NEWFOUNDLAND ODDITIES

Some Intersting Things I Learned
        Cloudberry also called bake apple is a popular berry to make jam and syrup. The berry is similar to a raspberry except the apricot-orange bumps are much larger and fewer in number. Cloudberries are found other places, but I first ran on to them in Newfoundland. The partridge berry tastes a lot like a cranberry.
       The trans-Canada highway starts in St John’s, Newfoundland with marker zero and extends 4660 miles across the country to Victoria, British Columbia.
        Ten mile pond is only seven miles long,----but ten miles from a long ago trapper’s home.
        A mug up is the expression for when friends and family get together to drink, talk, tell stories and sing. Screech is rum. Wedgies are fried potato chunks.
       Scuff means to dance, scoff means to eat so one can partake of a scuff
       In Newfoundland the word fish refers to cod, if any other fish is talked about it is identified by name.
      If you are not a Newfoundlander, you are from away. Tickle refers to a small stream of water. A deck on a house is called a bridge. In rural areas front doors frequently do not have any steps because the house is considered not finished and the taxes are lower. It is referred to as the mother-in-law door.
       Shed is a store and a store is a shop. That’s as confusing as a bar and gate in York, England.
       The Newfoundland pony was imported from Ireland and England. They weigh about 700 pounds and have strong forequarters.

        The Newfoundlander dog has a thick curly black coat and big webbed feet. The breed was brought to Newfoundland from England over 200 years ago. They are known for their loyalty and their many heroic rescues. We did not see many of them.
         Newfoundland has some funny place names. Many were influenced by the French and Portuguese and often have been anglicized. There are Heart’s Desire (1612), Heart’s Content (1700s) and Heart’s Delight (1800s), all close together. Originally the heart was hart, but was changed to the more common spelling. Then there is Joe Batt’s Arm, Jerry’s Nose and Herring Neck as well as Brigus and Cupids.

ONE BIG ROCK

ULURU

        For years Uluru was known as Ayers Rock and the big activity was to climb it. Unfortunately there were many accidents. The rock in the Outback—the red center of Australia—is sacred to the Aborigines and climbing the rock today is discouraged. We decided to honor that and got up early to walk the five miles around the rock at daybreak. We finished just as the sun got high in the sky. It was getting hot and we were glad we’d gotten up early!

       It is traditional to sip champagne as one watches the sun set on the big red monolith. It was amazing to see the color change about every two minutes. Crowds of tourist gather to witness the sunsets.
       The only hotel accommodations in the area are in a hotel complex built by the Northern Territory government that was later sold the complex to a Lin Lacy. The complex houses four hotels from a five-star to a backpacker’s hostel. The complex that can accommodate 5000 visitors a night also has a post office, moderate-sized grocery store, shops, and information and tourist center. It has its own water supply and generating plant, some of which is solar. The complex employs 4800 people.
       Uluru refers to a water hole near the summit. At 1150-feet high Uluru is the largest sandstone monolith in the world, and like an iceberg has perhaps 2/3 more lying under ground. It is one of the world’s great natural wonders. There are many caves in the rock and 75 art sites.
       In 1983 the area around Uluru was returned to the native people. However, it was not long before the native peoples realized they were unable to handle and manage the park, so a cooperative agreement was reached with the Park Service who now maintains and manages the area. Twenty-five percent of the park fee plus a $75,000 annual royalty is returned to the Aborigines
      The Aborigines take spiritual care of Uluru, as they believe gods from Dreamtime passed by here imbuing formations with their spirits. Caring for the land is how they confirm their humanity. About 300 of the Anangu tribe live on one side of the rock. We really had to look hard to find their settlement as the village is well hidden in the bush, and I suspect many people are not even aware of it. The entire area is referred to as Yulara, meaning howling dingo.

