BELIZE

                 Get Away from the Main City
 

  Cruise ships have made people aware of Belize, but when I went there for the first time two decades ago people’s response was, “You’re going where?” 

When I responded, “Belize, the old British  Honduras,” then I'd get recognition.

    Belize is a small ruggedly beautiful country in Central America. The Caribbean surrounds it on the east.  Guatemala borders on the south and most of the west, and Mexico borders the northwest. Nearly one third of the country’s 200,000 inhabitants live in Belize City which is located on the northern third of the east coast.

   The country’s multi-racial diversity include: Creole of African descent; Mestizo are Spanish-Mayan; Caribs, also called Garifuna; with smaller groups of East Indian, Landino, and Spanish. Mayan Indians make up 8% of the population.

   Half of the country’s 9000 square miles is surrounded by water with numerous cays and three atolls dotting the coastline. The northern part of the country is flat rising gradually to a coastal plain running the length of the country. About one half of the mainland’s 8600 square miles (rest are atoll) is used for agriculture. To the south and west the terrain rises dramatically to 3000’ above sea level into the Mayan Mountains. This terrain is rugged with rivers running from the mountains through the plains onward to the sea. White water rapids and 1000’ waterfalls are interspersed in the rivers.

   Rain forest, Savannah, jungle, forest, and mangrove swamps all add to the land diversity. Seventy percent of the country is covered with forest. Much of the jungle is under government protection. Bladen Nature Reserve covers 92,000 acres in the Mayan Mountains. Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary is 102,000 acres.

    To the East lies the second largest reef in the world and the largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere. The reef comprises 175 off shore cays and three atolls. Mexico has one atoll and together these four atolls are the only atolls in North America.

   The flora, fauna, and birds are as varied as the scenery. The only jaguar preserve in the world is in Belize.

The climate is sub-tropical with a high in summer of 95 with a winter low of 70s. The official language is English and all instruction in school is in English. Spanish, a strong second, is taught in the lower grades to further bilingualism. Creole is also widely spoken.

   The country’s tallest building is in the Mayan ruins at Caracol not in Belize City nor the capitol of Belmopan. The largest city, Belize City, like New Orleans, lies three feet below sea level.

In 1961 England made it clear that Belize could become independent at any time but fearful of being overrun by its neighbors Belize maintained British ties until 1963 when a new constitution provided self-government.     
   A declaration of independence was declared in 1981.

My first trip to Belize was for a research project and our home was 32 miles off shore on Turneffe atoll. This largest of the country’s three atolls, contains 4000 acres of jungle. The mosquitoes were so thick and troublesome that we turned around after a very short jaunt into the jungle. However, our resort was bug free, had a generator to produce all its electricity and reverse osmosis machinery to produce a clean water supply.

   Our group was split in half. We worked the project alternate mornings and afternoons and snorkeled on the other half of the day. The marshes and lagoons are just full of diverse marine life where 46 species of hard coral grow plus many varieties of soft corals and sponges. We snorkeled a different location each day. It was the best snorkeling I’ve ever done—and that includes two trips to  the Great Barrier Reef where I’m sure we were taken to the most popular tourist areas.

  At BlackBird Cay on the atoll I thought I had found paradise. The lush remote island paradise was surrounded by clear turquoise water. The warm Belizean sun bathed deserted sandy beaches. The serenity of the unspoiled natural beauty was awesome. Our thatched roof cabanas were   complete with bath, and a little veranda complete with chairs and hammock. The cool ocean breezes cooled all the buildings through large screened windows that had a drop down shutter for rainy or stormy days. Without the cool sea breezes it would have been very hot. The South Seas atmosphere was great fun for our couple week stay that was truly a wonderful vacation—working or not.

     It’s a shame that cruise ship passengers are in port only long enough to see Belize City which is like any other large Central or South American City. Do I need to say more!

GATEWAY TO THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

                           Cairns, Australia
             Cairns is pronounced cans as the ‘r’ is silent. Although Brisbane is the capitol of Queensland, Cairns is affectionately referred to as the tropical capitol. It is the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef.

My impression was that of a sleepy tropical town, even though the population was 73,000.

            Settled in 1876, it became a town in 1885, and a city in 1932 with a population of approximately 10,000.  We were told that the older homes were built on stilts in order to catch the sea breezes. It is too hot here for many crops to grow, but sugarcane, macadamia, and pineapple do well and there are many such plantations around. Rain evaporates rapidly producing high humidity.

            I’ve snorkeled the Great Barrier Reef twice. The second experience was the better of the two. The Coral Sea borders Australia on the north.  It was a short drive from our hotel to the waterfront where we boarded a catamaran for a trip out to Green Island, 12-15 miles off the coast.

Catamarans are the most common means of transport, probably because of their shallow draft, and because they lend itself to the spaciousness of the accommodations. The catamaran guide informed us that Captain Cook named Green Island which is a natural mature coral cay.

