TIBET

                                                          Lhasa, Tibet

 

      Most of Tibet is too arid and cold to support human life. Geographically the country is about the size of France. The huge plateau has an altitude between 1000-5000 meters (3900-15400’). The Qamdo region in the eastern plateau is at a lower elevation and is drained by the headwaters of the Salween, Mekong, and Yangtze Rivers. The Lhasa area has a greater rainfall than the rest of Tibet, the climate is less severe, and most of the population lives here. Semi-nomadic shepherds who tend herds of sheep, yak, and horses live on the uplands surrounding the valleys. The towering Himalayas, surrounding the Tibetan plateau on three sides, made it an insurmountable obstacle to travelers and invaders.

     The country has existed since the 7^th century as a remote mountain theocracy based on the mystical tenets of Lamaism. Here feudal Lamas, whose spiritual authority was matched by their complete control of internal affairs, ruled the population. Some reigns were benevolent, others were ruthless. After the 9^th century the monasteries became increasingly more political, and in 1641 the Yellow Hats crushed their rivals, the Red Hats. The Yellow Hats adopted the title of Dalai Lama (Ocean of Wisdom).

     The autonomy of the lamas waxed and waned during various Chinese dynasties, with almost complete independence enjoyed during the Republican era, 1912-1949. The revolution brought changes. China invaded Tibet in 1950, and in 1951 military action and pressured negotiation reestablished China’s sovereignty. After years of increasing suppression, a revolt broke out and the Dalai Lama escaped disguised as a scholar walking over the Himalayas to India, where he remains today. Known as the Living Prince of Peace, the Dalai Lama is now elderly.. After 9/11 he called President Bush to express his condolences.

     Widespread persecution of the Tibetan people continued, reaching a peak during the Cultural Revolution. Between 1950-’70, over a million Tibetans were killed, 100,000 were exiled, and most of Tibet’s cultural heritage destroyed. Thousands of monks and nuns were sent to labor camps. Hundreds of ancient monasteries were destroyed. Arbitrary agricultural reforms such as imposed planting of unfamiliar crops, and the collectivization of yak and goat herds undermined traditional Tibetan culture. The population further destabilized when the Chinese government encouraged non-Tibetan Chinese to settle in Tibet. In spite of such hardships the Tibetan culture has continued to thrive under the stewardship of the exiled Dalai Lama, who received the Nobel Peace Prize in 1989.     

    Chinese built factories and infrastructure, so don’t understand the Tibetan ingratitude. The Chinese honestly believe that they saved the Tibetans from feudalism and that their continued occupation is a mission of mercy. For a long time the Tibetans saw the situation very differently as they found it hard to forgive the destruction of their monasteries or the assault on their religion and culture.

     One afternoon six of us went to visit the Sera Monastery, an active temple where monks are in training. Founded in 1419, Sera means stone hill. It also is the name of a ‘roseberry bush’. At one time every family sought to send a son to become a monk and the monastery accommodated 5000-6000 monks. But like other religions fewer people are choosing the celibate life. Many monks were persecuted or killed during the revolution. Today there are about 700 monks at the Sera Monastery. Upon entering the temple we saw a monk sitting on the floor printing. He was fast and it was fascinating to watch him. The pages were about 4 X 15 inches and he printed 100 copies of the page before going on to the next page. Pressing prayers onto cloth was the first form of printing.

    As we circled the temple we saw a few pilgrims moving clockwise with their prayer wheels and beads. The really intriguing thing here was the philosophical debates taking place in the shaded courtyard.

    At 3 o’clock a monk on the roof banged a gong to alert everyone that the two-hour debates were about to begin. The monks work in pairs, with the older monk asking a newer one a question. If answered correctly the older monk slapped his hands, palms together. If the answer was wrong he slapped his open palm with the back side of his right hand. If he pulls the prayer beads up his arm to the elbow it means that he will teach the newer monk the correct answer. It was extremely noisy in the courtyard and I wondered how anyone could even hear a question, much less answer it. It was an interesting visit.

    There are 500 million Buddhists in the world who believe that time on earth is temporary. Out of death and destruction comes life. Buddhist art is not self-expressive, each part has a meaning and artists do not sign their work.

    Each morning we opened our drapes and curtains wide to allow the sun to shine through and warm up the room. It was effective. We had clear , warm, sunny days all the time we were in Tibet. It stayed light until after 9:00 PM but did not get light in the morning until 7ish.

   Tibet has an interesting culture. It was a fantastic visit.

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