PANAMA'S MOUNTAINS

                                    A Trip into the Mountains

   The mountain valleys of Panama are popular places for well to do Americans and South Americans to buy property and build retirement or second homes. The large stucco homes with tile roofs we saw in El Valle de Anton were large on big manicured fenced lots. From what we were told that is quite typical for this segment of the population. The stucco of the few smaller homes were painted with pastel colors.

   It is  the world's largest inhabited volcanic crater! Once a crater lake, this quiet village became home to Indians from the surrounding mountains who have been there for thousands of years. The flora and fauna of two continents converge along this unique land bridge.  It has a special micro-climate with its cloud forest and exotic animals and plants.

   The rich volcanic soil and year-round spring-like climate allows almost every species of plant and animal to thrive in the environment. There are countless species of flowers and trees, and hundreds of species of mammals and reptiles, as well as an incredible 500 species of birds that live in Anton's Valley.

  My perception of this valley was totally blown away. I pictured a caldera where one could see the edges and a small village in the center. Wrong! The caldera is so huge that all one can see are mountains and if one did not know he would just think he was in a valley. The ride up 2000-feet to the valley was a pretty one with many fruit trees close to the road and scattered houses that did not appear to be part of any village. I saw many banana, papaya, mango, persimmon, and palm trees.

   When we stopped at a zoo we found the temperature delightful. The rustic zoo was fun and  lovely. We had no bug or mosquito problem. Paths were well packed dirt and dry. The roots of many of the trees appear to be rather shallow as there were visible small roots everywhere. It is probably because of the frequent rain and the avoidance of deep watering.  The tropical landscape and flowers everywhere was a delight. Impatiens in all colors abounded as did hibiscus, torch ginger, anthuriums, jasmine, bougainvillea, croton and many more I could not identify.  It seemed strange to see a grove of pine trees and another of eucalyptus among all the flowering and tropical landscape. I saw hedges made out of any flower and some you’d never think about training as a hedge!  And I can’t forget the many kinds of cacti growing about. There was some good signage, especially in the frog house, and there was some very primitive hand painted signage and then there was also none. There was a wonderful frog house with 21 different frogs in large glassed enclosures and it was a thrill to actually see Panama’s icon: the tiny golden frog.

   El Valle’s one main road is called Avenida Central or Calle Central and runs east-west across the town. A main landmark is the town's public market, open 7 days a week.

           

The Legend of The Sleeping Indian Girl

   Luba was the youngest daughter of the Chief Urraca, leader of one of the Guaymi Tribes, of the sun-kissed mountains surrounding the crater.

  They called her air flower, and they knew her as a simple but rebellious young Indian girl: an inheritance of  her strong race, that fought against the Spanish conquerors for years. What Luba least expected was that she would fall madly in love with one of the Spanish officials who occupied her town. It was thus that Luba

undermined Yaravi, a brave warrior of her tribe who loved her with all his soul, but that love was not reciprocated. Seeing it was impossible to win her love, Yaravi takes his life, throwing himself into the emptiness from the height of a mountain before the sad and perplexed stare of air flower.

   Luba, not wanting to betray her town, renounces her love for the foreigner and, crying desperately, mourning her misfortune, loses herself among the bushes, extends herself on the savanna and dies.

   It was then that the hills and the valleys, in a melancholic embrace, covered her and decided to perpetuate her figure, sculpting it in a majestic mountain to remember her always.

           

SOME STRANGE TRADITIONS--OR NOT

                         Mostly Down Under  Traditions  

  Parts of Europe do some strange trimming to their linden trees. I’ve seen this several places and am always in awe, but it was most prominent in Belgium. Maybe it was just the right time of the year. The Linden tree is   deciduous so the trimming seemed severe and was most obvious. The linden tree is a decorative fragrant tree that can be long lived and grow big. It appears that the severely trimmed trees are meant to be kept medium height so they can be trimmed each year. The best answer I could ever get anywhere was, “It’s a European thing.”

  In the days of the English witch hunts the thumbs of a supposed witch was tied to her big toes before being thrown into the water, river or whatever. If she floated she was guilty and if she sank she was innocent—either way she was dead.

         

  Pierre Cardin described The Queen Victoria Building (QVC) as the most beautiful shopping centre in the world. Built in 1898 and occupying an entire city block the building is an outstanding example of Byzantine architecture. It was built to replace the original Sydney Markets. Remodeled in the 1930s it has housed a concert hall, City Library, and municipal offices. Refurbished in 1984 it now accommodates more than 200 shops. With a series of domes and domelets and exquisite stained glass windows along with extensive wood paneling the building has retained the turn-of-the-century charm. When in Sydney, Australia the QVC should be on your to see list.

