the Ottawa Treaty, but because of the failure of several significant countries to sign and public support for the sculpture, it remained in place until 2005 when it was removed for remodeling of the Place des Nations. It was reinstalled in 2007. We got around the city, including by the major buildings, on the tram.    

      The traffic in Geneva is horrendous. The cars are high-end and bigger than in the villages. There are a lot of bicycles and even more motor cycles where the drivers abide by their own rules! It is a pedestrian beware city.

      Hiking friends wanted to introduce us to reclette. After a bit of walking around and reading restaurant menus we found a restaurant in Old Town that served  this specialty. Reclette is melted cheese of the same name that is scraped into a dish and served with cooked but small firm potatoes, gherkins and pickled onions.  We each enjoyed a single portion and a good size salad which was a most adequate lunch.

      We walked all over town, up and down hills and had a most enjoyable day in Geneva. We saw and learned several new things on a warm sunny day.

ALPHORN abd OPIUM ICE CREAM

MORE FUN EXPERIENCES

THE ALPHORN

        In the 1970s a Swiss band made the alphorn famous but we know it from the popular Ricola TV commercials. In Switzerland a visit to the only alphorn factory in the world was  most interesting. A factory guide told us that the factory manufactures two horns a day, or about 250 a year. The small factory has only a few employees.

      Half of the horns manufactured remain in Switzerland; 25% of the horns are exported to the US, and the remaining 25% go to Asia, mostly Japan.

      Holding a horn the guide explained that it has no holes or valves, so the length determines the pitch. The longer the horn the deeper the pitch.

      Then surprisingly he pulled the horn apart telling us that the horn breaks down into three sections to fit into a manageable carrying case. Narrow brass rings connect the horn when it is connected. The average price of a horn is about $2000. The longest horn in the world is 47 meters (approximately 153’) and is in the Guinness Book of Records.

      In the show room we were given a chance to try to blow an alphorn. A couple of the fellows had some success, but you really have to know how to blow a horn instrument. I huffed and huffed into the horn with absolutely no success.

      The alphorn is an unusual and unique instrument, and the visit to the factory was fun. I have kept an eye peeled for the instrument ever since, but so far have not spotted one except on TV.

OPIUM ICECREAM

       One evening in Vienna leaving a restaurant where we’d enjoyed a really good, if different, pizza my traveling companion said, “An ice cream would be perfect for topping off a great meal.”

      “Good idea! This afternoon I saw an ice cream kiosk a block from the hotel. Cross here and then turn right should bring us right to it,” I answered.

       We joined a short line at the kiosk. It was hard to make a choice of the twenty or so flavors displayed. They were labeled---in Austrian or German. It didn’t make any difference as neither of us read or spoke either language.

      I asked the young man behind the counter what flavor the vanilla-looking ice cream with tiny dark specks in it was. I thought likely  chocolate chip. I was totally unsuccessful, as the fellow didn’t speak English, which was a surprise, as most often I’ve found young people, and especially young males, speak English overseas.

      I gave up the conversation and just ordered the ice cream. For this ice-creamaholic, I knew it would be good, no matter what its flavor. Licking our cones we walked away. Suddenly a young man behind us said, “Ladies, that ice cream you are eating is opium ice cream.”

     “What!” we exclaimed simultaneously.

     “Yes, you know like from the poppies grown in Afghanistan. Opium ice cream.”

      After a minute a light went on in my head and I said, “Oh, you mean poppy seed.”

      “Yes. Yes.” He strolled past us licking on his cone.

       He had been standing behind us in line and I wondered why he hadn’t jumped in to interpret for us when we were trying to converse with the vendor.

      We had a good chuckle over my opium ice cream, and I’ve had a lot of fun relating the story ever since.

HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA, CANADA

So Much to See and Do

      Halifax, Nova Scotia, the 250-year-old provincial capital with a population of 300,000, is also the province’s largest city. The city has a long sea faring and military history. Its harbor is said to be the second best in the world---after Sydney, Australia. The deep ice-free natural harbor is the core of existence and the city’s most outstanding resource. The ten-mile long harbor is shaped like a spoon with the wide bowl at the end being Bedford Basin. It has been active with explorers, sea traders, navy ships, ocean going liners, freighters, and container ships.

     In the early 1700s a few French settlers arrived when the Micmac Indians were the only inhabitants, but it was not until 1749 that the British saw the potential of the ‘great long harbor’. Colonel Edward Cornwallis established a stockaded settlement with 2500 settlers arriving in 13 ships. He named the settlement Halifax after Lord Halifax.

     By 1750 more settlers arrived establishing Dartmouth across the harbor. With a population of 68,000 Dartmouth is Nova Scotia’s second largest city. With its 23 lakes, it is known as the City of Lakes. By 1752 the settlements of Halifax and Dartmouth were linked by ferry, the oldest ferry system in North America. Today the 1.5 K Macdonald (1955) and MacKay bridges connect the cities on each end of the Narrows at the harbor entrance. However, a scenic ferry ride across the harbor is still available today for a small fee.

     By the 1800s Halifax was a thriving seaport and the harbor shaped and defined the city’s history. During the American Revolution the Royal Navy sailed from here to harass the east coast of the United States, and during the Civil War ships ran the blockade.

In 1838 Cunard Lines established British and North American mail, and by 1840 four ships provided regular transport between the two continents. In 1841 the seaport incorporated, ushering in the mercantile era. Troop transports gathered and sailed from Halifax during WWI and WWII.”

