ATIU,COOK ISLANDS

                        Atiu, A Cook Island Paradise

           Atiu is 130 miles northeast of Rarotonga. Early afternoon we loaded zodiacs to surf through the breakwater’s narrow opening to the beach where we were greeted by conch blowing and drum beating warriors. The whole island turned out to greet us, and friendly gals gave each of us a fresh flower lei. The fragrant plumeria lei is my favorite.

 We were ushered to their open-air recreation building where we were given a feast of delicious fresh island fruit served on palm fond woven plates. The friendly islanders put on a very good dance demonstration for us.

Then we loaded les truck for a ride around the island. Our transportation was literally a pickup truck with benches placed in the truck’s bed. This is the only means of transportation on the island. The island’s many narrow roads sometimes were nothing more than tire-tracks. The vegetation was lush and thick. Atiu’s high central plateau at 233 feet is a contrast to its neighboring flat islands. The island is surrounded by low swamps and a 66-foot high raised coral reef.  Dense forest grow on the west coast and low growing bird nest ferns provide a thick green cover. The cliffs of Makatea contain extensive limestone caves.

 Atiu’s 900 residents live in five villages, in clustered groups inland, different from Tahitians who live around the perimeter of their islands. In 1777 when Capt. Cook discovered this volcanic island he named it Island Enuamanu meaning land of birds. Coffee, taro, pineapple, papaya, and oranges are grown for export to New Zealand.

            While sipping  fresh coffee at the  small Atui Coffee Company we were told. “There are two types of coffee beans grown in the world: robusta and arabica. Robusta beans are dried in their shells absorbing caffeine and acid in the process. Because this would be too bitter to drink plain, these beans are combined with arabica beans which are dried without their shells. Arabica beans are only grown in a few places, Atiu, Kenya, and Costa Rica among them. The beans are separated by size before roasting to produce even roasting. The size of the bean does not determine flavor; they are all the same. The longer the bean is roasted the less caffeine and acid, as it is lost in the roasting process. That is why dark roasted coffee has less caffeine. From January to June the cherries are handpicked and within six hours the cherries are pulped to expose the bean. Atiu coffee is 100% sun dried.”

            In the center of the island we stopped where many years ago someone paced off the island north to south and east and west and determined this to be the center of the island. More recently surveyors repeated the process with modern instruments and found the original marker off by only two meters!

A docent accompanied us to several ancient sites saying, “These ancient temples are called maraes.  In times past the High Chiefs would gather here to decide if they would or would not go to war. There are three tribes on the island now, each ruled by its own chief. Leadership is passed on to the oldest son.”

            We stopped at Atiu’s only hotel. Tourism is in its infancy here so its four cabins were apparently adequate to accommodate the island’s 600 annual visitors. The owner, an Englishman, met my wife in New Zealand more than 25 years ago. She is Tahitian and after a holiday on Atiu in 1979 they decided to move here, arriving on the first plane. He built the quaint and comfortable bungalows using native woods.

            Our final stop on the island was at the small beach where Capt. Cook landed. The lovely island would be great for a relaxing vacation, but I’m afraid a bit too small for me not to suffer a little island fever.

FLANDERS FIELD, BELGIUM

                                 Flanders Field 
This seems like an appropriate time for this post in memory of all our veterans.

            Flanders Field is located in the medieval County of Flanders, which spans southern Belgium and north-west France.

            We were met on arrival by the American manager of the cemetery who told us, “The agency that maintains 24 cemeteries is called the American Battles Monument Commission and is an independent agency falling under the executive branch. General Pershing was the first executor of the organization.”

            While in the warm building he continued, “The crosses are made of Italian white marble. There are two Jewish Unknown Soldier markers in the cemetery. Nine days after Lindberg’s solo flight, he flew over the cemetery and dropped a bouquet of red poppies. The occupants of this cemetery were the first and last to act under foreign command—Belgium. There are no women buried here.” The first Memorial Day was in 1924.

            Of course during WW I no women served in the armed forces.          A crew of four maintains the cemetery. All the stones are washed first thing each week day with water and a soft brush. When a family member visits, the stone is dampened and engravings filled with Normandy sand. This gives a golden glow to the engravings and makes them stand out in photographs.