            

    If you’ve been where sugar grows you may know that sugarcane is cut once a year and then regrows. After the third cutting the fields are burned and the remains plowed under.  Beans are then planted to replace the nitrogen to the soil, and then the next year sugarcane is planted to start the cycle over again.

            Australia’s Vegemite is made at the very end of the sugar process.

           

 The story was framed in our Sydney, Australia hotel room. The second part of the building was built of sandstone with Georgian flattened brick arches over the windows. Built as six terrace houses, it was known as Scarlett’s Cottages. Scarlett was a well-known lady of the night who lived and died in the area.

            Scarlett was Eric’s one true love, but although in a moment of thoughtlessness she declared her love for him, she did not mean it. However, Eric died before learning of Scarlett’s lie. It is well known that to this day Eric wanders the halls and rooms of the cottages searching and calling for Scarlett, who had met an untimely and tragic death. On occasion Eric has appeared in front of unknowing hotel staff members, questioning them of Scarlett’s whereabouts.

   We were staying in a haunted hotel! However, none of us ran into Eric’s ghost during our stay.

A really clean modern restroom:

 Our van driver detoured into Ashburton to show us an ultra modern restroom. The clean public unisex toilets were all push button. A button was pushed to close the door. Another button was pushed to dispense the TP. The toilet flushed only when the sensor activated soap and faucet were in use! Another button opened the door.

  A sign warns that at 9 minutes you will be given a warning and at 10 minutes the door will automatically open--- best that you be finished with your business! Really a very neat system. We again saw the same system at Queenstown, New Zealand Botanical Gardens.

                                   

NASSAU, BAHAMAS SITES

                                        Popular Nassau Sites

    Fort Fincastle. Lord Dunmore established the fort in 1793 on Bennett’s Hill as a lookout for pirates and invaders. The fort shaped like a paddle wheel was never used because Nassau was never attacked. Three cannon are still in place, although are not original. Later the fort was used as a lighthouse and then as a signal tower.

       The views from the fort are spectacular. There also is a 128-foot high round concrete water tower in the area.

   St Andrew Kirk Dated from 1810 the church has been through many changes over the years. In 1864 it was enlarged and a bell tower added. The Ref community considerably increased by the end of the 18^th century when the British colonists who had remained loyal to the British crown in the revolutionary war in the United States were forced to leave. Also a substantial number of Scottish Presbyterians settled in the Bahamas in 1783. In 1798 they formed the St. Andrew’s Society, and in 1810 the foundation stone of St. Andrew’s church was laid.

    Christ Church This stone Cathedral in simple Gothic-style with a square tower was started in 1837 and was consecrated in 1845. It replaces four earlier churches stretching back to about 1670. The interior has a fine set of stained glass windows (1868) an impressive organ and a mahogany ceiling. The first church was destroyed by the Spaniards, the second built in 1695 was destroyed by the French and Spanish invasion of 1703. The third church was made of wood and the fourth and present stone church dates to 1753-54. A steeple was added in 1774 but removed in 1827

   Of particular interest are the memorial plaques from the 1800s documenting the life histories of local residents and their deaths in shipwrecks, of yellow fever and after childbirth.

  
 Government House Erected in 1801 the original building was badly damaged in a 1929 hurricane and had to be demolished.  The present building was finished in 1932. The statue of Columbus was imported in 1830. The interior was decorated by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor in 1940.

  Statue at The British Colonial Hilton was built on the site of Old Fort Nassau (1695), once the home of the notorious pirate, Blackbeard. After the British Crown drove Blackbeard out, Woodes Rogers, was appointed Governor. Now, his life-like, swashbuckling image with sword drawn and cloak swirling around him stands at the front of the hotel as a vivid reminder of Nassau's turbulent past.

    Captain Woodes Rogers was appointed Royal Governor of the Bahamas in 1717. Before becoming Governor, Rogers was a privateer from England sent on expeditions in order to harass Spanish colonies throughout the Atlantic coast. From his successful expeditions he brought many valuables back to England. Soon, his focus remained on suppressing pirates from the Caribbean.

