OSLO'S SHIP MUSEUMS

THE KON TIKI  MUSEUM

RA II

            In Oslo, Norway, the Kon Tiki Museum is just down the road from the Viking Museum.  Thor Heyerdahl, 1914-2002, sailed the balsa Kon Tiki, with six men, 4000 miles from Peru to Polynesia in 1947 to prove South Americans could sail to Polynesia. The Kon Tiki used a small oar as Heyerdahl wanted to sail the currents, not steer the craft. Unfortunately after 101 days Kon Tiki hung up on a coral reef in Tahiti.

             In 1970 he sailed the Ra II, made of papyrus reed with seven men across the Atlantic. In 1969 Ra I’s reeds became saturated after six or seven weeks during that voyage. Both original crafts are on display in the museum.  The reed boat, although as sturdy as, looked nothing like the attractive reed boat of Peru’s Eros people. This raft was strictly utilitarian.

            The museum is small but well done. It was exciting to see the actual craft I’d heard about in my youth as well as the Ra. All I can say is that it took a lot of courage to set out to sea in either craft, as they didn’t look all that sturdy to me.  

 THE VIKING MUSEUM

 Viking Museum is located on the Bygdey (sounds like big day) Peninsula. In 1913, a Swedish professor suggested a special building be constructed to house the Viking ships which were in storage at a University of Oslo facility. The Oseberg, excavated in 1904, was moved in 1926 and the two other ships, discovered in   in 1932. Three 9^th century ships are surrounded by artifacts from days of plunder. The ships were excavated from Oslofjorden. Made of oak, the ships were buried in blue clay which preserved them well. The boats were used as tombs for the nobility. Things needed for their journey including jewelry, furniture, and food were buried with the bodies.1867 and 1880, were moved

            The Oseberg, buried in 834 and found by accident in 1904, sports an elaborate dragon and serpent carvings. It took 30 people, 15 on each side, to row the 71-foot long, 15-foot wide boat. Considering their age, the boats were in incredible condition. The main boat had 90% of its original lumber! The mast was 49-foot high and carried a 120-square-meter sail. With its shallow draft it skimmed the water.

BRASS FIGURES TO PET SHINY

                       Good Luck Brass Figures

The first brass figure I came across 25 plus years ago was Tacca on my first trip to Victoria, BC. He sat in the patio area near the gift shop at Buchart Gardens. A large 1620 bronze boar, he is a copy of an original that was in the Straw Market in Florence, Italy. The Bucharts purchased him on one of their European trips.

The unique posture of Tacca suggests neither attack nor repose, but instead that he was awakened suddenly by the sound of the hunt. Years later a pond was added at the base with bronze frogs, snakes, and turtles among the plants. His snout is finely burnished by hundreds of visitors who have given him an affectionate rub for good luck. He is dedicated to all the children and animals who visit Buchart Gardens. I gave him a pat years later but  my last visit to the gardens was at night and I somehow missed him.

The statue of a little dog is one of the most photographed statues in Edinburgh, Scotland. The little Skye Terrier was the dog of an Edinburgh policeman known as a bobby. For five years he accompanied his master on his rounds all over the city. Then the policeman died. The gates to the cemetery proclaimed NO DOGS, and the gates were shut the day of the funeral before the little dog could get through them.

Each day after the one o’clock cannon firing at the fort above the Royal Mile the little dog walked to the coffeehouse his master often frequented. He was given a few scraps to eat, then he’d return to the cemetery to guard his master’s grave. After the first day when the cemetery caretaker found him and realized the dog was Greyfriars Bobby he ignored the no dogs rule. Every day for ten years the little dog would repeat his routine. Often on very cold winter nights a caring person would give him shelter in their home. When the little dog died, an exception was made to allow him to be buried beside his master. The little brass replica on a post on the Royal Mile is a favorite photo op.

At one end of the small park in Kiev, Ukraine stands a bronze statue of a little cat whose ears and

tail are shinny from the many rubbings they have received---a sign of good luck. Years ago the little cat smelled smoke and scratched the security people to warn its owners of a fire in time for all of them to make it to safety. But in all the confusion the little cat was forgotten and died of smoke inhalation.