STRIPTESE

What To Do When It Gets Hot
         The first day in Yorkshire we woke to cloudy skies and considerably cooler temperatures than we’d had the week before. I decided that it would be a good idea to put on my silk long johns since the trousers I was wearing were pretty lightweight.
         I was looking forward to our first moor hike just because of the literary romance of the area. We started the day with a ride to Rosedale and a walk around the village.
        We were to hike over the Spaunton Moor to Lastingham, finishing at Hutton le Hole. Aren't English names interesting?
        What a start! The first and really only undulation that day was straight up 1000-feet to the top of the moor. The cloudy and cool day didn’t tame the steady climb upward over a narrow footpath. Many of us did a fair amount of huffing and puffing, and I, for one, thought we might never make it to the top. My mantra, I think I can, I think I can, I DID.
         Two hours later we were at the top only to find it so windy I thought it might blow a couple of the little people over! We stood in the cold wind near old railroad tracks for an explanation of the old iron kilns where the iron oar was decalcified to make it lighter for transport. It was sheltered on the other side of the kilns and a perfect spot for lunch.
         Fortunately the afternoon was all down hill, gently, over a reasonably good wide path. A couple of days later I learned that most groups are taken up  the moor over this gentle undulating route, but our group was deemed fit enough to make the climb up the moor through the pastures!
        It got warmer and warmer as the afternoon wore on. Coming down off the moor a stop in Lastingham provided a visit to the old crypt church. Built on the site of a Celtic monastery in 1078 it is a shrine to St. Cedd who brought Christianity to this part of England. He is buried within.
         By that time I was more than ready to shed those long johns! I thought about using the crypt to strip down, but decided that the church might not be quite the appropriate place to disrobe. However, the deserted church cemetery served nicely. One boot off, both pant and silky legs off, pants and boot back on, then repeat with the other leg.. In the blink of an eye my hiking boots were laced up, the silkies bunched up in a trouser pocket,  no one knew what I’d been up to, and I certainly was more comfortable.
         Down the path a way I pulled the silkies part way out of my pocket and said to Jan, "Lookie here."
        Totally surprised she exclaimed, “When and how in the world did you do that?”

SOME FUN INCIDENTS

Puskin
          Because Lake Kitzi was still frozen we had to forego our scheduled visit there, so made an unscheduled stop in Mandrogy, Russia. Mandrogy is a get away area for Russia's new rich. After perusing the  pricy gift shop we made a  short walk to a pull ferry that took us across a small river to Puskin Island. Puskin was a writer of children’s stories. It was a cold windy day but on the tree covered island we were sheltered from the wind. We walked a circular path around the island perimeter stopping to view the many wooden characters from Puskin's stories. It was a delightful walk into another culture.

Blueberries and more blueberries
       I was lucky to be in Nova Scotia at prime blueberry season. I love blueberries and unfortunately live in an area where they don’t grow. Believe me I’ve tried. The morning I went to breakfast and saw a punch bowl full of beautiful large ripe berries I was in blueberry heaven. Mumm, those cereal bows are too small, I need to find a soup bowl. I filled that bowl with blueberries, added a bit of milk and dug in. As I left the restaurant I said to the waitress, “I sure enjoyed your blueberries.”
      Smiling she responded, “I noticed.”

Singing Nuns
          One day in Poland when touring the countryside we stopped for lunch at a Bernadine Monastery. The nuns prepared and served a meal of delicious vegetable soup and fresh bread still warm out of the oven. The nuns run the equivalent of a soup kitchen serving several hungry people every day.
         The nuns were most gracious and it was fun talking and visiting with them. When we left, the nuns stood at the doorway at the top of the steps and serenaded us with their lovely voices. It was a delightful stop and a scrumptious lunch.

Water, water everywhere
        The only place where I have been delivered to my hotel by water taxi was in Venice, Italy as we stayed on the island in a local hotel, not on the mainland in a large chain hotel. The luggage was all transported in a water boat. The gondolas of Venice are for tourists. Water taxis get one around in Venice, and water boats transport all goods and supplies. There are no cars or bikes. On dry land one walks!