   With all monetary and military resources from England at his disposal, Captain Woodes Rogers also had a powerful ally: the king’s pardon. Pirates were fully pardoned if they would agree to cease pirate activity immediately. In the end, those who chose amnesty would later join Rogers in confronting pirates slow to surrender that often would end with sentencing and hanging. Eventually, Rogers was able to establish a well-organized government and eventually expel all pirates from Nassau

   
 Once a private estate, the Graycliff Hotel is an elegantly renovated 260 year-old British Colonial style hotel that sits next door to Government House. The hotel has a history that dates back to the 1700, the year it was built by privateer John Howard Graysmith. Legend says it once served as the officers’ mess for the West Indian Garrison. Established in 1844 as Nassau’s first inn, the Graycliff Hotel has attracted many of the rich, famous and infamous alike; notably European royalty, government leaders such as Winston Churchill and the notorious Al Capone have all made appearances at Graycliff.

   In recent years a Canadian couple bought Graycliff and completely renovated the mansion and constructed the first swimming pool in the Bahamas surrounded with lush tropical gardens. The décor is a blend of old and new.

  The Graycliff Hotel is also home to the Graycliff Restaurant where the Graycliff Cellar has a collection of over 250,000 bottles of quality wines.

  

 The Nassau library was constructed as a Gaol in 1798-99. The three story octagonal shaped building held prisoner cells on the first two floors. On the third floor a bell hung that summoned House Assembly members to meetings.

  In 1879 the building became the Nassau Public Library and Museum.  The old prisoner cells now hold books, charts, artifacts and etchings.

   The Vendue House on Bay Street was erected about 1769 but only had a roof over rounded pillars. It was erected as a convenience for traders selling their goods.  This also included the sale of slaves, cattle and imported goods.  In 1913 the building was remodeled and a second story added.  Today it houses the Pompey Museum telling the story of slaves in the Bahamas.

You may also want to read: Queen’s Staircase 10-12-11, Adastra Gardens and zoo 12-21-11, dolphins  & ray swim 5-15-11  

A BIT OF BAHAMIAN HISTORY

                              Nassau, A Popular Port 

      When I took my granddaughter to the Bahamas as a graduation present, it had been years since my first trip which concentrated on the out islands. Then only two and a half days had been spent in Nassau, so a little review of my diary refreshed my memory. The Bahamas is an archipelago of 700 islands and 2400 uninhabited cays and islets extending 720 miles. It is just fifty miles off the Florida coast. The capital is Nassau on New Providence Island.  The Arawak Indians were the first inhabitants and the first British settlement took place in the 17^th century.

    No longer a sleepy little town that often characterizes its sister islands, Nassau stands out for its high-energy atmosphere and dynamic attitude. The capital city of the Bahamas with a bustling port, Nassau’s history can be traced back to days of the legendary pirate Blackbeard.

     Beautifully preserved cathedrals, pastel-colored Georgian buildings and 18th-century fortresses collide with bouncing jitneys, street vendors and duty-free shops and occasionally fine shops. Historic Bay Street is great for local markets, pubs and cafes, while the nearby straw market offers unique crafts and Potter’s Cay is the place for fresh produce, conch and fish.

   I was anxious to introduce her to a new culture and show her the city. We had a fabulous time and pretty much covered the entire island, often walking and walking. We enjoyed riding the local jitney to and from our distant  hotel.

     I was happy to find many positive improvements such as the lack of litter and friendly people instead of pesky and annoying people trying to sell you something or take you for a ride..

Music

Throughout the islands, music is woven deeply into the fabric of daily life. Musical traditions reflect both the impact of history on the islands and a homegrown, distinctively national character. Blues and spirituals made their way down from the American South and took on a Bahamian flavor---in breezy shore-side church choirs where "rhyming spirituals" are sung, and on homemade guitars in the hands of virtuoso performers.

Junkanoo, goombay and rake 'n' scrape all incorporate the handclapping and drum rhythms of West African dance music. Goombay is a secular Bahamian tradition, danceable music full of stories about love and other daily dramas.

Rake 'n' scrape bands are purely instrumental. A carpenter's saw, a goatskin drum and an accordion are all traditional rake 'n' scrape instruments.

True Bahamian

Bahamian English is a fascinating mixture of the Queen's diction, African influences and island lingo. Unfamiliar sounding words you'll hear on the streets and beaches may be survivors from the early English settlement (true Shakespearian English!), echoes of Africa or local slang. The "h" is often dropped in daily speech ('ouse for house or t'anks for thanks). Conversation is easy here – the distinctive sounds of daily speech are all part of a true Bahamian experience. At times it seemed as if I were listening to a foreign language.

