So Much to See and Do
Halifax,
Nova Scotia, the 250-year-old provincial capital with a population of
300,000, is also the province’s largest city. The city has a long
sea faring and military history. Its harbor is said to be the second
best in the world---after Sydney, Australia. The deep ice-free
natural harbor is the core of existence and the city’s most
outstanding resource. The ten-mile long harbor is shaped like a spoon
with the wide bowl at the end being Bedford Basin. It has been active
with explorers, sea traders, navy ships, ocean going liners,
freighters, and container ships.
In
the early 1700s a few French settlers arrived when the Micmac Indians
were the only inhabitants, but it was not until 1749 that the British
saw the potential of the ‘great long harbor’. Colonel Edward
Cornwallis established a stockaded settlement with 2500 settlers
arriving in 13 ships. He named the settlement Halifax after Lord
Halifax.
By
1750 more settlers arrived establishing Dartmouth across the harbor.
With a population of 68,000 Dartmouth is Nova Scotia’s second
largest city. With its 23 lakes, it is known as the City of Lakes. By
1752 the settlements of Halifax and Dartmouth were linked by ferry,
the oldest ferry system in North America. Today the 1.5 K Macdonald
(1955) and MacKay bridges connect the cities on each end of the
Narrows at the harbor entrance. However, a scenic ferry ride across
the harbor is still available today for a small fee.
By
the 1800s Halifax was a thriving seaport and the harbor shaped and
defined the city’s history. During the American Revolution the
Royal Navy sailed from here to harass the east coast of the United
States, and during the Civil War ships ran the blockade.
In
1838 Cunard Lines established British and North American mail, and by
1840 four ships provided regular transport between the two
continents. In 1841 the seaport incorporated, ushering in the
mercantile era. Troop transports gathered and sailed from Halifax
during WWI and WWII.”
Today
the city wraps itself around its historic heart. Historic old
districts are integrated with modern stylish buildings. The streets
leading from the harbor are steep. Several covered walkways over
streets, called pedways,
eliminate a great deal of the climb and they also keep people dry in
inclement weather.
The
waterfront is still very active. Dover flour has a huge facility and
can load 90,000 barrels of flour an hour
into
a ship.
In
the 1960-70s sand blasting of old building exteriors began a historic
preservation program, and upscale hotels appeared on the landscape.
Although a municipal mandate restricting building height, to preserve
the view of the waterfront, was passed, somehow a few managed to get
around the mandate.
The
old wooden waterfront warehouses and fine stone structures have been
renovated and turned into a favorite area for restaurants, sidewalk
cafés, and trendy shops.
The
Citadel, a hilltop, star shaped, granite fortress, dominates the
city. Over-looking the harbor it offers a strategic view of the bay,
and a magnificent view of the city. The present Citadel, completed in
1856, took 27 years to build and is the fourth built on the site. Its
construction was at the urging of the Duke of Wellington; the cost
was 242,000 pounds. In its day the Citadel represented the best of
defensive military technology. However, a shot has never been fired.
From
1749-1906 the Citadel was under British rule. In 1906 it was
transferred to the Canadian Department of Defense, and in 1956
designated a National Historic Site.
During the summer, college
students dressed in period uniforms and kilts of the 78th
Highlanders, who originally manned the fort, demonstrate various
military drills. Changing of the guard takes place on the hour. After
a two-hour rest they are again on duty where they stand at attention
for an hour. During that time they are allowed to take 15 paces a
total of seven times to aid leg circulation. These young men look
smart and do a remarkably good job.
On
the harbor side of Citadel Hill sits the Old Town Clock. Prince
Edward, father of Queen Victoria, commissioned it in 1803. The clock
on each side is a different size. The population in each direction,
N,E,S,W, determined the clock size.
Below
Citadel Hill is St. Paul’s Anglican Church, a gift of King George
III, and the oldest building in the city (1749). City Hall is of
Georgian architecture dating to 1916. St. Mary’s Basilica has the
tallest granite spire (128’) in Canada. Halifax has many
historic buildings.
Trivia:
The first newspaper was established in 1752, and the first post
office in 1754.Nova Scotia exports more lobsters than any place else
in the world.
Point
Pleasant Park is still leased from England for the sum of one
shilling a year. Each year there is a ceremony when an official from
Halifax gives the crown the one shilling. Then it is given back to
Halifax because the price has never changed, but the shilling is no
longer available, so that one is guarded carefully!
The
Public Gardens (1865) cover 17 acres in the heart of the city. Early
one afternoon we elected to walk through the lovely Victorian
gardens. Part way through the park we heard music and followed the
sound to a quaint gazebo where we stopped to listen to a great
lively concert---what good timing!
The
harbor is bordered by Upper and Lower Water Streets. Barington
Street is the historic center of downtown and is the street many
troops marched down to Pier 21 for transit to areas of conflict. For
43 years (1928-71) Pier 21 was also the gateway for a million
immigrants, including 50,000 war brides from Europe.
On
D-day it was decided that all pubs and business establishments should
close. Servicemen weren’t at all thrilled about not being able to
get a drink and a riot ensued causing much damage. Windows in nearly
all the establishments were broken. The riot lasted two and a half
days before the city regained control.
Halifax
is a city with small town friendliness while maintaining big city
sophistication. There is much to see and do.
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