     Today the city wraps itself around its historic heart. Historic old districts are integrated with modern stylish buildings. The streets leading from the harbor are steep. Several covered walkways over streets, called pedways, eliminate a great deal of the climb and they also keep people dry in inclement weather.

    The waterfront is still very active. Dover flour has a huge facility and can load 90,000 barrels of flour an hour into a ship.

     In the 1960-70s sand blasting of old building exteriors began a historic preservation program, and upscale hotels appeared on the landscape. Although a municipal mandate restricting building height, to preserve the view of the waterfront, was passed, somehow a few managed to get around the mandate.

     The old wooden waterfront warehouses and fine stone structures have been renovated and turned into a favorite area for restaurants, sidewalk cafés, and trendy shops.

    The Citadel, a hilltop, star shaped, granite fortress, dominates the city. Over-looking the harbor it offers a strategic view of the bay, and a magnificent view of the city. The present Citadel, completed in 1856, took 27 years to build and is the fourth built on the site. Its construction was at the urging of the Duke of Wellington; the cost was 242,000 pounds. In its day the Citadel represented the best of defensive military technology. However, a shot has never been fired.

From 1749-1906 the Citadel was under British rule. In 1906 it was transferred to the Canadian Department of Defense, and in 1956 designated a National Historic Site. 

     During the summer, college students dressed in period uniforms and kilts of the 78^th Highlanders, who originally manned the fort, demonstrate various military drills. Changing of the guard takes place on the hour. After a two-hour rest they are again on duty where they stand at attention for an hour. During that time they are allowed to take 15 paces a total of seven times to aid leg circulation. These young men look smart and do a remarkably good job.

      On the harbor side of Citadel Hill sits the Old Town Clock. Prince Edward, father of Queen Victoria, commissioned it in 1803. The clock on each side is a different size. The population in each direction, N,E,S,W, determined the clock size.

      Below Citadel Hill is St. Paul’s Anglican Church, a gift of King George III, and the oldest building in the city (1749). City Hall is of Georgian architecture dating to 1916. St. Mary’s Basilica has the tallest granite spire (128’) in Canada. Halifax has many historic buildings.

     Trivia: The first newspaper was established in 1752, and the first post office in 1754.Nova Scotia exports more lobsters than any place else in the world.

      Point Pleasant Park is still leased from England for the sum of one shilling a year. Each year there is a ceremony when an official from Halifax gives the crown the one shilling. Then it is given back to Halifax because the price has never changed, but the shilling is no longer available, so that one is guarded carefully!

      The Public Gardens (1865) cover 17 acres in the heart of the city. Early one afternoon we elected to walk through the lovely Victorian gardens. Part way through the park we heard music and followed the sound to a quaint gazebo where we stopped to listen to a great lively concert---what good timing!

      The harbor is bordered by Upper and Lower Water Streets. Barington Street is the historic center of downtown and is the street many troops marched down to Pier 21 for transit to areas of conflict. For 43 years (1928-71) Pier 21 was also the gateway for a million immigrants, including 50,000 war brides from Europe.

     On D-day it was decided that all pubs and business establishments should close. Servicemen weren’t at all thrilled about not being able to get a drink and a riot ensued causing much damage. Windows in nearly all the establishments were broken. The riot lasted two and a half days before the city regained control.

    Halifax is a city with small town friendliness while maintaining big city sophistication. There is much to see and do.

THE CANADIAN MARITIMES

                           Lots of History and Beauty

      We found a journey through the Canadian Maritimes one rich in cultural diversity, charm, and absolutely gorgeous natural beauty. The historic and picturesque province has many historic villages, a rugged coastline with winding roads, and dense forests.

Samuel de Champlain discovered Nova Scotia in 1604. Nova Scotia is Latin for New Scotland. The native people were Mi’kmaq, but today are commonly called Micmac; the two terms are interchangeable.

      Canada has three territories and ten provinces, two of which, PEI and Nova Scotia, are in the Maritimes. Nova Scotia with its northeastern chunk of land known as Cape Breton Island and Prince Edward Island (PEI) make up Canada’s Maritime Provinces. Add Newfoundland and then one speaks of the group as the Atlantic Provinces.

      Our ferry docked in Yarmouth, a city of 7800. Located on the southern coast of the island where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Bay of Fundy, the city was established in 1761 because of its proximity to New England ports. A lucrative trade with the West Indies brought prosperity and many beautiful old buildings and elegant homes in the city reflect that. Now the main ferry terminus, the area was once the center of ship building. A large herring fleet remains active today, and lumber and Christmas trees continue to be shipped from the harbor.

    Trivia: Paul Revere studied free masonry in Yarmouth. 


In more modern times Yarmouth was  the home of Charles Fuller of Fuller Brush fame

  The Acadian coast runs 70 miles up the west coast from Yarmouth to Digby.


All along the way fishermen homes were painted cheerful pastel colors.

 Halifax is the largest urban center in Atlantic Canada for business, education, and culture. The area’s history can be learned at Nova Scotia Museum, which has 25 locations and historical sites. In addition there are 75 community museums.

Halifax is a city with small town friendliness while maintaining big city sophistication.

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Evagline 8-31-14

Digby 10-3-12

Titanic 11-23-14

PEI 12-8-13

Algonquin 2-2-14