GEOPARK and REVERSING FALLS

                                             Lots to See and Learn

     I knew what an eco-museum was and, among my travels, have visited several, but a geopark was new to me. I quote from a Stonehammer pamphlet in New Brunswick, Canada: A Geopark is an area recognized by the Global Geoparks Network, supported by UNESCO, which has exceptional geological heritage. This simply means the area has a natural landscape that is good for education, has a significant scientific value, is particularly rare or it is simply beautiful to look at. Geoparks are not just about geology though, they also take in sites with interesting archaeology, wildlife and habitats, history folklore and culture, all of which are intricately linked with the underlying geology.

     The landscape of Stonehammer has been created by the collision of continents, the closing and opening of oceans, volcanoes, earthquakes, ice ages and climate change. The rocks here have been witness to the evolution of life, from the discovery of Precambrian stromatolite fossils to the ‘Cambrian Explosion’ of life to the evolution of vertebrates and the emergence of life on land.

     There are several parts to Stonehammer Geopark  and the parts we saw included the Irving Nature Park, Fallsview Park and the Reversing Rapids, the Sea Caves, and the Fundy Trail. The area where the two continents collided and split was under a harbor bridge in St. John. We rode over the bridge but did not investigate below.

Reversing Rapids, previously reversing falls

     The phenomenon of the Reversing Rapids is caused by the tremendous rise and fall of the tides of the Bay of Fundy, which at 50-feet are the highest in the world. The natural southward-facing opening of the Bay of Fundy receives the on rushing ocean tides.

     The tidewater is normal when it enters the bay. But as it travels up the bay it changes. Squeezed by the ever-narrowing sides and the constant shallowing of the bottom, it forces the water higher up the shores. The low tide running out of the bay collides with the new, incoming high tide, combining forces to make a higher wave coming in. The combination of wave forces is called resonance.

    The tides are affected by the distance of the moon from the earth. St. John River, 450 miles long, empties into the bay. At Fallsview Park, across from the Pulp Mill, is the perfect place to view the river  as it thunders through a narrow gorge. An underwater ledge, 36 feet below the surface, causes the water in the river to tumble downward into a 175-200 foot deep pool. Below the mill and under the bridge the water boils in a series of rapids and whirlpools.

    As the bay tides begin to rise they slow the course of the river and finally stop the river's flow completely. This short period of complete calm is called slack tide. This is the only time boats are able to navigate the Falls. Shortly after this slack tide, which only lasts 20 minutes, the bay tides

Low Tide from Fallview Park

become higher than the river level and slowly, at first, the river begins to flow upstream. As the bay tides continue to rise, the reverse flow gradually increases and the rapids begin to form, reaching their peak at high tide. The effect of this reversal is felt upstream as far as Fredericton, more than 80 miles inland.

     The tide rises and falls once about every 12 1/2 hours, making high tide in 6 hours 13 minutes and the same for low tide.

     Across from the pulp mill we were able to view both the high and low tides and observe the difference of the colliding tides.  We were also in the right place at the right time to see a slack tide.

Sea Caves

     At low tide we stopped to take pictures of the boats stranded on the bottom of the harbor. We couldn’t resist a picture of the two covered bridges and light house. It is the only place in the world where one can find this combination. The lighthouse now is the Visitors’ Center. We had no need to visit it as we had all the literature/pamphlets we needed.

     The caves are accessible only at low tide. We hit that at mid morning. We walked across the rocky beach and then had no choice but to wade through an ankle deep stream about 12-15-feet wide. There was no way to even think about keeping one’s feet dry. I had on my good heavy walking shoes—oh well—I was going!

   Relatively large and deep, the Bay of Fundy has molded these attractive caves -- definitely a testament to the power of the tides. The cave is of red sandstone and in itself is not really unusual as far as caves go. What interested me was the very fine chocolate color sand floor.

     The caves are another part of the Stonehammer Geopark. Part of the sedimentary outcrop in which the caves occur is Triassic in age, dating back to the time when the Atlantic Ocean was just beginning to open and the Bay of Fundy was a rift valley. The Triassic is also the time when dinosaurs first appeared on Earth. The Bay of Fundy is 120 miles long and 30 miles across. One morning, just an hour off high tide, we drove to a path that led us up and out on top of the caves where we had an entirely different perspective of the caves that now were full of water.