 

In Havana, Cuba there is a life-size bronze statue of a French gentleman standing on the sidewalk outside Basilica Manor.

To touch either his beard or hand is supposed to bring good luck. Both were shiny from much rubbing.

I’ve seen many many statues in my travels, but these are the good-luck charmers of which I have fond memories.

ATIU,COOK ISLANDS

                        Atiu, A Cook Island Paradise

           Atiu is 130 miles northeast of Rarotonga. Early afternoon we loaded zodiacs to surf through the breakwater’s narrow opening to the beach where we were greeted by conch blowing and drum beating warriors. The whole island turned out to greet us, and friendly gals gave each of us a fresh flower lei. The fragrant plumeria lei is my favorite.

 We were ushered to their open-air recreation building where we were given a feast of delicious fresh island fruit served on palm fond woven plates. The friendly islanders put on a very good dance demonstration for us.

Then we loaded les truck for a ride around the island. Our transportation was literally a pickup truck with benches placed in the truck’s bed. This is the only means of transportation on the island. The island’s many narrow roads sometimes were nothing more than tire-tracks. The vegetation was lush and thick. Atiu’s high central plateau at 233 feet is a contrast to its neighboring flat islands. The island is surrounded by low swamps and a 66-foot high raised coral reef.  Dense forest grow on the west coast and low growing bird nest ferns provide a thick green cover. The cliffs of Makatea contain extensive limestone caves.

 Atiu’s 900 residents live in five villages, in clustered groups inland, different from Tahitians who live around the perimeter of their islands. In 1777 when Capt. Cook discovered this volcanic island he named it Island Enuamanu meaning land of birds. Coffee, taro, pineapple, papaya, and oranges are grown for export to New Zealand.

            While sipping  fresh coffee at the  small Atui Coffee Company we were told. “There are two types of coffee beans grown in the world: robusta and arabica. Robusta beans are dried in their shells absorbing caffeine and acid in the process. Because this would be too bitter to drink plain, these beans are combined with arabica beans which are dried without their shells. Arabica beans are only grown in a few places, Atiu, Kenya, and Costa Rica among them. The beans are separated by size before roasting to produce even roasting. The size of the bean does not determine flavor; they are all the same. The longer the bean is roasted the less caffeine and acid, as it is lost in the roasting process. That is why dark roasted coffee has less caffeine. From January to June the cherries are handpicked and within six hours the cherries are pulped to expose the bean. Atiu coffee is 100% sun dried.”

            In the center of the island we stopped where many years ago someone paced off the island north to south and east and west and determined this to be the center of the island. More recently surveyors repeated the process with modern instruments and found the original marker off by only two meters!

A docent accompanied us to several ancient sites saying, “These ancient temples are called maraes.  In times past the High Chiefs would gather here to decide if they would or would not go to war. There are three tribes on the island now, each ruled by its own chief. Leadership is passed on to the oldest son.”

            We stopped at Atiu’s only hotel. Tourism is in its infancy here so its four cabins were apparently adequate to accommodate the island’s 600 annual visitors. The owner, an Englishman, met my wife in New Zealand more than 25 years ago. She is Tahitian and after a holiday on Atiu in 1979 they decided to move here, arriving on the first plane. He built the quaint and comfortable bungalows using native woods.

            Our final stop on the island was at the small beach where Capt. Cook landed. The lovely island would be great for a relaxing vacation, but I’m afraid a bit too small for me not to suffer a little island fever.

FLANDERS FIELD, BELGIUM

                                 Flanders Field 
This seems like an appropriate time for this post in memory of all our veterans.

            Flanders Field is located in the medieval County of Flanders, which spans southern Belgium and north-west France.

            We were met on arrival by the American manager of the cemetery who told us, “The agency that maintains 24 cemeteries is called the American Battles Monument Commission and is an independent agency falling under the executive branch. General Pershing was the first executor of the organization.”

            While in the warm building he continued, “The crosses are made of Italian white marble. There are two Jewish Unknown Soldier markers in the cemetery. Nine days after Lindberg’s solo flight, he flew over the cemetery and dropped a bouquet of red poppies. The occupants of this cemetery were the first and last to act under foreign command—Belgium. There are no women buried here.” The first Memorial Day was in 1924.

