A large whale bone archway, near the
harbor, greets visitors to Whitby, known as the gem of the northeast coast. From 1750-1850 it was the sixth most important
seaport in the UK primarily transporting coal to London. The Esk River runs
through the city. A swing bridge provides passage from the populated side of
the city to the abbey side.
At
one time there were three ship building yards in Whitby. In fact, Captain
Cook’s Endeavor was built in Whitby.
Rope making, fishing, whaling, and alum mining were once important industries.
Whaling
provided oil for lubricating machinery, softening leather, and making soap and
candles. Whitby was one of the first European cities to have gas lamps—with
whale oil.
William
Scoresby, a farm boy, attended school until age 9, then he worked on the farm
until 16 when he broke family tradition of following in his dad’s footsteps and
went to sea. He sailed on the Speedwell and was captain of many ships. In 1753
he started whaling. He is credited with inventing the crow’s nest.
At
age 10, William Scoresby Jr. stowed away on his father’s ship. At age 13 he
apprenticed, at 18 was a mate, and a captain at 21. He invented the marine
diver to measure salt and temperature of water at different depths. He did over
300 experiments of the effect of magnetism on a compass and on a ship.
He left the sea at age 33 pursuing
the ministry. Leaving the sea meant a huge pay cut for the young Scoresby.
However, he continued experiments and scientific studies publishing many
scientific papers. In 1825 he studied the effect of pollution on the air and
environment, but his studies were short lived, no doubt because of industry
pressure and influence.
St. Hilde, a 7th century abbey, dominated Whitby. After wandering around the town we tackled
the 199 steps up to the abbey and the nearby St. Mary’s church. We had a nice
view of the harbor once at the top. The abbey is much smaller than Rievaulx but
a gorgeous gothic structure.
England is full of old churches, abbeys, and castles. One
can visit only so many and, although each has its own history and background,
that is usually enough.
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