ST MARTINS VILLAGE

                                           A Charming Village
      The seaside village of St. Martins, Gateway to the Fundy Trail, is nestled on miles of quiet, unspoiled Bay of Fundy beaches. Home to the World`s Highest Tides, the beautiful, picturesque village has a rich history. Besides miles of unspoiled, quiet, accessible beaches, two covered bridges, a light-house, garden-park, and an active harbor, the city also boasts world famous Sea Caves. Originally the area was called Quaco, but it is uncertain why, and today the area west of the city is now called West Quaco. (quack ko) The Village is a magnet for artists and photographers wishing to capture the unspoiled beauty of the area. A small community of artisans produces pottery, jewelry, paintings and sculptures.

     In 1783 a group of loyalist soldiers known as the King`s Orange Rangers settled here. In 1776, at the end of the American Revolution, the loyalists were sent to garrison duty in Nova Scotia. The Rangers originated from Orange and Duchess Counties, New York and disbanded at Halifax. What was known as New Brunswick at that time was part of `New Scotland` or Nova Scotia.

    The newly settled community was christened St. Martins by Matthias Moran, one of the original grantees, after his ancestral province in France. Moran was also the founder of the prolific Moran Shipbuilding Company. Together the Morans and the Vaughan family built the most number of ships at St. Martins shipyards, although there were 37 other builders. This little village became the third largest producer of wooden sailing vessels on the North America eastern seaboard.   

     The first ship, Rachel  named for his wife was launched in 1803 by David Vaughan. Of Vaughan’s 11 children, 7 of the 9 sons became master mariners. The last vessel, Salina K. Goldman was launched in 1919. When the days building sailing vessels ended, many men who comprised the talented workforce of the village found employment at the Saint John Shipbuilding Company using their expertise to produce the great modern commercial and naval vessels used today. The last vessels were the Halifax Class Frigates built for the Canadian Navy in the 1990`s.

      The unique architecture of the village was often copied from Europe. The intricate designs brought back by sea captains were incorporated into their own homes. European artisans often came to decorate ceilings and wall panels of village homes. Unfortunately, little of that art remains. Local cabinet-makers produced furniture and doors.

     A disastrous 1900 fire destroyed over 68 village buildings. However, the wealth of the shipbuilder has left a lasting architectural legacy in the grand homes remaining. 

    The village of St Martins has a very high volunteer mentality. The fire department is a volunteer one. The museum relies on volunteers. This volunteerism starts in the school system. All over town we came across small lending libraries. Each ‘little house on a pole’ was stocked with books and instructions of take one, leave one. They were darling and the system was run by students.

      All along the main street were lovely sturdy wooden benches with a large square flower box at each end. The boxes about three feet high were planted with herbs and edible plants like strawberries. A hand written sign invited you to take what you wanted but to leave some for the next person. Unfortunately the berries were not ready for eating yet! These little things lend charm to the village.

    The Quaco Museum and Library opened in 1978. The maritime museum contains the permanent collection of artifacts and archival material relating to the history of the area.

     A short hike into Fuller Falls provided me a new experience of climbing up and down a cable ladder. These large roaring falls were lovely!

    The village with a population of 314 has several guesthouses/B&Bs to accommodate visitors as well as some good restaurants. It was a positively lovely week and stay in the quiet village that does not have a traffic problem. The village is very walkable.

St JOHN, NEW BRUNSWICK

                      Not to be confused with St Johns, New Foundland

     St John, on the southern coast of New Brunswick, is the largest city in the province as well as Canada’s oldest incorporated city.  Located at the mouth of the St. John River, covering an area of 121 square miles, the city has a population of about 75,000. Once called the Loyalist City, it is most often referred to today as Fundy City.

      The topography surrounding St John is hilly; a result of the influence of two coastal mountain ranges--the St. Croix Highlands and the Caledonia Highlands--which run along the Bay of Fundy. Frequent granite outcroppings rise from the rocky soil. Flying into the city I could see the forest below  opened up with numerous ponds, lakes, streams and rivers. Loch Lomond, a large lake, is part of the water shed for the city.

     The year-round, ice-free harbor was probably first entered in 1524 by Gomez, a Spaniard, and named Rio De La Buelta. Earlier still, Basque, Breton and Norman fisherman are believed to have made voyages to the Bay of Fundy in the early 1500s. History records show that French explorers Sieur de Monts and Samuel de Champlain arrived at the mouth of what is now the St. John River on June 24, 1604, feast day of St. John the Baptist.---hence the name.