            Of course during WW I no women served in the armed forces.          A crew of four maintains the cemetery. All the stones are washed first thing each week day with water and a soft brush. When a family member visits, the stone is dampened and engravings filled with Normandy sand. This gives a golden glow to the engravings and makes them stand out in photographs.

Battlefield

            The German military used poison gas for the first time on the Western Front which saw the beginning of ‘trench warfare’ that characterized this global war. The Battle of Passchendaele (third battle) ended when British, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand forces recaptured the Passchendaele ridge, east of the city but at tremendous loss. During three months of fighting

over 750,000 men lost their lives.     The American Cemetery and Memorial is the only American World War I cemetery in Belgium and is the smallest American cemetery in Europe. There are 368 American servicemen who died in Belgium buried or commemorated  here. The cemetery occupies a six acre site, and as with all Allied war cemeteries, the land was provided in perpetuity by the Belgian government.

The headstones are aligned in four symmetrical areas around the white stone chapel that stands in the center of the cemetery. The altar inside the chapel is made of black and white Grand Antique marble with draped flags on each side. A crusader's sword outlined in gold is above the altar. The chapel furniture is carved oak, stained black with white veining to harmonize with the altar. The side walls of the chapel are inscribed with the names of 43 missing American servicemen who have no known graves. The small chapel has a gorgeous ceiling.

Masses of graceful trees and shrubbery frame the burial area and screen it from passing traffic. At the ends of the paths leading to three corners of the cemetery are circular retreats, with benches and urns.         

During WW I, Canadian physician, Lt. Colonel John McCrae, is believed to have written this famous poem in May 1915 after witnessing the death the day before of his 22-year-old friend, Lieutenant Alexis Helmer.  The poppies referred to grew in profusion in Flanders in the disturbed earth of battlefields and cemeteries and thus became a symbol of Memorial Day, November 11, when WW I ended on the 11^th  day of the 11^th month at 11 AM.

            In Flanders fields the poppies blow
             Between the crosses, row on row,
             That mark our place; and in the sky
             The larks, still bravely singing, fly
             Scarce heard amid the guns below.

            We are the Dead. Short days ago
            We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
               Loved and were loved, and now we lie,
             In Flanders fields.

            Take up our quarrel with the foe:
            To you from failing hands we throw
             The torch; be yours to hold it high.
               If ye break faith with us who die
            We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
                          In Flanders fields

Needless to say this was a somber but memorable visit. The American manager was kind, helpful and answered all of our questions. 

TWO OF BUDAPEST'S SYMBOL'S AND HIGHLIGHTS

 Matthias Church

            Also called the Church of Our Lady or Coronation Church, Matthias Church is a beautiful turn of the century neo-Gothic structure. Symbol of the city’s Castle District, this is where kings were crowned. The raven, the sign of 15^th century kings, can be seen on the towers.

            The earliest remains of the church date back to the 13th century when King Béla IV. (1206-1270) commissioned the building of a church at Castle Hill after the 1241-42 Mongol invasion. The north tower was built at that time (1255-1269)

            King Matthias Corvinus expanded and embellished the building in Renaissance style and  added the 195-foot high southern  tower. The Matthias bell tower bears a raven holding a golden ring in its beak, the royal coat of arms.          

            Our guide told us, “King Matthias was known for his fairness and justice, and Hungary flourished under his rule. He was married twice in the church that bears his name. Built in the 13-15^th centuries, it is another symbol of Budapest.

In 1541 the Turks invaded Hungary and occupied the country for 150 years. The Turks turned the church into a mosque and white-washed the wall covered frescos. After Buda was retaken, the Jesuits were given the church and made some Baroque alterations. The church became a parish church in 1773. It was restored in the latter part of the 19^th century in neo-gothic style.

            The exterior and the frescos as well as the marvelous stained windows originate from that era and are the works of Hungary's greatest artists of the time.

             Today, inside  the church one wall retains  its Turkish geometric design, while frescos are evident elsewhere.  The structure has a beautiful mosaic roof. Because of the exceptional acoustics, concerts are often held in the church.

            A memorial plaque on the outside of the church commemorates all who lost their lives while the country was under Hitler and Stalin rule.