TURNEFF ATOLL

I Picturesque Spot in the Middle of the Sea.

I went to Belize to participate in a bottlenose dolphin research project. Arriving at Blackbird Caye on Turneffe Atoll I thought I had found paradise. The lush remote island was surrounded by clear turquoise water. The warm Belizean sun bathed deserted sandy beaches. The serenity of the unspoiled natural beauty was awesome.

My cabana, being a triple, was a bit larger than some of the others. All had thatched roofs, a complete bath, and a nice little veranda furnished with chairs and a hammock. Cool ocean breezes kept the buildings comfortable. Large screened windows had a drop down shutter for rainy or stormy days. Without the cool sea breezes it would have been very hot. It had was such a South Seas atmosphere.

Turneffe, 32 miles from Belize City, is the largest of the three atolls and contains 4000 acres of jungle. The resort has a generator to produce all its own electricity and reverse osmosis machinery to produce its water supply. All the water from the faucets is drinkable.

Clearing the jungle for the resort must have been quite a job in the beginning as there was no power for tools at the start.

All of our meals were taken in a unique dining /recreation building. At dinner it was explained, “The front part of this building is round showing an African influence and the back of the building, the kitchen area, is square, indicative of Mayan culture.”

In the center of the large room stood a multi-sided (sexton) serving table. Looking up at the ceiling, the thatched roof resembled the underside of an umbrella. The floor was made of narrow strips of different native woods and the contrast of the boards was striking.

All of our food was prepared by native cooks and included native dishes. The food was good and I had absolutely no complaints. The fresh produce was wonderful. Besides citrus we ate papayas the size of small watermelons and mangos the size of cantaloupes. Never had I seen fruit so big in those varieties and they were so sweet, juicy, and flavorful. Delicious!

One afternoon my roommate and I decided to walk into the jungle to see what we could see. We tucked in pants bottoms in socks and tales of our long sleeved shirts into our waist band. After dousing hands, face and clothing in bug juice we were off. The swarms of mosquitoes were so numerous that we didn’t get very far before deciding our curiosity could remain just that. It was a relief to get back to our cleared bug-free resort.

I enjoyed a couple of wonderful weeks on the atoll and there is a lot more to share---another day.

QUITO, ECUADOR

A High Altitude City

When we went to the Galapagos Islands, Quito, Ecuador was our first stop. A couple days in the capital city gave us a chance to adjust to the climate and time change.

Old colonial Quito is very hilly reminding me of San Francisco. The cobblestone streets are very narrow. The buildings with a Moorish influence are very close together. Many of the stucco buildings have inner courtyards. Our personal guide told us, “Spaniards founded the old capitol city in 1534.”

Street vendors were everywhere. Old men carried heavy loads in large baskets on their backs. The only thing holding the baskets in place were fabric straps. I’m not sure if the men were bent over from the heavy loads or because of age. Life had to be tough.

The new modern hotels and shops are located in ‘new Quito’, an area which came into being in the early 1970s. We were told, “Building codes here are actually earthquake codes requiring steel to reinforce all concrete.”

The streets in the new part of town were wide, the traffic heavy and traffic lights and stop signs very few in number. I’m glad I was not competing with the crazy drivers. We were cautioned to watch our wallets whenever walking the streets anywhere in the city.

Our guide continued, “Ecuador has twelve hours of daylight and twelve hours (6-6) of darkness every day all year. Mornings are sunny and rain showers arrive nearly every afternoon.

“Our country’s main income is derived from bananas and oil, 50% of the oil is exported. There are eight active volcanoes in the country.”

We learned Ecuador was a dictatorship until 1979 when it became a democracy. There are 16 political parties. Provincial senators and the president are elected for one four year term.

General Sucre fought the Spanish. An art theater and the currency are named for him.

