A Charming Historic City
Known as the City of Legends or as stated on our bus as the City of Opportunity, St John’s is Newfoundland’s capital. With a population of 100,000, it is the largest city in the province and also is one of Canada’s windiest cities. Damp and rainy, fog is frequent and can last for days. No one can believe that we had clear sunny days for our entire visit---the Gods were shining down on us!
The picturesque historic port town has provided shelter for explorers, merchants, soldiers, mariners, and pirates for over 500 years. The waterfront, located in historic downtown, is an easy stroll. Steep hills surround the harbor, but the down town area is relatively level and very walkable. Historic buildings, plaques, and parks depict the city’s history since John Cabot dropped anchor at Bonavista Bay in 1497.
My flight was delayed so when I finally arrived very late afternoon I left my luggage in my hotel room and walked the main streets of Water and Duckworth.
I photographed the 1901 stone Victorian Courthouse between Duckworth and Water Streets. Made of local granite and sandstone, the building was cleaned in 1988. I walked up the many courthouse steps, the pedestrian connection between the two major streets, stopping to observe the site of a 19th century produce market and public gallows. I tried to envision the last public hanging in 1835 when John Flood was hanged for robbing the stagecoach.
The War Memorial was erected in 1924, eight years after a Newfoundland Regiment was decimated at Beaumont Hamel, France during the battle of Somme. It is located at Queen’s Beach where Sir Humphrey Gilbert took possession of the island in 1583. The bronze figures represent Liberty, the Merchant Marine, the Army, Navy and Forestry Corps.
There are always funny stories to be found when traveling. One in Newfoundland concerns the Government House, 1824. It is one of the few buildings in North America to have a moat surrounding it. The governor was also the governor of the Bahamas, and he was building two residences at the same time. The moat was to keep out alligators! Needless to say it was soon filled in. Now the building is the private residence of the Lt. Governor and guest house for members of the Royal Family when they visit the province.
I found St. John’s a charming city and have lots more to share on another day.
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
PA and the JUNGLE
WHAT WAS I THINKING
Rarotonga is the largest of the Cook Islands, its capitol, and spectacularly beautiful. Shaped like a small round bean it is surrounded by a protective reef which is broken in 5-6 places. There are four atolls in the lagoon on the east side of the island. The well known white beaches nearly surround the island which is fringed with coconut palms. The turquoise blue lagoon is full of colorful tropical fish.
The interior of the island is rugged and mountainous, covered with dense lush green growth. The narrow valleys and steep hills make it difficult to populate. The Needle, a rock pinnacle, in the center of the island stands 2000 feet above the fertile valley. It is the highest point on the island and a vigorous hike over a razorback ridge, one few tourist attempt.
I took one look at Pa, the medicine man and silently wondered what I had gotten myself into. However, I did trek into the jungle with him. Pa was a 58 year old native Rarotongan whose head was crowned with blond dread locks. He wore a tie-dyed pareu around his waist wrapped sort of like a diaper. He told the 16 of us brave souls who were waitingto follow him, “I’ve hiked into the mountain over 1000 times.”
On the walk to where the lush vegetation began we saw chestnut trees and wild pumpkin/squash vines. As we walked through the forest he pointed out the tapioca plant, a candlenut tree and the no no plant.
He told us, “Oil from the candlenut was used to light lanterns before the days of kerosene. The fruit of the no no plant with two nuts, some of the leaves and mixing it all with green coconut milk was used for prostate or kidney problems."
We passed by several old plantation ruins deep in the valleys. We followed a stream into the lush greenness. It was up and over fallen trees, down on the other side, cross the stream by balancing on rocks, then repeat it all over again. The climb was often steep and I swear we crossed that stream a hundred times. It was a pretty rugged hike.
Pesky mosquitoes buzzed in thick swarms. Long sleeves and pants completely covered me except for my face and hands and they with my clothing were doused with bug juice.
Pa got us to an ancient marae which I’m guessing was a couple of miles into the jungle. It is very hard to judge distance on this type of a criss-cross, up and down hike. Arriving at the site Pa said, “Before we can step on the marae I will talk to my ancestors and bless the marae. Since I am a high ariki (kahuna, priest) I can do this.”
The marae is an open air temple in a clearing and when Pa was finished we could step on it to rest a bit.
He continued, “Today the marae is used only for investiture of a new chief who is carried by warriors onto the marae. He sits on a stone at the head of the temple. Then a pig is brought to him and he is required to chew the ear off the pig and eat it. Then the party of celebration begins.” (I’m not sure if the pig is alive or dead, cooked or raw.)
There was some conversation when Pa asked if we wanted to continue on. Since we had been hiking and swatting mosquitoes for several hours it was a quick consensus to not continue any further. Most of the hikers were about the age of my adult children.
