HELSINKI, FINLAND

                                                    A Bit of History

One of the main attractions in Helsinki, Finland is the mammoth fortress, built in 1748, by the Swedes. It is only a short boat ride to the island  where the fort, Suomenlinna, with its eight kilometer defensive wall  is located.  In 1747, when Finland was part of the Swedish realm, the Diet in Stockholm decided to build a fortress to serve as the main base for the armed forces stationed in Finland. A group of islands close to Helsinki were chosen to be the site of the fortress, which was to be called Sveaborg, the 'Fortress of Sweden. The purpose was to link and fortify several islands so that entry into the city's harbor could be controlled. Built to protect the eastern part of the empire from attack it would  help Sweden counter the ambitions of Russia, who had a principal military base in the Gulf of Finland. Suomenlinna has played a key role in many turning points in Finland’s history. It has been the property of three sovereign states. The majority of its buildings date from the late 18th century, the end of the Swedish era.

After a long attack in 1808, that put much of the city in ruins, the Swedes surrendered to Russia and became a seat of the Russian Grand Duchy.  In 1855, during the Crimean War, Franco-British soldiers bombarded the fortress to no avail.

Reconstruction work and new construction were undertaken. Following Finland's independence in 1918 the name was changed a final time to Suomenlinna, Fortress of Finland. Six kilometers of walls and 190 buildings have been preserved.

Today the island is a favorite excursion destination of Finns. Seven museums are within the complex. There are old bunkers, crumbling fortress walls, and on the south end of the island there are some ancient cannons. The UNESCO site, 1991, is home to the largest maritime museum in the world as well as the Finnish Naval Academy. A scale model of what the area looked like in 1808 is on display. The fort stretches over six islands.

            Some 900 people live in renovated ramparts and barracks that date back to the 18^th century. 17,000 men worked constructing the fort which was estimated to take four years to build, but actually took 44 years to complete! France gave a subsidy of 18 barrels of gold, then the rest of the cost was up to the Swedish government. Finns worked 12-hour days with no pay.

            The fort was manned by educated Swedish soldiers who brought culture and social development to the area. Russians planted trees during their rule. Windmills originally powered the pumps of the dry-dock. A light at the top of the church tower serves as a lighthouse. Originally the church was Russian Orthodox, but after the Russians left it was converted to a Lutheran church. The last executions were in   1918 when there were 68. However, an additional thousand died from starvation and disease.

            All military function of the fort ceased in 1973. A small sandy beach offers swimming and sunning for those so inclined. These types of visits are really not my cup of tea but with its complicated history I found this visit quite interesting. We had plenty of time to see all that we wanted and to visit the museums. It’s pretty much an all day excursion---right in the center of the city. 

SCANDINAVIA

                     General Impressions

      Except for Finland, that is on the Euro, each country has its own currency and about 5-6 crowns equal 1 US dollar. Americans were welcome everywhere and English is common. The tourist industry is booming and all the capitals accommodate cruise ships.

           In summer, daylight hours are long. Cities and restrooms are spotlessly clean.     Each city had numerous parks and there is lots of statuary in towns, made from granite or bronze. Buildings are of stone and outdoor cafés are popular. Although public transport is good, fast, and efficient, the major cities are very walkable and easily seen on foot. Cars and trucks tend to be small, but buses are large tourist ones. One rarely hears a car horn. Cabs take credit cards.

            Open air fresh produce and fish markets are in all cities. We were actually encouraged to make a sandwich for lunch at breakfast---A first! Hotel beds all had duvets and it was common to see men with ponytails.

        
 Helsinki is a low-rise city with wide streets, but watch the drivers who would just as soon   run you over as not. Do not assume the driver will stop if you step into the street! Winter winds blow ice to the area so ice breakers are commonly seen working. Finns are not chocolate eaters but like licorice which comes in many flavors.

  In Copenhagen bicycles are everywhere. The Danish are friendly. The city is full of gorgeous architecture. Picturesque thatched roofs are common in the countryside. In the city one will pay to pee. The Stroget is the famous mile-long pedestrian shopping area.

Sweden is very expensive. It is common to see people eating while walking along the street. It seems everyone was smoking. The drivers were more pedestrian friendly than in Finland. The harbor was full of boats, both moored and sailing.

 Norway was also full of smokers. It is also a very expensive country for the tourist. The streets are narrow and there are a few high-rise buildings. Drivers are courteous and give pedestrians a break. Fountains in parks were a big thing. The city is full of chestnut trees. Public restrooms were frequent. Mornings started out misty but it cleared mid morning. Restaurants were not service oriented---or at least we didn’t find any that were. The country is full of tunnels and they were all dry! The Danes know how to build tunnels!

      It was interesting to observe each city’s idiosyncrasies. This trip was a pleasant respite from the Texas summer heat!Lots more info on each country to come.

TO MAKE YOU SMILE

CURIOUS ODDITIES
Cat and Rat

In Dublin. Ireland just before we were about to descend into Christ Church Cathedral’s crypt, the largest in Europe, I looked up and saw a sign on the wall that said “CAT and RAT” in bold letters. Moving my eyes upward I saw a shadow box with a mummified cat and rat. The written explanation stated that the animals were trapped in one of the organ pipes in 1860. I guess that cat really wanted that rat!

During the 16th and 17th centuries the crypt was used as a market, a meeting place for business and at one point a pub. Reconstruction between 1870-1878 was accomplished with monies from the Guinness brewery. Today the 900 year old crypt is open to the public. New lighting recently has been installed in the crypt floor. Several display cases hold outstanding rare church silver including the stunning royal plate given by King William III in 1697 as a thanksgiving for his victory at the battle of the Boyne. Also on display are candlesticks used in 1689.

Some Massage
Toward the end of my stay on Midway Island I indulged in a massage. The little Thai fellow who worked in the medical clinic did them for $5.00! He was physically small but had pretty good size hands which were very strong. It was one of the best massages I’ve ever had and certainly the most reasonable!

On the Go
 I’m not a big fan of fast foods, especially when overseas as I think the local food is a big part of the travel experience. However, it was a young gal in the Copenhagen airport who made a good observation. McDonald’s, which seem to be everywhere, is a good place to get a decent cup of coffee in a to-go cup, as coffee in Europe is served in real cups and tends to be pretty strong for American tastes.

Lunch in a Glass Tower
In Helsinki, Finland we chose the Café Kapelli for lunch one day. The building, built in 1860, has a glass tower on each end. In the 19th century the old fashion gazebo-like oasis was a popular hangout for intellectuals and artists. The whole building seemed to be made of glass. We sat in one of the towers and enjoyed the best ever chicken curry soup and a cloudberry dessert. We could have sat all afternoon and people watched, but we were in a new city and there was lots to see.