     Portland Point, near where H.M.C.S. Brunswicker is located, is an important historic landmark, and is where the first permanent French settlement in that part of Acadia, now New Brunswick, was made. The city was fortified by Charles La Tour who was Lieutenant Governor 1631-1635 and who engaged in trade with the natives.

     Thousands of Irish immigrants were quarantined on Partridge Island during the time of Ireland’s Great Famine. Many died while sailing in crowded unsanitary cargo vessels. Hundreds more died on the overcrowded island with inadequate shelter, medical care, sanitation, and drinking water.  

     Those hardy enough to make it ashore faced continued poverty, prejudice, and great challenges in finding gainful employment in the Loyalist City, thus an Irish community was established in St John during the late 19th century. Over the years immigrants with the means traveled further abroad seeking better opportunities in the west or south in the United States.

     After the 1877 fire that reduced much of the city to ashes, the Irish laborers played no small role in rebuilding the destroyed city, this time with brick and stone.

      King‘s Square, laid out with the bandstand in the center, has six radiating paths leading from it to the bordering streets. The copper roof and filigree metal framework of the King

Edward VII Memorial Bandstand, constructed in 1908, was a gift from the City Coronet Band. It quickly became a favorite location for musical interludes in King’s Square. This beloved Saint John landmark was restored in 2013.

     Nearby the Loyalist Burial Ground lies in the center of a leafy, peaceful, park-like area with lovely gardens.  Established in 1783, many Americans loyal to the British crown are also buried here. After the cemetery closed in 1848 it slowly fell into disrepair. In 1995 the Irving enterprise restored the cemetery and its park. A sweet bronze beaver fountain, sitting in the middle of a small pond, was added during restoration. . Beaver, a symbol of Canada, is found on both the money and flag.

     The Old City Market is where locals go to buy fresh produce, meat and fish. The outer perimeter houses the meat, fish and food stalls. Craftsmen inhabit the center of the market and between these two are the fresh produce stalls. The market still accommodates bench merchants—those who do not show on a daily basis.

     The original graceful, but heavy wrought iron, gates still open and close the market each day. A year after opening, the market managed to survive the great fire, although surrounded by flames. It also survived urban renewal and remains the heart of the city.

     Walking the Trinity Royal Heritage Conservation Area, the city’s historic district, so designated in 1982, gives one a real feel for the city. Here you’ll find Victorian brick buildings built after the fire of 1877 housing shops, restaurants, pubs, art galleries, other businesses, as well as private homes.

     Walk along the Waterfront  to see the harbor activity. Look back for the skyline. The   Coast Guard station is right in the middle of the activity. The Chamber of Commerce is just up from the waterfront.It houses sculptures and a unique library on the second level. A small park with a big ole bronze moose is across the street.

      There is much to see and do in St. John. A quick Google search will give you a rundown of hotels in the city.

HAVANA TID BITS

                                         A Great Visit

       There are many modes of transportation besides the yellow cabs; there are bike-taxis, horse drawn taxis, bicycles, and the adorable cococabs. People hitchhike all the time, especially out of the city. Obviously it is safe to do so and most all vehicles stop to pick up someone if they have the room.

    Traffic never slows. Pedestrians obviously do not have the right of way. However, we never saw an accident. Of course speed limits are slow, probably averaging about 40 miles an hour. There are very few traffic lights in Havana.

    Walking can be hazardous because of the conditions of the sidewalks. Havana has little pollution, which was a pleasant surprise.     

    Music was everywhere, all the time. It is nearly impossible to dine without music. Panhandlers are nearly non-existent. 

    The city is full of parks of all sizes and there are many many statues. Plazas abound. The island is lush and green, and extremely clean. Litter does not exist.

     The only part of the old city wall still standing is near the train station. The harbor had some pretty rusty ships at anchor. In the industrial area there were thousands of containers, many full size, but many also about half size. Also there were many oil storage tanks.

     A toilet seat outside of hotels seemed to be missing much of the time. It was smart to carry tissues or T P when away from the hotel.

     The old cars are easy to maintain. Even though parts may not be available they are easy to reproduce. The Russian cars are often cut up to make trucks or vans.

    Riding through decaying parts of town I noticed wires strung like spider webs out of windows, exposed to the outside, running loop after loop to somewhere else. It made me wonder who paid the electric bill, if in fact such a bill exists. Then again in some of these same parts of town were lovely old wrought-iron railings around balconies, which I’m not sure I’d want to step out onto.