At 10,000 feet elevation, we stopped at the site of the Dancing Virgin or Madonna of Quito. Our guide told us, “She was erected in the early 1980s and stands 100 feet tall. She was made in France of cast aluminum and shipped to Quito in pieces, and then erected. She is the only winged virgin in the Catholic Church. The virgin stands on a dragon perched on top of the world. She holds a chain in her hand that extends down and around the dragon’s neck showing that good triumphs over evil. Below the statue is a small chapel.”

It was an interesting city tour that finished right at lunchtime. The equatorial monument another day.

GERMAN CHURCHES AND CEMETERIES

A Different View

When biking from Munich to Vienna, the first church we visited was in Michaelbach, Germany. This was our trial run so was only about a 20-22 mile day.

Our guide explained, “It is the custom in this part of the world to have the cemetery within the walls that surround the church. The wall surrounding the property’s perimeter is usually concrete and about five to six feet high. Then above each grave in the cemetery is a raised bed for a flower garden. This little garden is often enclosed with a concrete ‘curbing’. Relatives often tend these mini gardens with great care. Sometimes the family hires someone to do it and there are people, often elderly women, who make an occupation of just tending these little gardens.”

I thought what a nice custom.

Inside the church there are many many angels. It was explained, “Years ago the angels were a source of contention with church officials, but the people persevered and the angels remain today. Most of them are gold. This church was built in 1728-31, but it took nearly forty years to furnish.”

“Why did it take so long?” someone asked.

“Lack of money and some wars.”

The guide continued, “In 1988 this church was restored at a cost of three million marks. The organ, over a hundred years old, dates back to 1867.”

Each time we visited a church, and there were many, a docent was present to tell us the history. Personally I liked that as we learned so much more than if we had just stuck our head in the door.

As we were leaving getting ready to bike back to the hotel our guide explained, “Outside the perimeter walls of most churches you will find a war memorial. Here, each war is listed separately and the names of all the villagers who lost their lives are listed alphabetically for that war. The date of death is beside each name.”

The church is the center of the village and the ever present memorials are a nice way to remember those who made the supreme sacrifice for their country.

WILDEBEEST

An Unusual Animal

Unplanned and unknowingly we were in Kenya during the wildebeest migration. What a bonus! The first time we saw thousands of wildebeests followed by hundreds of zebra galloping across the savanna out guide told us, “Both of these animals are migrating south to the Serengeti. There are 1.7 million wildebeest in Kenya and this migration is the largest animal migration in the world.”

On that afternoon game run my son, who thought we’d miss the migration, said, “What a sight!”

I replied, “This is what the migration of the bison across North America must have looked like before their extinction,”

Another day when we again saw herds of animals migrating our guide with a grin told us, “The wildebeest is a combination of many animals. He has the face of a grasshopper, the chin and beard of a goat, the horns of a buffalo and the tail of a horse. When it came time for a brain there was only room for an insect brain which is why the beest runs sideways, stumbles and easily gets confused.”

The young, old and sick are easy prey for hungry predators, and we saw that too.

GOOD TO KNOW

                              MORE ODDITIES AND ENDS

Stadle Stones
In the English Cotswolds I ran across a mushroom shaped stone under the barns, more or less as support. I learned the mushroom–shaped stones are called stadle stones, not saddle. They provided air circulation/ conditioning for the barn and also kept out the water as well as any varmints that might want to get in the barn. I have never seen stadle stones elsewhere.

Vodka
In Russia, we learned the five rules for drinking vodka. 1.Vodka should be chilled but never have ice put in it. 2.It should always be drunk from small shot-type glasses with food---a little vodka, then a little food to prevent a headache. 3.Vodka should never be mixed with anything bubbly and avoid bubbly drinks after drinking vodka. Vodka is sometimes mixed with fruit liqueurs. 4.Do not switch alcoholic drinks when drinking vodka. 5. One should always drink with friends.
In Mandrogy, Russia we visited a vodka museum where 2600 different vodkas were displayed. I didn’t drink a lot of vodka in Russia, but when I did I actually drank it straight!