We returned to the stream where we had passed a pretty waterfall and settled in for lunch surrounded by dinosaur ferns. Pa told us, “These ferns only grow in three places in the world, here, Hawaii, and Costa Rica. It was extremely quiet and peaceful with only the sound of the waterfall breaking the silence.
Sunday, November 7, 2010
CHINESE HOTELS
Hotel Surprise
A couple of years before the Olympics in Beijing we were not sure what to expect in hotel accommodations. Long story short, we had excellent hotels everywhere we traveled and wanted for nothing anywhere.
The 100-year-old Beijing Hotel, centrally located, was a five-star hotel. Once in our room we only did minimal unpacking, showered and hit the firm queen-size beds for a hopeful good night’s sleep. It was nearly midnight. We had passed over 15 time zones but we had arrived in China!
Another surprise awaited us at the five-star Xi’an Garden Hotel. I remarked, “I certainly did not expect a 5-star hotel in China to be a truly 5-star, more like an American 3-star. This place is gorgeous, the landscaping is beautiful." We walked across a zig zag--–remember the dragons---wooden walkway over a lovely pond to get to our room.
The cabins on the American ownedVictoria Empress for the four days on the Yangtze River were small but comfortable with two single beds, a desk, hanging closet, and a small bathroom with a shower over a short tub, sink and commode. We loved the balcony and spent a fair amount of time on it. of the ships are . The 77 cabin Empress was 287 feet long.
A couple of years before the Olympics in Beijing we were not sure what to expect in hotel accommodations. Long story short, we had excellent hotels everywhere we traveled and wanted for nothing anywhere.
The 100-year-old Beijing Hotel, centrally located, was a five-star hotel. Once in our room we only did minimal unpacking, showered and hit the firm queen-size beds for a hopeful good night’s sleep. It was nearly midnight. We had passed over 15 time zones but we had arrived in China!
 |
| The Garden Hotel in Xi'an |
Our Chendu hotel, JJH or Jinjiang, built in 1958, was located across from the Jinjiang River. Jin means prosperous----people’s expectation the hotel would experience prosperity like the new China.
The Tibet hotel was what I really expected throughout the trip. It would be a 1 ½-3 star hotel in the United States. We had a fabulous view of the Himalaya Mountains from our room picture window. Heat is turned on by the calendar not by the weather.
The time for heat was off during our stay. At 12,000-feet it gets pretty cool in the evening. There was no way we were going to get heat but were offered additional blankets. During the day we left the drapes wide open for the sun to warm the room and with the added blankets we actually slept well in the comfortable beds.
Our Hong Kong hotel was like any large plush hotel in any large city.
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
UNUSUAL CLOCK
GASTOWN
Gastown is the birthplace of Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Edward Stamp took advantage of the surrounding forest and easy access to water at Burrard Inlet to established a sawmill. Growing up around the Hastings Saw Mill, Gastown, covering six square blocks, is located north-east of the downtown core and is the oldest part of the city.
Legend says that he offered free whisky during the first couple of days if the recipients would promise to fill his establishment on the weekend. That apparently was no problem, and he supposedly had lots of help erecting the first tavern in town where gold miners mingled with ship’s hands and loggers.
Boon days arrived in the 1880s after the extension of the railroad track along the waterfront. The railroad spurred the development of warehouses and wholesale traders, while passenger trains flooded the local hotels with lumberjacks, miners and speculators. Gastown became the staging point for expeditions to the Klondike during the gold rush in the 1890s.
Gastown’s prominence waned in the early 1900s as development moved westward. An extensive redevelopment project was started in the 1970s. Water Street was restored with original cobblestone paving, brick building fronts were restored and simulated gas lamps added.
In 1884 Gastown was renamed Granville, and later at the suggestion of the Canadian Pacific Railroad’s general manager renamed again---to Vancouver. Big changes came to the town with the final name change; 500 buildings sprang up in anticipation of the railroad’s arrival.
The famous antique steam clock is the first built in the world. Douglas Smith, an engineer, built the clock over a steam vent at a cost of $42,000 in 1977. Ray Saunders, a well-known inventor and clockmaker designed the 16.9-foot clock. Weighing two ton, steel weights go to the top and then drop by gravity. Every quarter hour Westminster chimes are heard, and on the hour a loud whistle belches from the clock. The steam pipes are all underground. The steam heats many of the buildings as well as running the clock.
Gastown is a neat place to visit and the steam clock is most unique.