    In the countryside I noted horses, goats, and cows grazing with no restraints and many times no fences. If there was a fence it was a flimsy line or two of wire.

     Cuba is a country of contradictions and surprises. Our trip was extensive getting us well out of Havana. People were friendly. Young people were open and spoke without a sense of fear. I would loved to have stayed a few more days and Cuba is definitely on my return-to list.

TRINIDAD, CUBA

                              Delightful Spanish City

           On our way to Trinidad we stopped at a hacienda in a valley for a scrumptious lunch. Afterward I asked one of our male travelers if he was going to climb the tower located on the grounds. We tackled it together and  I recall were the only ones in our small group to do so.

     Legend says two brothers were in competition for this property. One said he’d build a tower as high as the well was deep. Water never was found, but the tower exists today.

     We climbed the 136 steps to the top of the 142-foot high tower. What a fantastic view from the top! It was pretty windy but we were well enclosed. Some of the steps were a bit wobbly, but we really didn’t have any trouble.

     This area is known for its lace work and fine linens. The handwork was exquisite---and so reasonable.

      Trinidad (1514), in the lee of the Escambray, is maintained as a living museum, as it is pretty much as the Spanish left it. The city reached its peak in the mid 19^th century during the sugar boom. It is Cuba’s crown jewel of its colonial cities. It seems as though time has stood still here. This is where I really felt that I was in a time warp, and it was a bit surreal.     

      Ballast stones from sailing ships of days gone by paved the streets. These cobbled streets are paved with a slight V in the center. Logic says this would be for drainage, but legend says the first governor had one leg longer than the other. When he walked down the middle of the street, with his longest leg in the V, he was level and was able to walk without a limp.

     Situated on a low hill the city catches the ocean breezes, and the doors of homes reflect that with postigos, small wooden louvered windows in the center of doors to allow the breezes to flow through.

     The cobbled, narrow, slightly hilly streets are lined with pastel painted homes with tile roofs. Balconies are decorated with fancy wrought iron rails. The entire city is a national monument, which disallows any architectural changes to buildings.

     We saw many mule drawn two wheeled carts. Some of us walked down a side street where some construction was going on, and the mule-carts were hauling sand. Vaqueros (cowboys) rode horseback in Plaza Mayor around the white iron fence that surrounded the small park in the center of the square. We even saw a fellow walking a pig on a leash. I suspect it was going to be someone’s dinner.

     The soil is very red and a terra cotta pottery business is alive and well. At the museum we learned that the roof tiles were formed and rounded on the thigh of workers.

     A mild climate, fertile soil, and easy access to the Caribbean favored Trinidad’s agricultural

Plaza Major

(sugar) and commercial growth. Plaza Mayor was the heart of the original settlement. It was ringed by a cathedral (1892) and four museums, once mansions of wealthy colonialists.

     Holy Trinity Church is the largest in the country and houses the most valuable icons. It took 200 craftsmen three years to carve the wooden altar (1812). Seven saints decorate the altar and St. Francis is 400 years old.

     By the 19^th century Cienfuegos with a better harbor surpassed Trinidad, which started a slow steady decline for the city. In the 1950s Bastista declared the city a jewel and tourism started to be promoted. The town was named a national monument in 1965, and in 1988 named a UNESCO World Heritage Site

     After walking up to the square, our first stop was the Museo Romantico. The foyer was filled with plants and potted palms. Cameras were not allowed inside the museum and had to be checked in a cabinet at the entrance.

     The museum had the most gorgeous carved cedar ceiling dating to 1770. The tall walls did not go all the way to the ceiling leaving an air space between the wall top and the arches of the rooms.  The upper level of the building was added in 1804. Italian marble floors were throughout. The spectacular wainscoting in the rooms was all hand painted. The detail was unbelievable. The family had 12 children and 20 slaves, so basically 34 people lived in the house.

     I have never seen such a stunning wrought-iron bed! I also was intrigued with the kitchen. Baccarat crystal chandeliers and the Meissen porcelains were gorgeous. It was truly a treasure of exquisite antiques. 

     From the Plaza it was only a short walk to the craft market, where there was lots of lace, linen and crochet jackets and children’s dresses. There were some nice woodcarvings as well as some tourist junk.

     We went down a cobbled alley where we stopped in a courtyard to hear some music and enjoy another local drink served in small clay pot/cups. I didn't get the name of the drink.

    We had a delicious lunch at Eljigve, the oldest home in Trinidad (1614).

    I was most taken with this lovely city and hope to return there someday.