Fisherman’s Bastion

             Perched on the edge of the Castle District behind Matthias Church is a neo-Romanesque structure known as Fisherman’s Bastion. Built at the turn of the century in the location of the old fish market; it  provides  a panoramic view of the Danube River and Pest. The seven towers represent the seven tribes of Hungarians when they settled down by the Danube in the Carpathian basin in 896. The building has many turrets, terraces, parapets and stairways offering  exceptional views.It is an unforgettable landmark in Budapest.

            Fishermen's Bastion never was used for military defensive purposes; it was created only for decorative reasons.

          From the backside of the structure one can view part of a medieval wall that is between it and the Hilton Hotel.  When the medieval ruins were discovered during the construction of the hotel, the hotel’s design was altered to accommodate, not destroy, the ruins.

   Nearby is a statue of St. Stephen atop his horse.

DELFT, THE NETHERLANDS

                                  City  Highlights of  Delft

            The city of Delft, known for its distinctive pottery and close ties to the Dutch royal family, is located between Rotterdam and The Hague. The city’s atmosphere is relaxed and typically Dutch. Delft received its city franchise from the Dutch Earl, Willem  II, in 1246.

            In the characteristic town center are exceptional gabled buildings, intimate canals, bridges, narrow alleys and limited car access.  The center piece in the square is a statue of Hugo Grotius (1583-1645), an edacuator and lawyer who formulated the basis for many laws.

            In May 1536 a fire destroyed 2,300 homes. It is likely that the wooden spire of the Nieuwe Kerk (new church) was hit by lightning and flying sparks set the surrounding buildings on fire. The Netherlands has no native stone, so all stone is imported. When this was demanded after the explosion and  fire in 1654 only well-to-do people could afford to build with stone forcing many less fortunate people to leave the city. Somehow 80,000 pounds of gunpowder stored in the convent set off  the event  known as the Thunderclap. In 1660 a new gunpowder house was built about a mile outside the city center.

            It is not unusual to see leaning building in the Netherlands and Delft was no exception. The Oude

Kerk, (old church) founded as St. Bartholomew’s Church in 1246, is on the site of previous churches dating back two centuries. During its building, the foundations weren't strong enough to support the building, so the church began to lean. As building the church continued they tried to compensate its lean on each layer of the tower, so only the 4 turrets at the top are truly vertical. The tower was added between 1325–50, and dominated the townscape for a century and a half until it was surpassed in height by the Niwuwe Kerk tower. Its huge heavy bell, 1570, is rung only for funerals. The old monastery, Prinsenof, now a museum, is also where William of Orange was shot.

            The city’s association with the House of Orange dates to 1572 when William of Orange took up residence in the walled city, making it his headquarters in the fight against the Spanish. When William was shot in 1584 the family’s traditional burial ground was still under Spanish rule, so he was buried in Delft’s New Church, a custom the royal family continues today.

            Nieuwe Kerk, 1382, is the landmark Protestant  Church in Delft, and stands opposite  city hall (Stadhuis) on the square. Its church tower is the second highest in The Netherlands. The 16^th pillar represents the prophets, the four pillars represent the evangelists, and the 12^th pillar represents the apostles. The stain glass windows, added in 1936, were removed in 1938 and stored safely and replaced after the war. The church is remarkable for its fine 330-foot high tower and chime of  bells as well as a splendid mausoleum of Prince William of Orange, also known as William the Silent. All of the royal family is buried in this church.

Delft City Hall

            The Renaissance-style City Hall is the former seat of city government. Today it is where residents hold their civil wedding ceremonies. Changed over the centuries, it was restored in the 20th century to its original Renaissance splendor. The red shuttered building dates to 1618-1620, but the tower, covered in expensive Belgian limestone, is much older. The tower, called De Steen or The Stone, originally built around 1300, has decorative clock faces from 1536. Under the tower is an old city prison where William the Silent’s assassin was confined before sentencing.

            Except for one, the old city gates were demolished in the 19th century. The Eastern Gate (Oostpoort), 1400, is an example of Brick Gothic Northern European architecture. In 1510 the towers were enhanced with an additional octagonal floor and high spires. It currently serves as an art gallery and private residence.