Saturday, October 30, 2010
GARNISH ISLAND
GARDEN PARADISE
Garnish, a small island of 37 acres in County Cork, Ireland, was a most pleasant surprise. Glengariff meaning rugged glen, is tucked between the Caha Mountains and Bantry Bay and is where we boarded a small boat for the ten-minute ride to Garnish. The tide was half out so Harbor Seals were sunning and resting all over the rocks in the harbor. Garnish, the near island, is also called Ilnacullin, island of holly. The use of Ilnacullin distinguishes this beautiful tropical island paradise from another Garnish Island in County Kerry.
The island was originally used by the British as a defense against a Napoleonic invasion. A Martello Tower, thought to be the first in Ireland, is located at the highest point of the island.In 1910 Annan Bryce bought the island and hired Harold Peto as the architect and garden designer. The Gulf Stream moderates the weather so sub-tropical plants thrive. The island is known to horticulturists around the world. It is a lovely subtropical island garden of beauty. The warm wet climate is perfect for growing such plants. The average rainfall 73 inches
Rhododendrons line the shore paths that revealed beautiful views of inlets, loughs and lounging seals. The walled garden, 100-meters long, contains many fine plants and shrubs with a Clock Tower in the western corner of the garden.
An Italian tearoom borders the southwest lawn of the formal Italian garden with its steps, terraces and pool. An avenue of Italian Cypress trees leads to the Grecian Temple The Caha Mountains are a magnificent backdrop to the Temple.
Except for the tower and tea house, no buildings are visible. Work sheds and storage areas are all hidden among the shrubbery and trees. It was a beautiful day and we had a wonderful time wandering all the gardens and enjoying the beautiful tropical atmosphere. The colors of the garden rotate with the seasons.
The island was bequeathed to the Irish people in 1953, and is cared for by the Office of Public Works
The mild climate has turned Glengarriff into a winter resort town, and as a result craft chops abound as well as boatmen soliciting business
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
STOCKHOMN
SPECTACULAR CITY HALL
One of the most spectacular buildings in Stockholm, Sweden is the elegant City Hall, Stadshuset. The 395’ high brick tower is topped with three crowns. There are three explanations for the crowns. They represent the three tribes that inhabited Sweden; they represent the three wise men; and they represent Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, the three Scandinavian countries.
In 1923 eight million bricks went into making one of Europe’s finest public buildings. The brick work is 3- D in some places and is some of the finest brick masonry I’ve ever seen. More like a palace than a City Hall, each room is finer than the previous one.
The Blue Room, 1911, used for Nobel Prize presentations, was finished in 1923 with interruptions of WW I. The cost was estimated to be 6 million crowns, but actually cost 18 million crowns. All materials are from Sweden. The staircase steps are wide enough and shallow enough so Nobel winners can glide down them. There is a 10,000-pipe organ in the room and 1360 people can be seated for dinner.
The Parliament Room has high ceilings with wooden beams that represent the Viking past. The roof is V shaped. The doors are beautiful carved ones. The original Parliament had 100 members, 14 of whom were women. The women had their own red velvet room to confer in, while men would go off to the ‘smoking room’. Today there are 54 women in the 101 member parliament. There are 20 provinces in Stockholm. Members are elected for four years.
The tower is popular for weddings. The open ceiling has glass between it and the wall. Next to the tower is a room built specially to house several beautiful French tapestries.
The Prince Gallery is a long hall with large windows. On the wall opposite the windows a prince painted the reflection in pastel of what is seen out each window so everyone seated in the room would be looking at the same view. The windows were inset with top to bottom granite-type reliefs. In effect they framed the huge windows. They are beautiful and each one different.
The Three Crown Room contains 19 million 1/4 -inch pieces of glass and gold mosaic chips. The designs, done and completed in three years by a 27 year old, depict Sweden’s history. The entire walls are covered. The big eyes of the people were the artist’s desire. Its glitter is earth shattering and there are 200 color shades. About 30 tiles disappear each year, the majority of them on Nobel Prize night.
I’ve never seen a public building like Stockholm’s beautiful City Hall.
One of the most spectacular buildings in Stockholm, Sweden is the elegant City Hall, Stadshuset. The 395’ high brick tower is topped with three crowns. There are three explanations for the crowns. They represent the three tribes that inhabited Sweden; they represent the three wise men; and they represent Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, the three Scandinavian countries.
In 1923 eight million bricks went into making one of Europe’s finest public buildings. The brick work is 3- D in some places and is some of the finest brick masonry I’ve ever seen. More like a palace than a City Hall, each room is finer than the previous one.
The Blue Room, 1911, used for Nobel Prize presentations, was finished in 1923 with interruptions of WW I. The cost was estimated to be 6 million crowns, but actually cost 18 million crowns. All materials are from Sweden. The staircase steps are wide enough and shallow enough so Nobel winners can glide down them. There is a 10,000-pipe organ in the room and 1360 people can be seated for dinner.