Danish Farms
It is said there are twice as many pigs in Denmark as there are people. Danish ham is a big export item. Danish farms are built U shaped and include the main house and barns that surround a central court. Quite different from our farms.

Smorrebrod
A Danish smorrebrod, no resemblance to our smorgasbord, is an open face sandwich with any combination of thinly sliced items, usually vegetables, you want. They are made to order, usually in a bakery or specialty shop. The only limitation is one’s own imagination.

Children’s Split Pants
It was in Tiananmen Square in Beijing, China that we first saw a child with split pants. As mothers held their small ones, little bare cheeks peeked through split pants. As we traveled, it became a familiar sight. As much as I would have liked to snap a good picture, I felt it was just too invasive to ask permission to take a photo of a child’s rear end!

TO MAKE YOU SMILE

CURIOUS ODDITIES
Cat and Rat

In Dublin. Ireland just before we were about to descend into Christ Church Cathedral’s crypt, the largest in Europe, I looked up and saw a sign on the wall that said “CAT and RAT” in bold letters. Moving my eyes upward I saw a shadow box with a mummified cat and rat. The written explanation stated that the animals were trapped in one of the organ pipes in 1860. I guess that cat really wanted that rat!

During the 16th and 17th centuries the crypt was used as a market, a meeting place for business and at one point a pub. Reconstruction between 1870-1878 was accomplished with monies from the Guinness brewery. Today the 900 year old crypt is open to the public. New lighting recently has been installed in the crypt floor. Several display cases hold outstanding rare church silver including the stunning royal plate given by King William III in 1697 as a thanksgiving for his victory at the battle of the Boyne. Also on display are candlesticks used in 1689.

Some Massage
Toward the end of my stay on Midway Island I indulged in a massage. The little Thai fellow who worked in the medical clinic did them for $5.00! He was physically small but had pretty good size hands which were very strong. It was one of the best massages I’ve ever had and certainly the most reasonable!

On the Go
 I’m not a big fan of fast foods, especially when overseas as I think the local food is a big part of the travel experience. However, it was a young gal in the Copenhagen airport who made a good observation. McDonald’s, which seem to be everywhere, is a good place to get a decent cup of coffee in a to-go cup, as coffee in Europe is served in real cups and tends to be pretty strong for American tastes.

Lunch in a Glass Tower
In Helsinki, Finland we chose the Café Kapelli for lunch one day. The building, built in 1860, has a glass tower on each end. In the 19th century the old fashion gazebo-like oasis was a popular hangout for intellectuals and artists. The whole building seemed to be made of glass. We sat in one of the towers and enjoyed the best ever chicken curry soup and a cloudberry dessert. We could have sat all afternoon and people watched, but we were in a new city and there was lots to see.

RUSSIA'S WAR MEMORIAL

VICTORY PARK

In Moscow, Victory Park covers 182 hectares. It opened in 1995 with representatives from 56 countries, including President Clinton, present. The metal relief 462-foot high oblique is beautiful. A Mosque, Synagogue, and Russian Orthodox Church are in the park.

We entered the main building to find a Russian band waiting for us. The director stood at rigid attention in a uniform that looked a bit big for him. After they played and sang the Russian National Anthem they swung into the Star Spangled Banner. We all stood at attention and sang loudly along with them as more than one of us had tears in our eyes. What a delight! So far from home, on foreign soil and to have such a warm welcome was wonderful.

A local, very Russian, docent then toured us though the excellent museum. The many dioramas were some of the best I’ve ever seen. Svetlana interpreted for us as we moved through the museum. The guide said, “Twenty-seven million Russians died during WW II, seven million were military and 20 million were civilians. The Battle of Moscow in 1941 was followed by the Battle of Stalingrad, which lasted 200 days killing 4 million people. That battle ended in ’43 when Russian soldiers surrounded 90,000 Germans.