Battlefield

            The German military used poison gas for the first time on the Western Front which saw the beginning of ‘trench warfare’ that characterized this global war. The Battle of Passchendaele (third battle) ended when British, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand forces recaptured the Passchendaele ridge, east of the city but at tremendous loss. During three months of fighting

over 750,000 men lost their lives.     The American Cemetery and Memorial is the only American World War I cemetery in Belgium and is the smallest American cemetery in Europe. There are 368 American servicemen who died in Belgium buried or commemorated  here. The cemetery occupies a six acre site, and as with all Allied war cemeteries, the land was provided in perpetuity by the Belgian government.

The headstones are aligned in four symmetrical areas around the white stone chapel that stands in the center of the cemetery. The altar inside the chapel is made of black and white Grand Antique marble with draped flags on each side. A crusader's sword outlined in gold is above the altar. The chapel furniture is carved oak, stained black with white veining to harmonize with the altar. The side walls of the chapel are inscribed with the names of 43 missing American servicemen who have no known graves. The small chapel has a gorgeous ceiling.

Masses of graceful trees and shrubbery frame the burial area and screen it from passing traffic. At the ends of the paths leading to three corners of the cemetery are circular retreats, with benches and urns.         

During WW I, Canadian physician, Lt. Colonel John McCrae, is believed to have written this famous poem in May 1915 after witnessing the death the day before of his 22-year-old friend, Lieutenant Alexis Helmer.  The poppies referred to grew in profusion in Flanders in the disturbed earth of battlefields and cemeteries and thus became a symbol of Memorial Day, November 11, when WW I ended on the 11^th  day of the 11^th month at 11 AM.

            In Flanders fields the poppies blow
             Between the crosses, row on row,
             That mark our place; and in the sky
             The larks, still bravely singing, fly
             Scarce heard amid the guns below.

            We are the Dead. Short days ago
            We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
               Loved and were loved, and now we lie,
             In Flanders fields.

            Take up our quarrel with the foe:
            To you from failing hands we throw
             The torch; be yours to hold it high.
               If ye break faith with us who die
            We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
                          In Flanders fields

Needless to say this was a somber but memorable visit. The American manager was kind, helpful and answered all of our questions. 

TWO OF BUDAPEST'S SYMBOL'S AND HIGHLIGHTS

 Matthias Church

            Also called the Church of Our Lady or Coronation Church, Matthias Church is a beautiful turn of the century neo-Gothic structure. Symbol of the city’s Castle District, this is where kings were crowned. The raven, the sign of 15^th century kings, can be seen on the towers.

            The earliest remains of the church date back to the 13th century when King Béla IV. (1206-1270) commissioned the building of a church at Castle Hill after the 1241-42 Mongol invasion. The north tower was built at that time (1255-1269)

            King Matthias Corvinus expanded and embellished the building in Renaissance style and  added the 195-foot high southern  tower. The Matthias bell tower bears a raven holding a golden ring in its beak, the royal coat of arms.          

            Our guide told us, “King Matthias was known for his fairness and justice, and Hungary flourished under his rule. He was married twice in the church that bears his name. Built in the 13-15^th centuries, it is another symbol of Budapest.

In 1541 the Turks invaded Hungary and occupied the country for 150 years. The Turks turned the church into a mosque and white-washed the wall covered frescos. After Buda was retaken, the Jesuits were given the church and made some Baroque alterations. The church became a parish church in 1773. It was restored in the latter part of the 19^th century in neo-gothic style.

            The exterior and the frescos as well as the marvelous stained windows originate from that era and are the works of Hungary's greatest artists of the time.

             Today, inside  the church one wall retains  its Turkish geometric design, while frescos are evident elsewhere.  The structure has a beautiful mosaic roof. Because of the exceptional acoustics, concerts are often held in the church.

            A memorial plaque on the outside of the church commemorates all who lost their lives while the country was under Hitler and Stalin rule.

Fisherman’s Bastion

             Perched on the edge of the Castle District behind Matthias Church is a neo-Romanesque structure known as Fisherman’s Bastion. Built at the turn of the century in the location of the old fish market; it  provides  a panoramic view of the Danube River and Pest. The seven towers represent the seven tribes of Hungarians when they settled down by the Danube in the Carpathian basin in 896. The building has many turrets, terraces, parapets and stairways offering  exceptional views.It is an unforgettable landmark in Budapest.

            Fishermen's Bastion never was used for military defensive purposes; it was created only for decorative reasons.

          From the backside of the structure one can view part of a medieval wall that is between it and the Hilton Hotel.  When the medieval ruins were discovered during the construction of the hotel, the hotel’s design was altered to accommodate, not destroy, the ruins.