The Parliament Room has high ceilings with wooden beams that represent the Viking past. The roof is V shaped. The doors are beautiful carved ones. The original Parliament had 100 members, 14 of whom were women. The women had their own red velvet room to confer in, while men would go off to the ‘smoking room’. Today there are 54 women in the 101 member parliament. There are 20 provinces in Stockholm. Members are elected for four years.
The tower is popular for weddings. The open ceiling has glass between it and the wall. Next to the tower is a room built specially to house several beautiful French tapestries.
The Prince Gallery is a long hall with large windows. On the wall opposite the windows a prince painted the reflection in pastel of what is seen out each window so everyone seated in the room would be looking at the same view. The windows were inset with top to bottom granite-type reliefs. In effect they framed the huge windows. They are beautiful and each one different.
The Three Crown Room contains 19 million 1/4 -inch pieces of glass and gold mosaic chips. The designs, done and completed in three years by a 27 year old, depict Sweden’s history. The entire walls are covered. The big eyes of the people were the artist’s desire. Its glitter is earth shattering and there are 200 color shades. About 30 tiles disappear each year, the majority of them on Nobel Prize night.
I’ve never seen a public building like Stockholm’s beautiful City Hall.
Sunday, October 24, 2010
COCO CABS
A WHAT?
I was lucky to get to Cuba a month before President Bush cut off all travel to the island country. Our Havana hotel was right on the Malecon—a busy street we’d call the waterfront boulevard. We had wonderful views of the ocean, but we also had a terrific viewing position to watch all the well known 40s and 50s automobiles of my youth. Mingled among all these wonderful old cars were the cutest little yellow coco cabs.
I had been alerted to the coco cabs by a friend, so it was on top of my list to see and ride. Coco cabs are small, yellow, fiber-glass, open vehicles with a small gas engine. The top curves to cover the driver and two passengers who sit in the back. These 3-wheel ‘taxis’ are seen all over the city and the average fee for a ride to about anywhere was three dollars, US.
The coco cab is described many ways. A hollowed out coconut. Like a hat of ancient Hawaiian royalty. A circle with a bite taken out of it. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words. You can decide how to describe them. They’re cute as can be and a lot of fun to ride. They look like they’d be slow, but they actually are pretty fast and zip in and out of traffic with no problems.
One evening we were returning to the hotel after a concert. The ocean was raging throwing huge amounts of water on the Malecon as the waves broke on the seawall. You could say our coco cab was in the wrong place at the wrong time. Enough water splashed onto us to short out the engine. The driver tried and tried to restart the engine but finally ended up pushing the cab. We could see the hotel less than a block away so we paid him and walked to the hotel.
After visiting a museum in Remidos I was examining the pedicab which was our transportation in that Cuban city. After figuring out the bit different break, I asked the driver of our pedicab if I could peddle it back to the bus. He didn’t hesitate and jumped in the backseat with my traveling buddy. I mounted the bike and peddled off in the middle of our pedicab caravan. It was an easy bike ride and fun for me. I guess it caused quite a stir as everyone came out their front door to watch us. I have no idea what they were saying among themselves. I was having a good time!
I was lucky to get to Cuba a month before President Bush cut off all travel to the island country. Our Havana hotel was right on the Malecon—a busy street we’d call the waterfront boulevard. We had wonderful views of the ocean, but we also had a terrific viewing position to watch all the well known 40s and 50s automobiles of my youth. Mingled among all these wonderful old cars were the cutest little yellow coco cabs.
I had been alerted to the coco cabs by a friend, so it was on top of my list to see and ride. Coco cabs are small, yellow, fiber-glass, open vehicles with a small gas engine. The top curves to cover the driver and two passengers who sit in the back. These 3-wheel ‘taxis’ are seen all over the city and the average fee for a ride to about anywhere was three dollars, US.
The coco cab is described many ways. A hollowed out coconut. Like a hat of ancient Hawaiian royalty. A circle with a bite taken out of it. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words. You can decide how to describe them. They’re cute as can be and a lot of fun to ride. They look like they’d be slow, but they actually are pretty fast and zip in and out of traffic with no problems.
One evening we were returning to the hotel after a concert. The ocean was raging throwing huge amounts of water on the Malecon as the waves broke on the seawall. You could say our coco cab was in the wrong place at the wrong time. Enough water splashed onto us to short out the engine. The driver tried and tried to restart the engine but finally ended up pushing the cab. We could see the hotel less than a block away so we paid him and walked to the hotel.
After visiting a museum in Remidos I was examining the pedicab which was our transportation in that Cuban city. After figuring out the bit different break, I asked the driver of our pedicab if I could peddle it back to the bus. He didn’t hesitate and jumped in the backseat with my traveling buddy. I mounted the bike and peddled off in the middle of our pedicab caravan. It was an easy bike ride and fun for me. I guess it caused quite a stir as everyone came out their front door to watch us. I have no idea what they were saying among themselves. I was having a good time!
