WHAKAREWAREWA

                             Rotarura, New Zealand

     Whakarewarewa is a mouth full and I don’t even try to pronounce it. Locals call it Whaka, which is pronounced Faka , as in the Maori language wh is pronounced like an f.

     Whaka, located in Rotarura, is one of the most accessible thermal areas in New Zealand. From my hotel room the steam rising from the vents, beyond the  fence, gave  a very mystical feeling to the area. The village gives one an extensive insight into Maori culture, which has fascinated me ever since I lived so many years in Hawaii.

     The earth bubbles, boils and spits everywhere, and the air is  pungent with a hydrogen sulfide aroma. The Maori cook in a natural steam oven called a hangi. Strategically placed, the Maori never worry about building a fire because they have steam twenty-four hours a day. Vegetables are wrapped in cloth then covered in burlap and securely tied before being submerged to cook in boiling pools.

     Pipes lead from the cooking pool down to large communal bathtubs. The clear water flows by gravity to the lower tubs, The pools are filled each morning so that by evening the water is cool enough for bathing. The tubs are drained each evening then scrubbed and cleaned.

     The geyser, Pohutu, meaning ‘big splash’ shoots 80-feet into the air several times a day. I was lucky to see Pohutu show off with a spectacular display.

     The cemetery of this village was above ground because one finds himself  in hot water if he digs very deep into the ground.

      We saw several ti trees in the village and learned that the wood has been used for many years for medicinal purposes, for a dye, and for durable fence posts. Authentic Maori woodcarvings have only three fingers on the hands as the Maori believe only in birth, fertility, and death.

     Rotarura is a lovely little city and Whaka is a fascinating  and interesting place to visit. The Maori are friendly and love to teach about their culture.

RECENT VISIT TO EMBREA

                            Civilization is Encroaching 

            I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to an Embrea village 17 years ago. The hour ride up the Sambu River through the Darien Jungle was a delight early in the morning. It was authentic.

            Progress sometimes makes me sad. I’m not sorry I made a visit to another village  recently, as it was a chance to introduce my grandchildren to an entirely different life-style. But seeing ‘civilization’ encroaching on the native tribal customs gave me pause.

          This village was easily accessible as it was located right on the river bank, close to our rainforest hotel. American capitalism had built concrete steps and iron rail from the river edge up into the village. I appreciated the easy access, but couldn’t it all have been done in a more rustic approach

to blend in with the village? And really did we need to have a toilet installed near the main structure? If a toilet was such a necessity how about a low profile chemical one. Give me a break!

New Construction

       Women now covered their torso with a beaded minimal halter top. I noted a new motor boat in the back of the village—however a native cayucu was pulled on the shore in the front of the village. A new building under construction was large, had ordinary steps and obviously lumber from the lumber store was being used. Maybe because trees are not supposed to be cut in the rainforest---I’d like to think that was the reason, but it did seem the building looked out of place with its metal instead of thatched roof!

         I would guess that fast food had entered their diet as their bodies were hardly lean. They obviously understood a good deal of English. Their handicrafts are still well made, but many tourist-type trinkets have been added, like woven bracelets available everywhere one goes.

     My daughter and I discussed these changes and I had an extensive conversation with our guide about them. If I had not made a previous trip would I have been so keen to notice the changes? Knowing me, probably, or at least questioned them. I did not mention any of the above to my 18 and 20 year old granddaughters. I did not want to spoil their excitement and adventure. 

        The small children were adorable! The girls had great fun talking to them and playing. The little ones obviously are used to interacting with visitors. I wonder when these youngsters will want to go off to a ‘better life’ and how long before the culture will just disappear. I didn’t see any cell phones, but that doesn’t mean they weren’t there. Sometimes progress just makes me very sad!