   Nearby is a statue of St. Stephen atop his horse.

DELFT, THE NETHERLANDS

                                  City  Highlights of  Delft

            The city of Delft, known for its distinctive pottery and close ties to the Dutch royal family, is located between Rotterdam and The Hague. The city’s atmosphere is relaxed and typically Dutch. Delft received its city franchise from the Dutch Earl, Willem  II, in 1246.

            In the characteristic town center are exceptional gabled buildings, intimate canals, bridges, narrow alleys and limited car access.  The center piece in the square is a statue of Hugo Grotius (1583-1645), an edacuator and lawyer who formulated the basis for many laws.

            In May 1536 a fire destroyed 2,300 homes. It is likely that the wooden spire of the Nieuwe Kerk (new church) was hit by lightning and flying sparks set the surrounding buildings on fire. The Netherlands has no native stone, so all stone is imported. When this was demanded after the explosion and  fire in 1654 only well-to-do people could afford to build with stone forcing many less fortunate people to leave the city. Somehow 80,000 pounds of gunpowder stored in the convent set off  the event  known as the Thunderclap. In 1660 a new gunpowder house was built about a mile outside the city center.

            It is not unusual to see leaning building in the Netherlands and Delft was no exception. The Oude

Kerk, (old church) founded as St. Bartholomew’s Church in 1246, is on the site of previous churches dating back two centuries. During its building, the foundations weren't strong enough to support the building, so the church began to lean. As building the church continued they tried to compensate its lean on each layer of the tower, so only the 4 turrets at the top are truly vertical. The tower was added between 1325–50, and dominated the townscape for a century and a half until it was surpassed in height by the Niwuwe Kerk tower. Its huge heavy bell, 1570, is rung only for funerals. The old monastery, Prinsenof, now a museum, is also where William of Orange was shot.

            The city’s association with the House of Orange dates to 1572 when William of Orange took up residence in the walled city, making it his headquarters in the fight against the Spanish. When William was shot in 1584 the family’s traditional burial ground was still under Spanish rule, so he was buried in Delft’s New Church, a custom the royal family continues today.

            Nieuwe Kerk, 1382, is the landmark Protestant  Church in Delft, and stands opposite  city hall (Stadhuis) on the square. Its church tower is the second highest in The Netherlands. The 16^th pillar represents the prophets, the four pillars represent the evangelists, and the 12^th pillar represents the apostles. The stain glass windows, added in 1936, were removed in 1938 and stored safely and replaced after the war. The church is remarkable for its fine 330-foot high tower and chime of  bells as well as a splendid mausoleum of Prince William of Orange, also known as William the Silent. All of the royal family is buried in this church.

Delft City Hall

            The Renaissance-style City Hall is the former seat of city government. Today it is where residents hold their civil wedding ceremonies. Changed over the centuries, it was restored in the 20th century to its original Renaissance splendor. The red shuttered building dates to 1618-1620, but the tower, covered in expensive Belgian limestone, is much older. The tower, called De Steen or The Stone, originally built around 1300, has decorative clock faces from 1536. Under the tower is an old city prison where William the Silent’s assassin was confined before sentencing.

            Except for one, the old city gates were demolished in the 19th century. The Eastern Gate (Oostpoort), 1400, is an example of Brick Gothic Northern European architecture. In 1510 the towers were enhanced with an additional octagonal floor and high spires. It currently serves as an art gallery and private residence.

SOME OF MOSCOW'S CHURCHES

                            Russian Orthodox Churches

            Several times during out Moscow visit we passed by Christ our Savior Cathedral. The largest church in Moscow was started in 1839 after the war of 1812, but took 44 years and the reign of four czars to complete. The city’s first electric lights were installed in front of the church. Stalin destroyed the church in 1931 and it became a city swimming pool. In 1944 the pool was covered and in 1995, financed with private monies, construction began on the present church. After four years the exterior was finished and two years later the interior was done. The mosaics inside are beautiful. The church has five domes with a large central and four angular turrets containing 14 bells. The church is so big that the main cathedral in the Kremlin could fit inside it.

            The white limestone Assumption Cathedral’s exterior dates to 1475. Five gilded cupolas sparkle atop narrow drums. The cathedral has stood for centuries as a Russian national shrine. Patriarchs have been anointed and czars  crowned before the altar. Ivan the Terrible’s custom-made coronation throne is housed within. Napoleon used the cathedral as a horse stable and its icons for fire wood. The bell tower, holding 23 bells, reaches 264 feet toward the sky.