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
INTERESTING CURIOSITIES
FUN TRIVIA
Pack Horse Bridges
While hiking in England we walked over the 400 year old Slater’s pack-horse bridge. These beautifully arched bridges over becks (small streams) are very narrow. There are many of these quaint 300-400 year-old bridges in good condition still standing in England.
Arched lumber was laid and anchored over the stream. A key stone was placed on the center top, then rocks were laid to the edges. When the wood was removed the rocks locked themselves in place. The pack horse bridges we passed over were very narrow requiring single file so it was hard to imagine a horse dragging a cart ---2 wheels vs. 4 on a wagon--- passing over them. These bridges are so sturdy I wonder if they could even be torn down.
Stile Gate
This is not really a gate, but a built-in mechanism to climb over a stone wall. We climbed over a few of them in England. We were told they were ancient stiles using cantilevered stones as steps. Large stones are left protruding out of the wall to be used as steps. A one shoe-wide hole in the top of the wall is used to place your foot and pivot to climb down the cantilevered stones on the other side to reach the ground. The first time maneuvering these stiles was a bit of a challenge.
Coffee Shops and Cafés
In Amsterdam, Holland you might like to know that a coffee house and a café are not the same thing. You drink coffee in a café. You can legally buy up to 5 grams of pot in a coffee shop/house, but not drink coffee there.
A Bar
In Italy a bar is a sidewalk sandwich shop. One stands at a small round table, often surrounding a support pole, to eat a sandwich. By the way Italy seems to be totally unaware that we like condiments on our sandwiches. A piece of bread, slice of cheese and meat just needs a bit more to taste really good. Individual packets of mustard, ketchup, mayo and relish go with me on my next trip to Italy!
In the old ancient walled city of York, England, a bar is a gate and a gate is a bar. How’s that for confusing when seeking directions?
Pack Horse Bridges
While hiking in England we walked over the 400 year old Slater’s pack-horse bridge. These beautifully arched bridges over becks (small streams) are very narrow. There are many of these quaint 300-400 year-old bridges in good condition still standing in England.
Arched lumber was laid and anchored over the stream. A key stone was placed on the center top, then rocks were laid to the edges. When the wood was removed the rocks locked themselves in place. The pack horse bridges we passed over were very narrow requiring single file so it was hard to imagine a horse dragging a cart ---2 wheels vs. 4 on a wagon--- passing over them. These bridges are so sturdy I wonder if they could even be torn down.
Stile Gate
This is not really a gate, but a built-in mechanism to climb over a stone wall. We climbed over a few of them in England. We were told they were ancient stiles using cantilevered stones as steps. Large stones are left protruding out of the wall to be used as steps. A one shoe-wide hole in the top of the wall is used to place your foot and pivot to climb down the cantilevered stones on the other side to reach the ground. The first time maneuvering these stiles was a bit of a challenge.
Coffee Shops and Cafés
In Amsterdam, Holland you might like to know that a coffee house and a café are not the same thing. You drink coffee in a café. You can legally buy up to 5 grams of pot in a coffee shop/house, but not drink coffee there.
A Bar
In Italy a bar is a sidewalk sandwich shop. One stands at a small round table, often surrounding a support pole, to eat a sandwich. By the way Italy seems to be totally unaware that we like condiments on our sandwiches. A piece of bread, slice of cheese and meat just needs a bit more to taste really good. Individual packets of mustard, ketchup, mayo and relish go with me on my next trip to Italy!
In the old ancient walled city of York, England, a bar is a gate and a gate is a bar. How’s that for confusing when seeking directions?
Saturday, October 16, 2010
ANCIENT SOCAIL CLUB
THE ORDER OF GOOD CHEER
The Port Royal settlement in Nova Scotia, Canada was reconstructed in 1939 by the Canadian government from Champlain’s descriptions and engravings.
Seated on wooden benches at tables in the “meeting room”, the docent caught us eyeing the pewter tableware and said, “The pewter plates and mugs once used by the settlers contained 60% lead!”
I wonder what contribution that had on the life span centuries ago.
Grabbing a beaver tail and top hat, the young docent continued, “The prized fur in the 1600s was beaver tail. The pelts were shaved, then pounded and pressed to produce a felt that was used to make hats all around the world.
“Because of the long harsh winters Champlain established the Order of Good Cheer---the oldest social club in North America. Two or three times a week a member of the settlement was responsible for providing food and entertainment for the entire settlement of 35-40 men. This not only lifted the men’s spirits, but also provided a better diet, lessening illness. The addition of seafood---dolphin and seal, both high in vitamin C---prevented scurvy.”