The island is small and houses a restaurant, gift shop, dive shop, toilets, design lockers, and a swimming pool. The tropical foliage lends a very relaxing and calm atmosphere, and there are sandy beaches for swimming. This was my first trip. Green Island is very commercial and the best I can say is that one experiences the reef.

My travel buddy  and I walked the two mile perimeter of the island walking in shallow water.

After lunch  only five of us took a motor boat to the reef to snorkel. Once again  my prescription mask again came in handy.

         The 1258-mile-long Great Barrier Reef  lies 12-32 miles off shore. It protects hundreds of small off shore islands on Australia’s east coast from Brisbane north to Cairns, and the reef itself is protected. The reef contains 400 species of coral. Because I didn’t have a buddy I didn’t wander too far away from the boat, but I was the last one out of the water. The water was shallow in many spots, and there was some current so I was glad I had my fins. I saw several corals I’ve never seen before. The water was warm and the fish were fairly plentiful. It was good snorkeling, but not as good as that I had done in Belize

Snorkeling was a new experience for many people on both trips. On my second trip it was September vs November and we were told that box jellyfish wash down from the rivers and are near the shoreline. This deadliest of all jellyfish has only a fist size body but 4 meter long tentacles. Some beaches enclose a netted area for safe swimming.

             We waded out to a small motor boat that took us out to the waiting Rum Runner IV, a 55-foot catamaran. Thirty young adults joined us on the cat, so the boat was pretty full. It was an hour and a half ride out to the largest coral reef system in the world. 

Most of us were out on deck, and before long the wave splash got us pretty wet, and long before arriving at the reef we were soaking wet. Fortunately although it was a misty day, it was  a warm one. By the time we anchored and got in the water it was actually raining. The water was warm. The snorkeling was quite good.

I kind of swam around by myself, as most had not snorkeled before. The crew was most helpful. After getting everyone fitted with mask, snorkel, (I had my own) and some basic instructions, they took 2-3 at a time holding on to a life ring and towed them around over the reef. For the most part the beginners were thrilled to have had this experience. For me it was a good swim! 

Green Island is by far the most popular spot for tourist to visit the reef. It was way too commercial for me. There was no one around for my second trip to the reef and it was much more pleasant and ‘real’.

SWIM WITH DOLPHIN

SNORKELING HIGHLIGHTS and PETA

            If you read about my prescription mask months ago, you may recall that I’m claustrophobic so I do not scuba.

            In Belize we worked on the dolphin project part of each day and were told, “The snorkeling is great here in the lagoon. There are 46 species of hard coral growing in Belize plus many varieties of soft corals and sponges. We will snorkel around so you can see different places. The marshes and lagoons are just full of diverse marine life.”

            I have to start by saying that I’m no expert but I have snorkeled in may places around the world, including the Great Barrier Reef twice, and the very best has been in Belize.

We did snorkel every day, always in a different location. Sometimes the water was pretty deep, other times over a reef it seemed shallow enough to drag your belly over it if you didn’t suck that tummy in. The snorkeling was always great. One day I hung suspended staring at a barracuda. We both just stayed still and looked each other in the eye. Eventually I backed off and swam away.

The water was warm and crystal clear. Each day I thought the snorkeling could never be as good as the day before.  But it was!

At Lighthouse Reef it was like swimming in an aquarium!  Every kind of coral must grow here. I saw all kinds I had never seen before. What a thrill to just stay suspended over the reef and watch all the activity. This is positively the best snorkeling I’ve ever done.

 This might be a good time to relate one of my favorite adventures.

Peta is a female bottlenose dolphin who lives among the atolls of Belize. She used to be called Peter until he was discovered to be a she.

            At Lighthouse Cay we all swam around for about an hour over the reef in the aquarium-like clear warm water, but although Peta is known to hang out here she was nowhere in sight.

            We were all actually back on the boat when our researcher yelled, “Peta! There she is. She came to see us after all.”

Before anyone got back in the water we were told, “Peta loves to play. Because too much splashing and kicking is a signal to her to play, move in the water slowly. She is big and she could create a dangerous situation if she gets excited. You may enter the water 3-4 at a time and swim around with her for a bit, then when those get out of the water another 3-4 can go in.”

While I was in the water Peta headed for her favorite spot—the anchor. I watched her nose around in the sand and eat her find of fish. Then she came back to the surface and swam close to give me a friendly nudge as she circled by. I swam around the boat several times with Peta within an arm’s reach, but I never tried to touch  or harass her in any way.  What a thrill!

No one knows for sure where she goes or what Peta does at night, or even if she socializes with other dolphins. She is always seen alone and she obviously likes to socialize with humans.

In fact she got between a so-so swimmer and the ladder blocking the swimmer’s exit from the water as if saying, ‘stay a bit longer and play’. When the swimmer began to panic the researcher jumped in the water to divert Peta’s attention so the swimmer could get aboard the boat.

Swimming with Peta was the highlight of an absolutely fabulous exciting day!