One National Park
Terra
Nova National Park is
located at Bonavista Bay where native Archaic and Paleo-Eskimo
peoples stood more than 5000 years ago. Established in 1957, it is
the Province’s first National Park. Located on the eastern edge of
Newfoundland and also Canada’s most easterly national park, the
park's beautiful rugged coastal area has a variety of habitats.
Fingers of
the Sea
protect remnants of the ancient Appalachian Mountains. Rocky
headlands provide shelter from the awesome power of the open ocean.
Its
154 square miles of pristine wilderness includes thick marsh land,
rugged cliffs and sheltered inlets of the coastal region to the
rolling forested hills, bogs, marshes, coves, ponds and boreal
forests and inland sheltered bays. The natural and untouched ponds
and bogs provide a safe haven for moose, black bear and lynx.
Fourteen native species live in the park, but that is a small number
compared to the 40 species in Labrador and 50 in Nova Scotia. It is
home to the largest bald eagle population in North America.
Cultural
history abounds in the remnants of sawmills and past human cultures.
It is an excellent area for nature viewing. Whales can be seen from
the shoreline and birds soar above the trees. Kayaking is a popular
activity, and there are 60 miles of hiking paths.
At
the Discovery Center there is a touch and feel aquatic tank which was
a fascination to many who had not experienced such a thing. A short
movie runs almost continually.
Not
far from the park is the Joey Overlook giving a view of the village
of Gambo located down by the river. Joey Smallwood is considered the
father of federation. A man of passion and vision he fought hard for
Newfoundland and Labrador to join the federation. Joey’s
grandfather established a saw mill in Gambo in 1862. Fire a hundred
years later burned the forest and brought that industry to an end.
Joey, born in 1900, was the first of 13 children.
Restaurants
in the province were almost always connected to a motel and of course
there was no fast food or cafés. We had wonderful food the whole
trip---some of the best cod I’ve ever eaten. One memorable lunch
included moose pie that I ordered and decided to top off the meal
with wonderful piece of flaky rhubarb pie and ice cream! My mouth
waters now as I recall the friendly staff, ambiance and great meal.
One
a Sunday a visit at the
Salmonid Interpretative
Center in Grand Falls was
most interesting. Paul Parsons came in on his day off to tell us all
about the center and tour us around the facility. The first thing
Paul said was, “We operate under ERMA which stands for
Environmental Resources Management Association, which is not
a government agency, even though it sounds like one. We are the
largest watershed enhancement center of Atlantic salmon. The Exploits
River, largest river in the province, divides the province and has
been industrialized for a long time, primarily by the paper mill.
“The
center came into being in the late 1970s. Fish ladders and a fish
elevator at Red Indian Lake help the salmon get to their spawning
grounds. After spawning followed by three years in fresh water then
two years in salt water, the salmon return to spawn. These salmon are
repeat spawners and do not
die after spawning like other salmon do. In the beginning we had to
seed the river. We removed eggs, incubated them and had a 95% success
rate compared to only 10% in the wild. The salmon could not be
removed to a new area because the new fish would still be imprinted
to return to mom’s spawning area.”
While
viewing the salmon in the counting window Paul said, “The salmon
are just beginning to return. We’ll probably open the gate in a
couple of days and start this year’s count. The numbers have been
steadily increasing and we expect that to be true this year.”
Paul
was a very passionate environmentalist. From the center it was only a
short walk up to a viewing area to see the falls that the city was
named for. The water was clear and clean. Purple and pink lupines
bloomed in many patches.
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