MONTREAL TRIVIA

                                             City Odds and Ends

Montreal comes from Mont Royal.

People were very friendly and helpful. Several times people would stop to ask if they could help when they saw us studying a map. English was not a problem as it seems everyone is bi-lingual doing very well with both languages.

In the city’s heyday of the 1920s, Saint Jacques Street was known as Canada’s Wall Street. The Royal Bank’s former head office, with its 23 stories, was the tallest building in the British Empire when it was built in 1928.

Lots of stairs to climb getting in and out of Metro stations. Escalators are available only after getting down into the station.

Except for the streets, Montreal does not appear very handicap friendly.

The city is very easy to get around, as it’s pretty much laid out on a grid. It is also a very easy city to walk. The city and Metro maps are excellent, complete and easy to follow.

Canada is the world’s largest producer of mustard.

The French Pavilion from the 1967 Expo is now a casino and one of only two buildings from the Expo that survived.

       McGill U was all white male until the late 1800s when a benefactor gave money to educate women.

      Sainte Catherine Street, stretching 15 kilometers across the city, is Montreal’s renowned commercial thoroughfare. Lined with major department stores, shops, and restaurants, it has been the pride of Montreal for over a century. There are eight metro stations on the street.

Poutine, French fries with cheese curds and gravy, is a typical dish unique to Montreal.

Canada also produces 70% of the world’s maple syrup and Quebec accounts for 90% of that.

With the flavors of many cultures on every street corner, eating in Montreal is a culinary adventure. The city has 5000 restaurants that represent 80 different countries.

We noted very few cell phone users and actually saw many regular phone booths around the cities.

People seem to follow a relaxed routine. In the Metro the on and off process is very orderly with no elbowing one’s way. Let the people off, then board.

Exactly seems to be a frequent and proper response to a statement or question. It is often delivered with a tilt of the head and an emphatic expression.

MONTREAL SITES

                                 A Great City for Walking

 We spent a good amount of time with a local English-speaking docent in the Notre Dame Basilica, the Jewel of Montreal. One of the largest and most beautiful churches in North America, designed with double balconies all around, it can seat 3800 people. This church was the start of the Catholic mission in the city. The first church was in the middle of what is now the street. This neo-gothic structure sits above the original 17^th century church.

      It houses a 7000-pipe organ. The church’s masterpiece is its interior. Forestry was big

Gorgeous Notre Dame Basilica

business and all the decoration is carved red pine and gilded. The marble-looking statures on the altar are carved of white pine. Only the name is the same as the church in Paris. This church has twin towers.

      The star-studded blue vaulted ceiling is unusual. The stain glass windows are by Limoges, and the church houses one of largest bells in North America.

     The pulpit is no longer used, as microphones came into use in 1960. The architect, O’Donnell, was Protestant, but made a death bed conversion to Catholicism, so he could be buried in the church.

 The 1929 Royal Bank of Canada (RBC) has a lovely interior. Marble floors are topped with graceful arches. The ceiling is beautifully coffered in geometric designs. The Florentine –style on a grand scale-- is the landmark of Montreal’s gilded age. The top of the wall below the ceiling is decorated with the coat-of-arms of the eight provinces that made up Canada at that time. The 22-story tower is made of a pale yellow stone.

   

 Marche Bonsecours, the graceful silver-domed neo-classical building dominates the waterfront of Old Montreal. Built in 1847 of gray stone, it is a wonderful example of the neo-classical style of the times. The cast iron columns were brought from England. The imposing building was the city’s main agricultural marketplace for over a century. It has also housed a concert house, and In the 1960s it was converted into municipal offices.  Recent renovations have turned it once again into a bustling marketplace that features sidewalk cafés, shops, boutiques and exhibitions

      French architecture typically has solid stone wall construction. The roofs are steep with dormers. The windows are small and have many small panes in them. The glass panes were shipped in molasses from France to prevent breakage, and then assembled on arrival. The double small windows helped keep heat in the home during the winter. On the first floor the windows were what we know as French doors, and had heavy wooden shutters to cover them in winter.

    

  Cartier pedestrian walkway. Built in 1804 and restored in 1998, the square is on the site of an old chateau. Once used as a public market, the square is now surrounded by cafés, restaurants, museums, boutiques, and art galleries. The statue of Admiral Nelson, at the far end, was erected in 1809. Standing in the middle of the walkway affords one a superb view of the Old Port.

