A Charming City
Senate Square was
once a town square with a church and city hall, but its buildings were burned
in 1808 during the Swedish-Russian war. Senate Square surrounded by pale yellow
buildings form a unique and cohesive example of Neo-Classical
architecture. The church was rebuilt
using St. Petersburg as a model. The
statue in the center of the square is of Czar Alexander II. Many university
buildings are in the immediate area. The University accommodates 36,000
students, 60 percent of whom are female.
Diagonally across the square, the small blue stone building, 1757, with
the slanted roof is one of only two pre-Russian-conquest buildings remaining in
Helsinki,
Café
Kapelli built in 1860 has a glass tower on each
end. In the 19th century the
old fashion gazebo-like oasis was a popular hangout for intellectuals and
artists. We had a fantastic lunch here and were able to sit in one of the glass
towers to people-watch while we ate. Our meal was topped of with a scrumptious
cloudberry dessert. I first ran into cloudberries in Newfoundland. They look
like a raspberry and are about the same size, but are yellow-orange in color.
Market Square, Kauppatori,
at the harbor end of the Esplanade, also is known as the Fish Market. It is a
lively place and the heart of the city.
It mostly contains produce with a few souvenir and crafts kiosks
intermingled. The fish stalls are on the outside facing the water. The
fountain, dating to 1908, showcases a mermaid surrounded by water-spewing
dolphins, and is a symbol of the city. The obelisk in the center of the market
is called Czarina Stone. The double headed eagle, a remnant of imperial Russian
rule, is the city’s first public monument and dates to 1835.
Esplanade
Park, stretching west to the main
thoroughfare Mannerheimintie, was established in the 1830s. Running from Market Square to the Swedish Theater the
boulevard has a broad expanse of trees and gardens in the middle. Small shops,
department stores, and cafés abound. In the center of the wide center path of
the esplanade was a series of bronze sculptures called Las Meninas.
The
sculptures looked like Spanish women dressed for a ball. Graduated in size, they
held out their skirts like they were ready to enter a room or climb a flight of
stairs. I understood they were part of a rotating exhibit, but I don’t know how
long they were in the park.
The
four people on the façade of Train
Station, 1916, represent peasant farmers with their lanterns entering the
capital. The building is an easily recognized landmark. The granite monument
represents a transition between National Romanticism and the new Functional
style. Besides domestic train travel there are three daily trips to Russia.
Helsinki’s blue and white City Hall, was designed in 1833 as a hotel. The building, located
on the southern side of Senate Square, dates back to the 1700s. Until the early
1900s the City Hall Quarter was the center of commerce and social life in Helsinki. This building
has housed City Hall since 1930. The mayor’s office is above the large balcony
overlooking the harbor.
See posts: Rock Church
4-4-12 Sebelius monument 9-16-12
Churches 7-27-11 Finnish Trivia 5-11-11
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