“The Nazis couldn’t capture Leningrad so they bombarded it in a siege that lasted 900 days! The Russians would not surrender. People had no heat, water, or food and were given 4-inches of bread a day. One million died in the first destruction of Leningrad in 300 years.

“Kiev was liberated in November ’43. The Nazis lost 70% of their forces on Russian territory. The siege of Berlin lasted 22 days.”

In the Hall of Glory 12,000 hero names are engraved on the walls. Reliefs encircle the dome and in the center a bronze soldier welcomes and represents the drive from Moscow to Berlin.

It is an excellent war museum with outstanding displays.
At the time of my visit Moscow was in high gear for the 65th D-Day anniversary celebrations. President Bush was due in the city in a few days. Orange, yellow and red flags were all over town. Thousands of flowers---tulips and pansies, were being planted.

SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE

Fantastic Place

One of the most recognizable landmarks in the world is the Sydney Opera House. Pictures just don’t do it justice and what a history! The 4 ½ acre building stands facing the harbor on Bennelong Point Sydney, Australia..

The guided tour was worth both the time and money. Our guide told us, “The opera house has ten ‘sails’ and stands the height of a 22 story building.”

She continued, “In 1959 there was enormous controversy and debate from the inception of the idea for an opera house. An international competition resulted in 233 entries. The dazzling and dramatic design of Danish architect Joern Utzon fired the imagination of the judges. But the technology did not exist in the 50s to build the sails that formed the roof and walls.

“The original cost estimate was seven million dollars with a projected construction time of four years. The actual cost was 102 million and construction took 15 years. However, a special opera lottery paid the additional bills, and the opera house was completely paid for by mid 1975, just two years after its opening!

“The criterion was for a multipurpose hall and minor hall. The first of a three stage construction plan started in 1959. Stage I involved the foundation and base, to the podium level. Stage II was the construction of the roof vaults. One day while peeling an orange Utzon had the inspiration to construct the shells from rib sections of a complete sphere. And so the 2194 concrete ribs, forming the skeleton of the building, were prefabricated and joined together with 217 miles of tension steel. Each section weighs 15 tons. These ribs are clearly visible in the foyers and staircase areas of the concert hall."

The ‘roof’ is covered with 1,056,000 Swedish white tiles which appear as a mosaic. Any one section of the ‘sails’ can be removed without compromising the entire structure. This is also true of the ribs and the tile coverings.

In 1966,shortly before completion of Stage II, Utzon resigned from the project. A team of Australian architects overtook the project and completed this stage in about a year.

The guide continued, “Stage III involved the glass walls, interior rooms, and all the innards, promenades and approaches. Opera House is a bit of a misnomer as it is actually an arts center. Besides the 1547-seat opera theater there is a 2690-seat concert hall, a 544-seat drama theater, and a 398-seat playhouse.

“The building houses a 1000 rooms including a reception hall, five rehearsal studios, four restaurants, six theater bars, extensive foyers and lounge areas, sixty dressing rooms, library, artist lounge, administrative offices, and extensive plant and machinery areas.

“The concert hall roof vault at 221-feet is the highest. The roofs are supported by 32 eight-foot square columns sunk 82 feet below sea level. The acoustics here are nearly perfect. It took Ronald Chap, an Australian, ten years to design and build the organ in this hall. The organ has 10,500 pipes and extends into the back 8 ½ meters.”

The first three rows in the drama theater are actually below sea level. That theater is cooled by salt water passing through aluminum coils on the ceiling.

She concluded, “Brushbox and white birch plywood, both obtained from northern New South Wales, are used extensively throughout. The 67,000 square feet of two layer glass for the windows came from France. One layer of 2000 panes, in 700 sizes, is tinted. The glass wall acts as sound proofing. 400 miles of electrical cable was needed. The power supply, adequate for a city of 25,000, involves 120 distribution boards. Twelve miles of air conditioning duct run from 26 air conditioning rooms/areas.”

I would hate to trouble shoot that electrical system!

This was a most fascinating tour of a fabulous interesting building.