Food

Fresh seafood lovers can appreciate the Bahamian fondness for conch (pronounced "konk") that is the most popular seafood in The Bahamas. The meat of conch is firm and white, and local restaurants have found delectable ways to serve it. Conch may be served uncooked with lime juice, steamed and added to other dishes such as soup or salads, or deep-fried, which is known as “cracked conch”. This seafood can be found in some form at just about every traditional restaurant in the Bahamas. Traditional desserts feature coconut. The Bahamas certainly do not have a shortage of coconut trees, and shredded coconut is found on just about everything!

Next time Nassau sites.

BELIZE

                 Get Away from the Main City
 

  Cruise ships have made people aware of Belize, but when I went there for the first time two decades ago people’s response was, “You’re going where?” 

When I responded, “Belize, the old British  Honduras,” then I'd get recognition.

    Belize is a small ruggedly beautiful country in Central America. The Caribbean surrounds it on the east.  Guatemala borders on the south and most of the west, and Mexico borders the northwest. Nearly one third of the country’s 200,000 inhabitants live in Belize City which is located on the northern third of the east coast.

   The country’s multi-racial diversity include: Creole of African descent; Mestizo are Spanish-Mayan; Caribs, also called Garifuna; with smaller groups of East Indian, Landino, and Spanish. Mayan Indians make up 8% of the population.

   Half of the country’s 9000 square miles is surrounded by water with numerous cays and three atolls dotting the coastline. The northern part of the country is flat rising gradually to a coastal plain running the length of the country. About one half of the mainland’s 8600 square miles (rest are atoll) is used for agriculture. To the south and west the terrain rises dramatically to 3000’ above sea level into the Mayan Mountains. This terrain is rugged with rivers running from the mountains through the plains onward to the sea. White water rapids and 1000’ waterfalls are interspersed in the rivers.

   Rain forest, Savannah, jungle, forest, and mangrove swamps all add to the land diversity. Seventy percent of the country is covered with forest. Much of the jungle is under government protection. Bladen Nature Reserve covers 92,000 acres in the Mayan Mountains. Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary is 102,000 acres.

    To the East lies the second largest reef in the world and the largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere. The reef comprises 175 off shore cays and three atolls. Mexico has one atoll and together these four atolls are the only atolls in North America.

   The flora, fauna, and birds are as varied as the scenery. The only jaguar preserve in the world is in Belize.

The climate is sub-tropical with a high in summer of 95 with a winter low of 70s. The official language is English and all instruction in school is in English. Spanish, a strong second, is taught in the lower grades to further bilingualism. Creole is also widely spoken.

   The country’s tallest building is in the Mayan ruins at Caracol not in Belize City nor the capitol of Belmopan. The largest city, Belize City, like New Orleans, lies three feet below sea level.

In 1961 England made it clear that Belize could become independent at any time but fearful of being overrun by its neighbors Belize maintained British ties until 1963 when a new constitution provided self-government.     
   A declaration of independence was declared in 1981.

My first trip to Belize was for a research project and our home was 32 miles off shore on Turneffe atoll. This largest of the country’s three atolls, contains 4000 acres of jungle. The mosquitoes were so thick and troublesome that we turned around after a very short jaunt into the jungle. However, our resort was bug free, had a generator to produce all its electricity and reverse osmosis machinery to produce a clean water supply.

   Our group was split in half. We worked the project alternate mornings and afternoons and snorkeled on the other half of the day. The marshes and lagoons are just full of diverse marine life where 46 species of hard coral grow plus many varieties of soft corals and sponges. We snorkeled a different location each day. It was the best snorkeling I’ve ever done—and that includes two trips to  the Great Barrier Reef where I’m sure we were taken to the most popular tourist areas.

  At BlackBird Cay on the atoll I thought I had found paradise. The lush remote island paradise was surrounded by clear turquoise water. The warm Belizean sun bathed deserted sandy beaches. The serenity of the unspoiled natural beauty was awesome. Our thatched roof cabanas were   complete with bath, and a little veranda complete with chairs and hammock. The cool ocean breezes cooled all the buildings through large screened windows that had a drop down shutter for rainy or stormy days. Without the cool sea breezes it would have been very hot. The South Seas atmosphere was great fun for our couple week stay that was truly a wonderful vacation—working or not.

     It’s a shame that cruise ship passengers are in port only long enough to see Belize City which is like any other large Central or South American City. Do I need to say more!