            Archangel Michael Cathedral built in 1505-1508 has five domes. Sarcophagi dominate the interior and the remains of every Russian up to Peter the Great rest here.

            The churches are all Russian Orthodox and it was at the nine-domed Annunciation Church that we learned a lot about the Orthodox Church. People attending church services stand, with the exception of the royal or patron box, as there are no chairs, pews or benches. Frescos cover the walls, ceiling, columns leaving nary a square inch of free space! The frescoes in this church date to the 15^th century and were restored in the 17^th century. The frescoes tell the story of the bible for the illiterate.

            The altar is hidden behind the iconostasis which covers the entire front wall of the sanctuary. Icons are religious paintings that are usually painted on wood or sometimes canvas. An ornate door in the center of the iconostasis opens to the altar. The second icon on the right of the door is of the saint from whom the church derives its name. The rows of icons are always an uneven number with five being the most common. The bottom row is representative of the local area, the second row represents the Diesis, the third row the feast and festival, the fourth row the prophets, and the fifth row the fathers of the church. Each icon is framed with a large ornate gold molding making for a glittering wall. Russian Orthodox churches normally do not have statuary, angels etc as they are considered pagan.

HIGH TEAS

                          The Empress Hotel  High Tea and Alternative

In 1908 the   chateau- style Empress Hotel was built by the Canadian and Pacific Railroad as

the most western hotel in its chain across Canada. Overlooking the harbor, it has become a symbol of Victoria and now is a National Historical Landmark of Canada.

In 1965 there was much debate about tearing down what had become a faded, dowdy hotel to make room for a more modern high-rise hotel. But because of civic concern the hotel underwent a renovation in 1965. In 1999, Canadian Pacific spun off its Canadian Pacific Hotels to the Fairmont Hotel chain.

The Empress now has three sittings for tea each afternoon. I was disappointed to see that tea is now served in the hotel lobby, often with a line of people waiting to get in. That couldn’t hold a candle to the wonderful high-tea I had in 1989 in the hotel’s Crystal Ballroom. The tux-clad waiters were attentive as they served us tiny finger sandwiches, scones with jelly and clotted crème with our tea.

Although not enthusiastic about either the setting or $60 fee I did tell my travelling buddy I was willing, but the call was hers. We decided to enjoy tea at the Point Ellice House and that was an excellent choice.

Since the Point Ellice House was on the Gorge it was a pleasant walk from our hotel. Another couple joined us. Tea was served in the old carriage house, which was built in the same spot where the burned barn had stood. We were at our table with linen tablecloth/napkins for nearly two hours. Besides finger sandwiches we also were served sweets, scones and all the tea we wanted to drink. We ate the scones in the proper manner as described in the Point Ellice brochure.

This tearoom also served as a small gift shop with some lovely things for sale. It was nice to see the absence of all the tourist junk.

Our server told us, “During the 19^th century this was an area full of lovely Victorian homes where the gentry and well to do people lived. This Italianate cottage was built in 1861, and was enlarged and landscaped between 1875-89. The O’Reillys, with four children, moved into the house in 1867. Peter O’Reilly was Irish and lived from 1828 to 1905.

“The O’Reilly family occupied the home for 106 years. Mr. O’Reilly was a government official. The family never threw anything away. They kept extensive records even including workmen who arrived to do various chores. There are over 10,000 Victorian objects in the home. The property extends several hundred feet along the Gorge.”

Mrs. O’Reilly apparently wrote a cookbook where there were three recipes for lemon curd or lemon cheesecake. Except for hot cocoa and candy or bon bons, chocolate did not exist in Victorian cooking. There was no such thing as brownies, chocolate chip cookies, or chocolate cake.

One daughter, Kathleen, was quite an accomplished artist and several of her paintings are on view in the house. She never married, as she found life at Ellice house too comfortable and happy.  She remained in the house until her death in 1945. After that the house passed to a nephew. In 1975 the Provincial Government bought the property.

After tea we toured the house. We each were given headphones, that worked wonderfully well, and a cassette recorder. The Chinese houseboy told the story of the house. Periodically he was interrupted by the English parlor maid with some tid bit of information. Occasionally an excerpt from a diary was read. It was a very creative, imaginative way to tell the story.

It was a delightful way to spend the afternoon and to end our visit to Victoria.