Pizarro
founded Lima, along the banks of the Rimac River, in 1535. The colonial port on
the Pacific Ocean was basically a small city for 400 years, and for 300 years
the capitol of Spain’s South American Empire. The population explosion, started
in the 1920s, has now swelled Lima into a bustling crowded city with a
population of 7 million. One third of the country’s population lives in the
huge metropolitan, capitol city. As such it is overcrowded, noisy and polluted.
Heavy traffic is a constant.
Shantytowns
that lack electricity, water, or adequate sanitary facilities have been created
by the influx of poor people and surround this City of Kings. Several upscale suburbs are located 10-12 Ks outside
the central city.
Lima was the richest and most
powerful town in colonial times. The many downtown colonial buildings and
plazas bespeak the city’s past as the political and economic center of the
Spanish colonies in South America. A
disastrous 1746 earthquake destroyed the city. However rebuilding was rapid, so
most of the colonial buildings date from after that earthquake.
Plaza de Armas, renamed Plaza de Mayor a
few years ago, is the heart of Lima, and from there one can angle out in any
direction. It is the city’s administrative and political center. Located here
is the Government Palace, City Hall, and the Cathedral.
In 1551 the University of San Marcus was
established and was one of the first universities in South America. The city
today is full of museums, and churches.
Pickpockets
and slashers are rampant in all crowded places in Peru. Snatching of watches
and cameras is common, as well as the slashing of backpacks and fanny-packs. One
should always be aware of his environment and what’s around him, but being on
high alert all the time sure diminishes one’s enjoyment of any city.
AGUAS CALIENTES
Most
people, who are more sensible, take the train to Aguas Calientas and spend the
night before taking a bus up to Machu Picchu the next morning. Instead we spent
four days hiking to the site entering it through the sun gate, or the back door.
After an extended stay at the site,we
took the that bus over the 8-kilometer dusty switchback dirt road to Aguas
Calientes where we boarded a train in late afternoon.
Aguas
Calientes could be any border town. Close your eyes and give it any name you
like. It’s a dusty, dingy, poor, little
town. The main street is lined with vendor shacks, all with the same tourist articles
for sale. Show even the slightest interest and one is greeted with, “Senora”,
followed by a stream of Spanish, which I never could follow. I just didn’t have the energy to look at the
same old, same old.
We
made our way to the recommended restaurant where we took a sidewalk seat and
ordered a sandwich and a cool Inca cola. While we relaxed, shoeshine boys came
along and we let them remove the trail dust and dirt. They were a couple of
15-year-olds who seemed small for their stated age. The cost of the excellent shine was one sol.
We tipped the fellows well and they were happy campers.
While
keeping an eagle eye on our belongings (as instructed to do) we visited and
people watched while waiting for time to board the train. We were all glad we’d
chosen the hike over the train ride and a stay in this village.
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