SWISS ALPS

                   Villars, a Small Mountain Village

            We expected to see snow in Switzerland, but in June really weren’t thinking of hiking in snow and slush! I’d hiked part of the Swiss Alps a few years previously, but this trip was full of surprises. Of course we were in a different part of the country.

 In Villars everyone spoke French and few understood, much less spoke, any English. We got creative with language, but the time we asked 4 different people for directions to a grocery store we got four different answers. Finally my daughter asked about a market---ah the magic word! No one understood grocery.

            Villars is full of grape vineyards; running up the terraced hillsides they occupy every available space. An hour and a half from Geneva, Villars-sur-Ollon is situated on a sunny south-facing terrace high above the Rhone valley in the heart of the Vaud Alps with breathtaking views of the Dents-du-Midi and Mont Blanc. With traditional chalet-style houses and hotels, Villars, at 4100-feet has the charm of a small village, which it is.

            This huge ski area has 45 ski lifts. There are 300 km of sign-posted footpaths in the area. Hiking signs are posted in time, not in distance; as is true for much of Europe. Mountain biking also is a popular sport. Population of the area increases seven times in winter! One can imagine what a traffic problem such an influx of people would present.

            Throughout this trip all hotel rooms had balconies with fantastic views. What a surprise to learn that we could fill our water bottles from any fountain in town. The fountains were not fancy but certainly useful. The water from the faucet was cold as it comes from the mountains.

            In Villars we had an orientation walk around town to learn where everything was located. We also rode trains through lovely wooded uphill areas, buses, and a cog train up to a summit. We hiked in snow & slush a couple of days and hiked along rivers. We passed several small lakes and took a break by one fairly large one, We also hiked through a couple small villages when we arrived for lunch, a wine tasting or a museum.

            We learned about Rivella, a carbonated drink made from milk serum, which after much discussion we decided must be whey. The drink comes in bottles and is a creamy-champagne color. I likened it much to a crème soda. It was delightfully refreshing and is unique to this part of Switzerland.

It was a surprise to see hundreds of crocuses popping out of the ground and blooming right next to a big patch of snow. Although there was a lot of snow in June it was melting very rapidly. Ice on the lake in the morning was all melted by late afternoon.       

            One day after a medium hike we stopped at our local guide’s summer cabin in the mountains to learn how to make fondue. It was yummy and we enjoyed 2-3 hours of good eating and camaraderie.

We told stories and learned much about the Swiss mountain culture.

            Our local guide was a delightful woman. Since I often lagged at the end of the crowd she was most attentive making sure I heard all of her explanations. Our weather was clear, warm and sunny—really ideal for hiking! It is hard to surpass the Swiss landscape. It is simply gorgeous and we had a great time enjoying it while walking along. Photo ops were plentiful! It was a wonderful few days!

BRUGES, BELGIUM

                                   Wonderful Ancient City 

Bruges is located in the old heart of Europe, between the triangle of London, Paris, and Amsterdam. Just for confusion’s sake Bruges is also spelled Brugge, although the computer likes the former spelling, the latter spelling is Flemish. Belgium is one of Europe's great secrets. Almost lost between Germany and France in the middle of Europe, tiny Belgium is easily overlooked. The city is pronounced a couple of different ways. BROO-ghah, is how the Flemish, who live in this part of Belgium, pronounce their town. The French half of the country, and English speakers, call it Bruges broozh. However you pronounce it, the name comes from the Viking word for "wharf." In other words---it's been a trading center for a long time.

            Our hotel couldn’t have been better located as we were only a 2-3 minute walk from The Burg, the heart of the city. Although a small country, Belgium has one of the highest population densities in Europe. An efficient rail and road network allows large numbers of people to move around the country each day. Bruges, with Renoir canals, graceful bridges, fairy-tale turrets overhead, fanciful gilded architecture, vivid time-tunnel art, cobbled streets and stay-awhile cafés, I believe is one of the best cities in Belgium. It is truly picturesque, quaint and lovely with a non-hurried more leisurely pace.

The  church bells ring every fifteen minutes and at times the bell ringer plays a concert. We were in the area for one such hour-long concert on a Sunday. Nice! After a while you just don’t give the bells a second thought.

Originally a ninth-century fortress was built to protect the Flemish coast from marauding Vikings. Bruges today retains its reputation as one of the best-preserved Old World cities on the continent. Its museums hold some of the oldest and finest collections found anywhere. Its narrow, winding, cobbled streets meander through the city along-side a centuries-old canal system. With nearly every street lined with historic buildings, the best way to see this one-time capitol of Western Flanders is on foot. And walk we did for days, always going in a different direction!

Archeologists have found evidence that Bruges was the site of a Roman fortress, or at least an outpost.  Defensive mounds can be seen around the city boundaries. Old maps show a wall surrounding the city and some of the eight gates remain. An ancient powder tower that was part of the Middle Ages defensive system is still in place. In the 12^th century, Bruges was the economic capital of Europe, and the 14^th century was the Golden Age for the city.