     Getting to Little Italy, north of the city, meant using the Metro and transferring. It is the largest ethnic area in the city.

     We made our way to the Madonna della Defesa Church, 1919, to see the extraordinary frescos. One fresco in the center ceiling had a strange configuration. The church was named after a miracle that took place in Italy in 1898. The white marble altar dates to 1950 and is backed with a white tile semicircular wall. The stain glass is in a rosette design with the stain glass being round. It appeared there was a head in center of each part of each rosette. This interesting church was quite different than those we had seen.

     In Petit Italy we followed the walking tour map seeing many lovely homes with picturesque, outside, winding, wrought-iron stair-cases. Each one seemed to be prettier than the previous one. Continuing on down Dante Street to St. Laurent we came into an area lined with cafés and trattorias—perfect for a late lunch!

      Montreal has a small Chinatown with some good restaurants. Other sites of interest include Mount Royal Park, Saint Joseph’s Oratory, Victoria Square, Olympic Park, Cathedral Christ Church, City Hall 

     Montreal has a fast, efficient, easy to use metro system as well as buses and cabs. We spent a day in Olympic Park which is only a short subway ride away.  Another day we hired a cab to see the sites in and spend the day in Mount Royal Park. There is much to see and do in Montreal and it is a delightful metropolitan city.

MONTREAL, CANADA

                                  A Delightful City

      Often referred to as the Paris of the North America, more French is spoken here than in any city outside of Paris. Montreal is the capitol of Quebec Province, all of which is predominately French-speaking. 

      A cosmopolitan atmosphere exists with a European flavor where old world charm is gracefully combined with modern sensibility. It is a bustling study in contrasts where Victorian brownstones nuzzle skyscrapers, and architectural marvels soar beside stately neo-gothic churches. The city blends the old and new with ease that presents a very comfortable feel. Crime is low and the city is safe to walk most anywhere at any time.

      In 1535 French explorer, Jacques Cartier, was looking for passage to India, and was the first white man to set foot on the island that became Montreal. At that time it was the site of a Hochelega and Iroquois village. In 1611 de Champlain fortified a settlement and trading center at the confluence of the St. Lawrence, Ottawa and Richelieu Rivers.

      The British conquered New France in 1759, but they confirmed the right of the French people to maintain their faith, language and legal code. For many decades the minority British ran the city’s economy. In 1867 the Articles of Confederation joined the provinces of Ottawa, Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia into Canada, effectively ending British rule in Ottawa.

      OLD MONTREAL (Vieux Montreal) is southeast of down town, near the waterfront. The picturesque cobbled city is full of art and architecture. Electric Victorian street lamps softly illuminate the 18^th and 19^th century town houses that line the narrow lanes of Old Montreal. Near Rue St. Helene the 1870 gas lights burn twenty-four hours a day and are the only real functioning gas lights in the city.

      The city's port operations were crucial to the fascinating saga of Montréal's development. Because the Lachine Rapids blocked further upstream navigation on the St. Lawrence River, the city was born and flourished at this natural shipping breakpoint. The Lachine Canal opened in 1825 allowed ships to bypass the rapids. Rail transportation in 1893 made Montréal a bustling hub of commerce and trade between the North American continent and the rest of the world, and the pivotal point in an integrated transportation network.  A mile and a half esplanade runs along the waterfront, where the harbor is the pulse of the city.

      Sherbrooke St, running east to west, is the main artery through down town. Numbers run north from the river. Boulevard St-Laurent running north to south splits city east and west.

     F/E means both French and English is spoken, although we never saw such a sign. I don’t speak French, but we had no speech problem as nearly everyone speaks English also.  Montreal has a large gay community and is gay-friendly. From all appearances the city is race tolerant as ethnicities blend as well as the architecture.