The docent continued, “In those days Europeans were short, averaging just a bit over five feet, with an average lifespan of 35-40 years. Chief Membertou was over six-foot tall and was 100 years old! What was the difference? Well one was that the Indians bathed several times a week compared to the Europeans bathing only once a quarter---if it was necessary. That might have had something to do with it.”
I bet their clothes could stand all by themselves when they did take them off.
I was interested in the period dress of the college students working as docents for the summer. Black felt, linen lined, knee-length pants were reminiscent of the knickers worn in the 1920-30s. A vest topped long-sleeve homespun white shirts.Wooden shoes, called sabot in French, were worn over knee-high woolen stockings.
When the Frenchmen would get angry at something they sometimes would take off their sabot (wooden shoe) and throw it into the cogwheel fouling things up, thus comes the word sabotage.
What a neat way for these young people to learn their history!
The Port Royal settlement in Nova Scotia, Canada was reconstructed in 1939 by the Canadian government from Champlain’s descriptions and engravings.
Seated on wooden benches at tables in the “meeting room”, the docent caught us eyeing the pewter tableware and said, “The pewter plates and mugs once used by the settlers contained 60% lead!”
I wonder what contribution that had on the life span centuries ago.
Grabbing a beaver tail and top hat, the young docent continued, “The prized fur in the 1600s was beaver tail. The pelts were shaved, then pounded and pressed to produce a felt that was used to make hats all around the world.
“Because of the long harsh winters Champlain established the Order of Good Cheer---the oldest social club in North America. Two or three times a week a member of the settlement was responsible for providing food and entertainment for the entire settlement of 35-40 men. This not only lifted the men’s spirits, but also provided a better diet, lessening illness. The addition of seafood---dolphin and seal, both high in vitamin C---prevented scurvy.”
The docent continued, “In those days Europeans were short, averaging just a bit over five feet, with an average lifespan of 35-40 years. Chief Membertou was over six-foot tall and was 100 years old! What was the difference? Well one was that the Indians bathed several times a week compared to the Europeans bathing only once a quarter---if it was necessary. That might have had something to do with it.”
I bet their clothes could stand all by themselves when they did take them off.
I was interested in the period dress of the college students working as docents for the summer. Black felt, linen lined, knee-length pants were reminiscent of the knickers worn in the 1920-30s. A vest topped long-sleeve homespun white shirts.Wooden shoes, called sabot in French, were worn over knee-high woolen stockings.
When the Frenchmen would get angry at something they sometimes would take off their sabot (wooden shoe) and throw it into the cogwheel fouling things up, thus comes the word sabotage.
What a neat way for these young people to learn their history!
Friday, October 15, 2010
SOME IMPRESSIONS OF CHINA
Many Surprises
On the long airplane flight home from China I had plenty of time to contemplate about the trip and made a list of some of those things I found interesting or a surprise. There is no such thing as a small city in China, small might mean two million people. Even villages would be like a small US city.
The hawkers at all tourist sites in mainland China were annoying as they were in your face and just would not accept no. We were an oddity once we got outside Beijing. But even in Beijing one of our gals with long natural blond hair was asked numerous times to have her picture taken. It seems visiting Chinese from rural areas just were not used to seeing Caucasians.
I marvel over the fact that I managed to successfully use chopsticks eating all my meals with them, never needing to ask for a fork. Food was wonderful everywhere. Bottled water was easily available.
I also was amazed at the lack of western bathrooms. (I suspect there are a lot more now after the Olympics)
We saw no pregnant women in the big cities, but did see an occasional one in the rural areas. We did not see long hair on men. Children were almost always with grandparents. Split pants on toddles were pretty cute.
English was spoken a lot less than the literature indicated. However, it was not a problem.
Traffic was terrible everywhere. Cars went very fast and just dared a pedestrian to get in their way. In Hong Kong they did stop immediately when the light changed. Cars were small. Pickup trucks were very rare. Except in Chongqing bicycles were numerous angling for space on the road with all the automobiles. Many trishaws or tricycles were seen. In the country very primitive means of transportation and farming exist.
Tipping was expected everywhere. There was no such thing as a set price for anything---unless one was in an upscale department store, and then I’m not sure the price wasn’t negotiable even there. Bargaining is a way of life.
Airports were new, clean and nice. Cell phones were everywhere. Skyscrapers are creating new skylines. Buildings were going up everywhere. A huge grocery store in Beijing was a complete surprise with its escalators and three floors. Most often we were served warm wet towels in restaurants and in some places experienced automatic sensored hand-washing machines on entering.
Pet animals were seldom seen. Apparently it is expensive to license a dog. In rural areas we saw occasional dogs and cats. Birds were common pets in the cities.