In the 15th century, while England and France were slogging it out in a 100 years-long war, Bruges was at peace and the favored residence of the powerful and sophisticated Dukes of Burgundy. Commerce and the arts boomed. The trade center was due to a thriving wool and textile trade. Wealthy textile merchants built beautiful homes. The city, known for its fine lace work, has a long lace history dating back to the 15^th century.

By the 16th century, the city’s harbor silted up, and trade moved to the port of Antwerp thus collapsing the economy and ending Bruges' Golden Age. The town slumbered for generations and then, in the 20th century, tourists discovered its charms.

The very first day we learned that a Boys’ Choir was performing at the English Church that evening. Having missed the Vienna Boys’ Choir every time I’ve been in Vienna I was anxious to attend this concert. We left a briefing session just as the stupid questions started and  headed directly to the nearby church which we had scouted out earlier in the day. Warwickshire County Choristers was made up of 120 boys, ages 8-14. The director had a good sense of humor and the boys seemed to be having a fun time. They were touring, so we were lucky to be in the right place at the right time. What a bonus!   

TASMANIA

                                           An Island State

      From Texas to the land down under is a long trip. Australia is also about the size of the United States so when you make the trip think in terms of at least three weeks. I made two trips, five years apart, seeing different sections of the country each time with the North Island in New Zealand on one trip and the South Island on the other trip. Needless to say I have lots and lots of stories about those trips, many of which I’ve already posted.

     Our accommodations were different on each trip. The first time we stayed in 5-star hotels with never a whim lacking. But my favorite accommodations were the second trip when we stayed in small boutique/ B & B hotels. Although no complaints with the large hotels I just prefer the small friendly facilities.

     In Tasmania our boutique hotel had a widow’s walk which I’d never been on, although I’ve seen many on old Victorian homes. Our hotel, a stately mansion, was located on a hill in the heart of historic Battery Point. A short flight of stairs led up to the widow’s walk which was much larger than I thought it might be. The room was totally enclosed with glass windows and glass ceiling. There was a wonderful view of the entire city of Hobart and the harbor.  With the sun shining in everywhere the room was comfortably warm.

     Our hotel was an easy walk from Salamanca, the restored old waterfront. A series of aged warm sandstone warehouses line the uncrowded waterfront. The buildings, built in 1930, once stored apples, corn, and wheat for export. At one time there was a jam factory in one of the building.  Now the area houses trendy restaurants, sidewalk cafes, stores, and art studios.

      At the Salamanca Café we had lemmington for dessert---a lemon sponge cake covered with chocolate dough and coconut.  I thought it was a little dry, but ok. It certainly did not fall into the category to die for.

       There is much reclaimed land at Hobart’s harbor, and it took convicts 60 years to reclaim it all.

      Apples grow well in Tasmania, and many of the 250 varieties are exported to Japan.

       One end of the island is covered with heavily grown jungle/rain forest which is basically unexplored and  unpenetrable and certainly no tourist area.

      Hobart has a lot of history and a gorgeous botanical garden where walked many of the paths before sitting to watch colorful birds fly around. I particularly enjoyed the spectacular flora. It is a very walkable city. Hobart, capital of Tasmania, is Australia’s second oldest city. Tasmania is the country’s only island state.

VENICE ITALY

Venician  Memories   

Gondolas of Venice are for tourists. Water taxis get one around the city, and water boats transport all goods and supplies.  There are no cars or bikes in old Venice.

 

Venice is easy to walk, but the many alleyways make it real easy to get lost.

Italian coffee is so strong a spoon will stand up in it all by itself

Venice is at the northern end of the Adriatic Sea. The city is divided into six districts. Yellow signs around the city direct you to Piazza San Marcos, the Rialto Bridge, Pizzale Roma, or the train station.

The Grand Canal is the main waterway and is shaped like an inverted ‘S’. The train station is at one end, and Piazza San Marco (St Mark) at the other. You can cross the Grand Canal at three points

  The large St. Mark’s square is bordered  on three sides by stores that all are under a covered walkway.       The Basilicade de San Marco, a Byzantine church, and Doge’s Palace are on the fourth side.

All the paintings inside the church are done in mosaics and simply gorgeous! The many columns are of different colored marble, and there are many statues.

The elevator to the top of the church tower provides a fantastic view of St Mark’s Square.

This clock near the palace is several hundred years old. It strikes on the hour and the hand on the roman

numerals move every five minutes. It’s fascinating to watch the little people strike the bell. The bell slowly rotates so it is struck in a different spot each time.

The winged lion is the symbol of both St. Mark and of Venice.

Handmade lace was gorgeous and still made in Venice.

A very rude young vendor in the square.

The Rialto Bridge is the largest bridge in Venice and the only one with shops on it.

By the evening dinner hour the vendors are gone, and musicians play for the dinner crowd at the sidewalk restaurants.

A nice visit with a medical student from Madrid who was visiting the city and with whom we struck up a conversation.

We were lucky to stay in an old hotel in old Venice to get the real flavor of the city. There was no A/C, but with the window open at night we were sent to dreamland by the singing gondoliers below!