The Catherine Palace and Peter and Paul Fortress
The elegant Catherine Palace, built in 1718 for
Peter the Great’s wife, is a monument to Russian art and culture. The summer
palace of the czars is located just outside the city. Construction began in
1744 and after years of embellishment and reconstruction it reached its current
Baroque grandeur of elegant blue, white and gold perfection.
The
Catherine Palace facade is the longest in all of Europe, stretching more than
1,000 feet in a fantastic profusion of columns, windows, pilasters and statues.
Originally the ornaments of the palace were gilded, which must have been a
brilliant contrast against sapphire blue walls. Very expensive to maintain and
difficult to keep looking fresh and clean, later Catherine II ordered the gilt
palace ornaments to be painted over in a bronze color.
There
are two fronts to the palace; one faces the garden and the other is an enormous
parade ground enclosed in a one-story arc of baroque buildings and gilded
railings. After Peter and Catherine’s deaths, the palace passed to their
lively, blue-eyed daughter, Elizabeth, who lived in the palace during the
reigns of her half-brother Peter II and her cousin, Anna. Elizabeth had the
palace enlarged and later the famous Italian Architect Rastrelli took on the
task of the famous palace facades that are seen today.
Catherine II made a Neo-Classical
style addition, which she preferred over the flamboyant Baroque style, to the
far wing of the palace.
The
weather was very damp and dreary while I was in St. Petersburg and I managed to
pick up a nasty cold. Unfortunately I felt pretty awful the day we made this
visit so my notes are shorter than usual.
The Peter and Paul Fortress, built in 1703, is situated on a small island in the Neva River
delta. The historical treasure has been
a prison, fortress and now is the burial site of Russian czars. Originally
built to defend against the Swedes, Peter the Great laid the first stone.
The
city developed on both sides of the fortress but eventually the site across the
river is the one that was sustained. From the Admiralty on the south embankment
the main streets radiate like wheel spokes. Canals and other streets cross the
spokes and run parallel to the main channel of the Neva.
Across the Neva River, the distinctive gold spire shines over
what was a major shipbuilding and naval center. The city’s major streets fan
out from this point. The 12-meter thick walls support 300 pieces of artillery.
The fortress even had a functioning mint at one time. The courtyard is cobbled.
Nearby stands the Dutch-style Peter
and Paul Cathedral, a shrine to the Romanoff dynasty. Its belfry supports a
stunning needle-like golden spire, which can be seen from most any spot in the
city. The golden angel holding a cross is the city symbol. The bells ring four
times a day. The baroque interior with its carved iconostasis is breath taking.
It took 40 serfs seven years to carve the linden wood under the gold leaf.
Inside are the Romanoff monarch sarcophagi, and the one with a bust on top
identifies Peter the Great.
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