Western dress was the norm. We saw virtually no ‘native’ dress, and on occasion that we did see any it was ceremonial.
There are many ways to spell the same word or place. The vastness of ancient sites was difficult to comprehend. They are soooo big. Interesting metal sculptures were all over the country. Billboards in the big cities had English added and some of the translations were really funny.
In a restaurant after a toast is made everyone bangs lightly on the glass turntable with his glass. A tipped teapot lid is a signal that more tea is needed.
In Hong Kong the city is full of reflecting glass skyscrapers. There are very few junks left in Victoria Harbor. The sampans are all motorized and pretty much a tourist attraction any more. Rickshaws in the city have disappeared. The subway system in Hong Kong was spotless; we used it with ease.
On the long airplane flight home from China I had plenty of time to contemplate about the trip and made a list of some of those things I found interesting or a surprise. There is no such thing as a small city in China, small might mean two million people. Even villages would be like a small US city.
The hawkers at all tourist sites in mainland China were annoying as they were in your face and just would not accept no. We were an oddity once we got outside Beijing. But even in Beijing one of our gals with long natural blond hair was asked numerous times to have her picture taken. It seems visiting Chinese from rural areas just were not used to seeing Caucasians.
I marvel over the fact that I managed to successfully use chopsticks eating all my meals with them, never needing to ask for a fork. Food was wonderful everywhere. Bottled water was easily available.
I also was amazed at the lack of western bathrooms. (I suspect there are a lot more now after the Olympics)
We saw no pregnant women in the big cities, but did see an occasional one in the rural areas. We did not see long hair on men. Children were almost always with grandparents. Split pants on toddles were pretty cute.
English was spoken a lot less than the literature indicated. However, it was not a problem.
Traffic was terrible everywhere. Cars went very fast and just dared a pedestrian to get in their way. In Hong Kong they did stop immediately when the light changed. Cars were small. Pickup trucks were very rare. Except in Chongqing bicycles were numerous angling for space on the road with all the automobiles. Many trishaws or tricycles were seen. In the country very primitive means of transportation and farming exist.
Tipping was expected everywhere. There was no such thing as a set price for anything---unless one was in an upscale department store, and then I’m not sure the price wasn’t negotiable even there. Bargaining is a way of life.
Airports were new, clean and nice. Cell phones were everywhere. Skyscrapers are creating new skylines. Buildings were going up everywhere. A huge grocery store in Beijing was a complete surprise with its escalators and three floors. Most often we were served warm wet towels in restaurants and in some places experienced automatic sensored hand-washing machines on entering.
Pet animals were seldom seen. Apparently it is expensive to license a dog. In rural areas we saw occasional dogs and cats. Birds were common pets in the cities.
Western dress was the norm. We saw virtually no ‘native’ dress, and on occasion that we did see any it was ceremonial.
There are many ways to spell the same word or place. The vastness of ancient sites was difficult to comprehend. They are soooo big. Interesting metal sculptures were all over the country. Billboards in the big cities had English added and some of the translations were really funny.
In a restaurant after a toast is made everyone bangs lightly on the glass turntable with his glass. A tipped teapot lid is a signal that more tea is needed.
In Hong Kong the city is full of reflecting glass skyscrapers. There are very few junks left in Victoria Harbor. The sampans are all motorized and pretty much a tourist attraction any more. Rickshaws in the city have disappeared. The subway system in Hong Kong was spotless; we used it with ease.
Saturday, October 9, 2010
INNOVATIVE USE OF A PLASTIC BAG
FANTA IN A BAG
While were travelling on Costa Rica’s Independence Day we stopped in some small town to watch the local parade.
“I can’t believe how little some of the children are. They can’t be more than five or six. Look how well they march.” I remarked to my son.
He answered, “They must start music very young in the schools. These little ones are doing remarkably well playing their instruments.”
We stood watching the parade until it was over. Returning to our van one of the gals was thirsty so stopped in the equivalent of a 7-11 or Speedy stop.
She found a bottle of Fanta orange drink. When she paid for it the clerk asked, “Do you want a bag?” He spoke English so there was no misunderstanding him.
She kind of shrugged answering, “Okay.”
The clerk cracked the bottle for her and then proceeded to pour the drink into a plastic bag. He inserted a straw, gathered the bag at the top and handed it over the counter to her. How lucky she was that the bag didn’t leak!
We ran into her walking down the street a few minutes later. She and her husband were still laughing. They stopped long enough to tell us what had happened. Then I told them, “I have had to stay in a store and drink a soda in a couple of places where sodas are still only sold in glass bottles. And I’ve had a bottle emptied in a glass where the bottle never left the hand of the waitress.”
