A Wonderful Visit to a Charming City
Enkhuizen is a
striking, magnificently preserved town established between 1000 and 1200, and
became a city in 1355. Prospering from its herring fishing industry
and trade from the Dutch East India Company, Enkhuizen reached its peak in the
17th century when it boasted the largest herring fleet in Holland.
The
thriving port sat on the edge of the Zuider Zee, an inlet of the North Sea
until it was enclosed in 1932. Now, Enkhuizen sits on the Ijsselmeer, the large inland lake created by the damming of the sea
outlet. The 20-mile long dam has two highway lanes on top.
With
a population of 16,000, this historic city retains its old charms, and its
harbors attract thousands of pleasure boats. The delightful city walking tour
concluded at St. Pancras Church, where we had a lesson on its famous murals
followed by a brief organ concert that ended with the Star Spangled Banner. We
all joined in the singing---nice!
This Church dates back to
the 15th century, with the 75 meter high tower being built in 1450. Originally,
it wasn't that high, but in 1526 the octagonal section and onion dome were
added. It also has a 45 bell carillon. There are paintings on the wooden
ceiling dating back to 1484. Originally covered in whitewash the paintings were
revealed only when the roof needed repair in 1900 and the wash was
removed. The church was restored after
killing an infestation of beetle termites with temperatures of 130 degrees.
It took a hundred years to
build this church. It is rectangular facing east with the entrance on the west
side. The choir is in the east end and the pews line the long way of the
rectangle. The wooden cross came from Norway. Originally the church was
Catholic, but during the religious wars in 1572 the priest became a minister
and the church became Protestant---practically overnight.
The
Drommedaris is an old defense tower located at the entrance to the
harbor. Many warehouses originally used by both the East and West India
Companies remain.
A cherry tree by the city
hall was in full bloom. It was a drizzly day but not enough to bother with an
umbrella.
In the
afternoon we went a bit out of town for tea with a delightful local family. The
home was large by European standards, it was also new, about 15 years old, and
this family had lived here a little over a year. Dad, a school principal of
two small schools with a total of 300+ students, came home to visit with us.
Mom, a psychotherapist, worked from home, seeing most of her clients in the
evenings. The older daughter was attending college in Amsterdam where she
commutes by train, about an hour each way. The teenage boy has one more year of
high school. Both teenagers were friendly, talkative and fun.
The furnishings were a bit modern
and stark for my taste, but had clean cut lines. The dining room was off the
living room and the kitchen was behind the garage, next to the dining room.
Homes come with no appliances or closets. The dining room was very light with
very large windows and glass door on two sides that looked out onto a garden
area that housed a small shed to store
bikes. A narrow spiral staircase led upstairs where there were three rooms and
a small sleeping alcove which the son occupied.
The son brought his girlfriend after school. She was a
delightful young lady, animated, friendly and talkative. It was interesting to
converse with both the parents and the young people, few of whom are as
friendly and talkative to strangers. They all spoke good English.
We enjoyed coffee or tea and stooperwafles. We did it the proper way
by putting the stooperwafles on top of the steaming coffee cups. Yum! It was a
charming visit—one for the books.
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