In Los Chiles, Costa Rica we
boarded a boat for a ride down the Rio Frio. The river borders the 24,600-acre
Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge, which sits in the migratory flyway of hundreds of
thousands of birds. It is a birder’s delight.
Moving
down the river was a slow process as the tree lined banks were full of birds
and monkeys. We saw white face and Howler Monkeys, including a couple of Howler
babies.
White
face monkeys will eat anything, but Howlers are vegetarians and eat early in
the day because they need sunlight to digest their food. Their scrotum
is white and that is how they thermo-regulate their bodies.
The boat driver got us close to a tree where we could see tiny tiny
bats spread out on the tree trunk. They looked like part of the bark. They
weren’t more than 2-3 inches long and they were lined up vertically 6-7 in a
row. We saw several kinds of lizards. The river eventually opens up
into a shallow lagoon.
The
beautiful macaws live high in the forest canopy so we did not see any that day,
but we saw numerous other birds and the guide and driver knew them all. I heard
toucans in the jungles in Panama and Belize, but could not see them as both
times they were high in the canopy. However, it was in another preserve in
Costa Rica that I was most excited to finally see toucans.
I
had read and our guide confirmed that Costa Rica is one of the most
ecologically aware countries in the world. In fact one quarter (26%) of its
land has been set aside as national park or preserve; 13% land is National
Parkland, and an additional 13% of the land is private reserve abiding by
government agreements. These nature and biological preserves protect a vast
array of animals and their habitats, and insures the survival of over 850
species of birds, 205 species of mammals, 376 kinds of reptiles and amphibians,
and more than 9000 species of flowering plants, including 1200 varieties of
orchids.
Until
1970 there was hardly a protected area in the country. The country’s
conservation efforts are even more remarkable considering that it is not a
wealthy country, having limited resources. During the first years of the
country’s park systems, conservationists raced against rampant deforestation to
protect as much of the nation’s wild lands as possible. Infrastructure is still
lacking, and many of the areas can only be reached on foot, or horseback.
Out
hotel in Chachagua was located in the depths of a rain forest in a private
preserve. We crossed a waterfall and
walked through lush vegetation to our single cabin. Looking out our windows we
could see nothing but lushness. The cabin was cozy, and each night I was lulled
asleep by the sounds of the waterfall.
The
lodge had a resident green macaw that was a little on the cantankerous side.
Its mate died a couple of years before, and since they mate for life, more than
likely she’d be alone for the rest of her life. She flew about at will, but
often perched on the dining room rail, always watchful for fallen crumbs.
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