“Like you wanted to steal the bottle and take it home?”
“I guess so. They just never knew I only travel with a 22-inch roll-on and have no room for such nonsense.”
I’ve never had the experience of drinking soda from a bag, but I admit that since this incident, I never see a bottle of Fanta that this story doesn’t flash across my mind.
While were travelling on Costa Rica’s Independence Day we stopped in some small town to watch the local parade.
“I can’t believe how little some of the children are. They can’t be more than five or six. Look how well they march.” I remarked to my son.
He answered, “They must start music very young in the schools. These little ones are doing remarkably well playing their instruments.”
We stood watching the parade until it was over. Returning to our van one of the gals was thirsty so stopped in the equivalent of a 7-11 or Speedy stop.
She found a bottle of Fanta orange drink. When she paid for it the clerk asked, “Do you want a bag?” He spoke English so there was no misunderstanding him.
She kind of shrugged answering, “Okay.”
The clerk cracked the bottle for her and then proceeded to pour the drink into a plastic bag. He inserted a straw, gathered the bag at the top and handed it over the counter to her. How lucky she was that the bag didn’t leak!
We ran into her walking down the street a few minutes later. She and her husband were still laughing. They stopped long enough to tell us what had happened. Then I told them, “I have had to stay in a store and drink a soda in a couple of places where sodas are still only sold in glass bottles. And I’ve had a bottle emptied in a glass where the bottle never left the hand of the waitress.”
“Like you wanted to steal the bottle and take it home?”
“I guess so. They just never knew I only travel with a 22-inch roll-on and have no room for such nonsense.”
I’ve never had the experience of drinking soda from a bag, but I admit that since this incident, I never see a bottle of Fanta that this story doesn’t flash across my mind.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
MONTE CARLO, MONACO
BRING MONEY
I always thought of the rock as Gibraltar, but from Nice, France we headed to Monaco, that tiny principality ruled by the Grimaldi family. We joined the crowd in front of the palace to watch the changing of the guard at 11:55 AM. Of course the guards change several times a day, but the band and all the hoopla takes place at noon.
Jacques Cousteau’s yellow submarine, near the entrance of the aquarium that he was associated with for many years, is a popular photo stop.
Flowers were gorgeous everywhere and the parks quiet, shady and lovely. It was an interesting visit, but I think I would rather quickly develop a case of rock fever .
Monaco is probably as well known for its famous casino, Monte Carlo, as it is for being the small principality that borders France. It was a short 10 minute ride to Monte Carlo, a very small area of Monaco. To enter Monte Carlo casino one must check cameras, show your passport and pay a 10 euro ($15) admission fee. I questioned our guide about the difference between Monte Carlo and the American casino only a few meters away. His answer, “The games are European.” That didn’t tell me much, but as one who can barely cope with a slot machine, I figured I’d never make it playing foreign games with French instructions. I really was only interested in seeing it.
The French call it a connish. We would call the narrow winding asphalt roadway with its hairpin curves simply a coastal road. Not doing the driving afforded me the opportunity to enjoy the marvelous views of the sparking Mediterranean below where boats and yachts were anchored in the coves. I’d be willing to bet that the people fortunate enough to live in the homes climbing up the steep hillsides take the spectacular scenery and views for granted as they see and live them every day.
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| The Famous Monte Carlo |
It was a short walk from the palace to the church where Prince Rainier and Princess Grace were married and are buried. This church has a special ‘royal entrance’. However, we entered through the regular doors and joined the short line to walk around to the back of the altar to view the royal grave sites.
Jacques Cousteau’s yellow submarine, near the entrance of the aquarium that he was associated with for many years, is a popular photo stop.
Flowers were gorgeous everywhere and the parks quiet, shady and lovely. It was an interesting visit, but I think I would rather quickly develop a case of rock fever .
Monaco is probably as well known for its famous casino, Monte Carlo, as it is for being the small principality that borders France. It was a short 10 minute ride to Monte Carlo, a very small area of Monaco. To enter Monte Carlo casino one must check cameras, show your passport and pay a 10 euro ($15) admission fee. I questioned our guide about the difference between Monte Carlo and the American casino only a few meters away. His answer, “The games are European.” That didn’t tell me much, but as one who can barely cope with a slot machine, I figured I’d never make it playing foreign games with French instructions. I really was only interested in seeing it.
The American casino is totally Vegas where the lights inside are blinding. We walked in, circled the area and walked out. At the sidewalk café we visited with friends and when I saw that a 12 oz bottle of chilled cola was going to set me back twelve dollars, I decided I really didn’t need it. Two scoops of ice cream with a dab of whip cream and a tiny wafer served in a dish was $22---I didn’t need that either. So, I guess the rule is if you go to Monte Carlo take money!
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