To
stay awake on arrival day in Ennis we made our way to the River Fergus and
walked along the river. A river walk is called a bar in this part of the world.
The ruins from the 13th century Franciscan Friary are visible
from most all parts of the city where the main attractions are the rich
carvings and decorated tombs. The 17th century house next door is
now the Cruise Restaurant. Its low beam ceiling is well preserved. We intended to
eat there one day, but with so many other places to eat we never made it.
We spent the afternoon wandering around
Ennis, a vibrant medieval town that is the capital of County Clare. The quaint
shops line winding cobblestone walkways so typical of medieval towns. The
market town is a major crossroads and stop between the west and southwest. In
the 13th century the O’Brien’s, Kings of Thomonds, were the feudal
landlords. We found the inner city somewhat littered, but there were lots of
lovely flower boxes, hanging baskets and gardens. The outskirts of the city
were clean and tidy. In 2003, 04, and 05 Ennis won the Tidy City
award.
The pedestrian center has been
attractively renovated. In 1990 in observance of the city’s 750th
anniversary many modern sculptures were placed around town. The sculptures were
generally large, but I’m not a modern art fan. The town has always fostered
traditional arts especially fiddle playing and step dancing. Singing pubs
abound and the city is known for its music festivals.
A tall limestone statue of Daniel
O’Connell (1775-1847), who was instrumental in bringing about Catholic
Emancipation, stands in the town center. The statue is okay but stands on a
very tall ugly pedestal. A statue of the politician De Valera also has a
prominent place in town.
Glengariff
means rugged glen. Wooded and
sheltered picturesque Glengariff, tucked between the Caha Mountains
and Bantry Bay, reveals a variety of landscapes.
The Gulf Stream moderates the weather so
sub-tropical plants thrive. Rhododendrons line the shore paths that reveal
beautiful views of inlets and lounging seals.
Being on the tourist agenda, craft shops abound as well as boatmen
soliciting business. Its mild climate has turned this city into a winter resort
town. In Glengarriff we boarded the Harbour
Queen for a ten minute ride to Garnish Island.
Harbor seals were sunning and resting all over the rocks in the harbor.
The Burren, from a Gaelic word meaning stony
place, is a unique habitat for a rich variety of flora and fauna in spite
of its barrenness. Three-quarters of the country’s native plants are found
here. This giant rock garden, occupies 1% of Irelands’ land mass. The 116 square miles of limestone formations
stretch endlessly in all directions resembling a basalt moonscape. As far as
the eye can see are vast irregular slabs of limestone, known as karst, with
deep cracks between. Rivers have all disappeared underground. In spring this
area looks like a well-planted rock garden including 23 species of orchids.
Spring also sees the appearance of seasonal lakes on the plateau surfaces. The
area supports a large variety of small wildlife including frogs and lizards as
well as birds.
Beside the Burren are the ruins of the
12th century Cathedral of St. Fachan, which has been restored to a
parish church. There is a large concentration of burial sites in the area
including Poulnabrone Dolman---some 6000 years old.
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