KOBLENZ, GERMANY

                                                    A Charming City

      Koblenz is one of the most beautiful and oldest towns in Germany with over 2000 years of history. Surrounded by four low mountain ranges, the picturesque old city has an abundance of cultural monuments and historic buildings, as well as many cosy lanes and narrow alleyways. Cobbled river promenades and lovely squares are a real treat. In the historic center narrow lanes and sidewalk cafes are abundant. (English spelling replaces the K with a C.)

     Originally the city was in the shape of a triangle as it is at the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel Rivers, while the third side provided fortification for the medieval city. The Mosel is spanned by a 1344 Gothic freestone bridge with 14 arches, and two modern road bridges as well as two railway bridges. The arched bridge is built over Roman supports. It was damaged during WW II but repaired and rebuilt. We were docked within sight of this bridge and walked down to check it out.

    Our walking guide told us, “Koblenz was one of the military posts established by Drusus about 8 BC; the city celebrated its 2000th anniversary in 1992. This Roman town became very important in the 13^th century as an important link for European trade. During WW II the city was heavily bombed and 87% of the city destroyed because munitions were manufactured here in addition to it being an important transportation center. A plaque in the pedestrian walkway says 3772 flights dropped 10,000 tons of bombs in a short time destroying 15,000 of the 25,000 homes. Over 1000 people died and many more were injured. The old city was rebuilt using many of the old facades.”

    Parts of the old city wall, which contained 21 towers, are still visible. As we walked I thought how the colorful and cheerful window flower boxes were reminiscent of Switzerland. Many towers were visible in the skyline, many with onion domes. Except for a wee bit of wood trim, the houses are brick or stucco with slate roofs. Typical in this part of the world, most of the buildings were joined with no right of way between.

Policeman greeting a local vendor

     We detoured into the small area in front of the Mittelrhein Museum, a late Gothic building erected between 1419-1430. Poised above the entry door and below the clock is the augenroller (eye roller). I was intrigued with how his eyes seem to move around as you viewed him from different angles.

    Jesuits arrived in 1580 to ensure the survival of Catholicism. The entrance way and door to the Jesuit college is the only original part of the building.

     Manhole covers are seldom of interest, but leave it to me to find an unusual one The French occupied this area for twenty years. It was home to French refugees during the French revolution. Of course only males were here and eventually some of them married German girls. Their offspring were called schangel. The brass covers in the city depict a mischievous little boy.  Koblenz also has many comical and descriptive statues around town.

    The Church of Our Lady demonstrated three architectural styles. The twin towers were Romanesque, the chapel Gothic and the onion-shaped domes Baroque. The stained glass windows on the side of the church were an unusual scallop shape.

    The Basillica of St. Castor, founded in 836, has four towers. The present Romanesque building was completed in 1208 and the vaulted Gothic roof dates to 1498. The French erected a fountain in 1812 in front of the church including an inscription to commemorate Napoleon’s invasion of Russia.

Koblenz is a charming and interesting city and certainly is worthy of a visit.