      Place d’ Armes faces Notre Dame. In the center of the square is a monument to Montréal's founder, Paul de Chomedey de Maisonneuve. On this site he and a few Frenchmen had a brief skirmish with some Iroquois Indians resulting in a French win. It is the heart of the city's historic centre and sums up its diverse heritage. The red brick New York Life building sits to the right of the square. Built in 1888, it is the city’s first skyscraper. Offices occupy the building now with an apartment in the clock tower. The domed Bank of Montréal, 1817, building sits behind the Place d’ Armes. It is the oldest banking institution in the country. The façade of the head office is inspiring evoking the power of Rome. Redesigned in 1905, the lavish interior echoes the success of the institution. After the English won the battle of the Plains of Abraham, 1759, Scots emigrated to Quebec and set up the banking industry.

      Montreal gets 9-feet of snow a year so all the big buildings have underground parking to keep cars off the street and plows able to function.

You might like to also check post: Olympic park 1-16-13

                                       Montreal & Quebec City Surprises 3-3-13

                                       Chateau Ramezay  3-31-13

MONTREAL, CANADA

                                          City Highlights

 Getting from the airport into the city entails getting the hotel shuttle, going to the Greyhound terminal and then taking a smaller shuttle to your hotel. This process took me two and a half hours and my friend from L A three hours. Once in the city it is very walkable and easy to get around. With a low crime rate it is safe to walk anywhere anytime.

     Montreal, often referred to as the Paris of North America, is the capitol of Quebec Province where French is the predominant language. However, nearly everyone also speaks English.

The city is a bustling study in contrasts where Victorian brownstones nuzzle skyscrapers, and architectural marvels soar beside stately neo-gothic churches. The city blends the old and new with ease.

In 1535 French explorer, Jacques Cartier, looking for passage to India, was the first white man to set foot on the island that became Montreal. It was the site of a Hochelega and Iroquois village. In 1611 de Champlain fortified a settlement and trading center at the confluence of the St. Lawrence, Ottawa and Richelieu Rivers. The British conquered New France in 1759, but they confirmed the right of the French people to maintain their faith, language and legal code. For many decades the minority British ran the city’s economy. In 1867 the Articles of Confederation joined the provinces of Ottawa, Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia into Canada which effectively ended British rule in Ottawa.

            Our first morning we headed to Notre Dame Basilica to pick up an English-speaking walking tour of the city.  The jewel of Montreal, it is one of the largest and most beautiful churches in North America. Designed with double balconies all around, it can seat 3800 people. This neo-gothic church, the start of the Catholic mission in the city, sits above the original 17^th century church. The first church was in the middle of what is now the street.

The organ has 7000 pipes. When forestry was big business, all the inside decoration was carved of red pine that now has been gilded. The marble-looking statues are carved white pine. This church has twin towers. The star-studded blue vaulted ceiling is unusual. The stain glass windows are by Limoges, and the church houses one of largest bells in North America.

            Our guide added, “The pulpit is no longer used, as microphones came into use in 1960. The architect, O’Donnell, was Protestant, but made a death bed conversion to Catholicism, so he is buried here in the church.”

            We spent a lot of time inside the church and in fact returned again another day to admire its lovely interior.

In lovely old Montreal the antique gas lights have been converted to electricity, but there is still one street where the old gas lights remain fueled by gas and are left on 24-hours a day. The cobbled old city is near the waterfront.

The monument to Montréal's founder, Paul de Chomedey de Maisonneuve, in the square marks the city’s historic center. It also marks the site where he and a few Frenchmen had a brief skirmish with some Iroquois Indians resulting in a French win. The red brick New York Life building, built in 1888 and the city’s first skyscraper, sits to the right of the square.. Many old warehouses have been converted into apartments and condominiums, and many of the old 18^th century banks have been converted into hotels.

Marche Bonsecours with its graceful silver-domed and neo-classical architecture is hard to miss, as it dominates the waterfront of Old Montreal. Built in 1847 of gray stone, the cast iron columns were brought from England. The imposing building, with its silver dome, was the city’s main agricultural marketplace for over a century and is now full of small boutiques.

Montreal’s French architecture typically has solid stone wall construction. The roofs are steep with dormers. The windows are small with many small panes in them. The glass panes were shipped in molasses from France, to prevent breakage, and then assembled on arrival. The double small windows help keep heat in the home during the winter. On the first floor the windows were what we know as French doors, and had heavy wooden shutters to cover them in winter.

 Other city highlights are noted elsewhere in greater length and detail. Montreal is a wonderful city where we had a most enjoyable and interesting time.

