A
few of us hired a van to take us to Monte Alban, meaning white mountain.
After paying our 38 peso admission fee we hired a local docent to escort us
around and tell us all about the ruins.
The spectacular mountain city (6500’) of Monte Alban, about ten miles out of
town, is Mexico’s largest and possibly most significant archaeological site. In
an unbelievable feat of engineering the hilltop was leveled to build the
ceremonial center of the Zapotec Empire. During its 1200 year reign, it was
capital of the Zapotecs from 500 BC--750 AD. The mingled smell of dust and
herbs from the shrubbery greet the visitor as the wind blows off the bare
hills.
Panoramic views of green mountains are seen from the clusters of temples
on the North Platform. The main plaza situated on a north-south axis is 1000
feet long and 2/3 as wide. Building J (OAD) at the foot of the south plaza was
possibly an astronomical observatory that is estimated to be 2000 years old.
The guide told us, “The Zapotec peoples
were farmers who cultivated corn, beans, squash, chili and fruit on hillsides
of the adjacent valleys. Occasionally they would dine on fresh meat from deer
or other small game. Only a small area has been excavated, and 176 tombs have
been discovered.
“Archaeologists have divided the site
into five periods when walls, plazas and walkways were added. Period I is from
500 BC to 0 AD. An advanced culture with gods, temples, a priesthood have been
discovered. Writing as well as numbers and a calendar existed. The home designs
indicate a multi-layered society. The danzantes
(dancers) buildings were decorated with unique bas-relief.”
The main plaza is huge and a clap of
the hands proved the echo and acoustics to be fantastic. The Zapotecs had no
stringed instruments, only wind
instruments and drums.
Nubby barked cotton trees were shedding
small amounts of white fluff. Beautiful Indian laurel trees on site were 1000
years old. I asked about a rather scrubby tree with white flowers, and was told
they were huaje trees.
Walking he continued, “Period II covers
from 0-300 AD. A heavy Chiapas
and Guatemalan influence appeared. They built strange ship-shaped buildings. A
jade bat god has been attributed to this era. Period III covers the years
between 300-800. This is the time when the area reached its apex with a
probable population of 40,000 covering a three square-mile area spread over the
hilltops. The hilltop you see today was built during this period. The buildings
had handsome sloping staircases, corniced walls, gods, monumental carvings, and
hieroglyph-inscribed stelae depicting kings and heroic scenes of battles. Ball
courts/ fields with 20-foot
elevated walkways around them are evident. A
decline started in 800 and by 1000 AD the site was nearly abandoned. Why? It is
speculated that drought, disease, or revolt may have been the reason, or the lack
of water, wood, salt and a food supply also may have been factors.”
 |
| Fantastic stone work |
During Periods IV and V Mixtecs from
the north invaded the valley of Oaxaca and became rulers of many small
city-states. A mixture of Mixtec and Zapotec art and architecture appeared, and
Monte Alban became a refuge and burial ground.
There are thousands of archeological
sites in Mexico. There are still 17 ethnic groups in Oaxaca. When the Spanish arrived, many
ancient temples were destroyed and churches built on top of the old
foundations. In Monte Alban
there were no rooms or chambers in the temples. The Zapotecs chose the top of
the mountain to be closest to God. They believed in a he and she god. The original
rock walls were covered over with stucco hiding motifs in the colors of nature.
The site, plundered for years, became a protected site in 1910.
People slept on the floor. When they
died the body was wrapped in a cloth and placed in a tomb. Dishes were left
with the body to nourish it on its journey and new sandals made the long
journey easier.
Tumba 7 (7th tomb), a few
hundred feet below the visitor center, is where in 1450 Mixtec nobles removed
the original 8thcentury contents and reused the tomb to bury a
deceased dignitary and two servants. Along with the bodies they left a fabulous
treasure of gold, silver, jade, alabaster and turquoise. These jewels now are
at the Museo de Oaxaca, also known as Santo Domingo Museum
housed in the old convent. We visited the museum on another day.
The visitor center had a small museum, café
with a fantastic view, information counter and a store with a good selection of
books. Monte Alban was a fantastic visit and learning experience!
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