CHATEAU RAMEZAY MUSEUM

        Montreal's Jewel of a Museum

I can’t tell you how many churches, castles, old homes and museums I have visited over the years while traveling. I always look for something new or unusual and the Chateau Ramezay Museum in Montreal was a real gem for new discoveries. Here our 45-minute tour with Margaret, a retired British school teacher, married to a French Canadian, continued for over two-hours. What a delight she was! And we learned so much.

She told us, “Claude Ramezay built this chateau in 1705 as a family home. He started out as a soldier in a French regiment, eventually went into furs, then wood, and eventually became governor. At that time the average house was the size of the kitchen in this home. He could not bring his wife and ten children to Montreal to such a small home so he built this chateau.”

The lovely home now would have been magnificent in the early 18^th century! This building was the first in the city to be designated a historical monument. Mrs. Ramezay had 16 pregnancies, but only 10 children lived to adulthood. Three of the four boys died in war or conflicts, and the fourth boy after one such conflict moved to France to live. When Claude died in 1745, the house was sold to a fur trading company. Now the museum is run by a board of directors, not the government. In 1994 it celebrated 100 years as a museum.

In one large room we were told the mahogany paneling and ornate carvings around mirrors and paintings all came from a fur trading company before it was demolished and then installed in the chateau in 1967 for the 100^th anniversary of Confederation.

I had never heard of a butter drier, much less seen one. The copper wall mounted hand washing apparatus was unique and quite decorative. I had seen many tin candle holders, but never knew that they were wind proof and that was the purpose of them.

Candles in colonial days were often quite soft and we saw a clever candle holder that made sense to hold up a soft candle. It prevented potential fire by keeping the candle from falling over.

I was most fascinated with the pocket worn around the waist under a woman’s skirt with the slit in it. Talk about practical! My friend was most intrigued with the barrel that they put a dog in to keep the spit turning over the fire. A doggie treadmill, if you will. We both thought it was for a mouse, but of course, it was much too big. Now that was really clever!  It kept the dog out from underfoot and kept the spit constantly rotating!

It was so obvious that Margaret loved what she was doing. I loved that sparkle in her eye, and without her we would have missed a lot. It was an afternoon well spent!

CANADIAN SURPRISES

                 Montreal

We noticed on our first meal in Montreal that fries were on everyone’s plate, no matter what the entre was, and we learned later in the week that mashed, baked or scalloped potatoes just are not served in this area. It’s French fries, and how they love ‘em!

Poutine, French fries with cheese curds and gravy, is a typical dish unique to Montreal. 

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After visiting a museum we walked back to Jacques Cartier (square) and down to the waterfront. We leisurely strolled along the street. A couple of gals, sitting at the sidewalk café of Pier Gabriel were enjoying a pitcher of a green drink.

Slowing down, I remarked, “That sure looks refreshing.”

“Let’s stop and find out what it is.”

Inside, the bartender said it was green sangria and explained all the ingredients, starting with white wine. We decided to give it a try. It was really good, but we agreed that sangria is red.

It’s like the blue and yellow candy canes. No. Candy canes are red and white! Sangria is red.

The drinks were tall, rather costly, so it took us awhile to drink them. But we enjoyed people watching and the respite before starting back to the hotel via Chinatown.

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                                        Quebec City

Wandering around the narrow alleyways of Quebec City we quite by accident came across the old stone house, Maison Chevalier. Built in 1752 by a ship owner, the classic French-style is typical of architecture of New France. The firewalls, chimneys, vaulted cellars, original wood beams and stone fireplaces were noteworthy. What a jewel this museum was and it was free. We chit chatted with a docent. The self-guided tour of life in the 17-18^th centuries was well displayed with simple explanations and labels. It was a pleasant find and delightful surprise.

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The staircases are ubiquitous to Quebec City--a reminder of the city’s past,. Upper Town was the home of dignitaries, religious and political leaders, where Lower Town contains the oldest neighborhood in North America. Once crowded with traders, workers and the disenfranchised, now it is a delightful restored smart shopping and historical area.

The Escalier Casse-Cou, also known as the Breakneck staircase, is the first staircase, built in 1893. The 170 steps are built on the site of the original 17^th century stairway that linked Upper with Lower Towns. Today shops and cafés can be found at various levels of the staircase..