Quaint Canadian City
Quebec
City, built in 1608 on the St. Lawrence River,
is the only fortified city, north of Mexico, left in North America.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage City in 1985, Canada’s oldest city is known
and loved for its European charms. Centuries-old homes line narrow, cobblestone
streets of the exuberant, romantic city.
Ninety-five
percent of the nearly 650,000 population in the provincial capitol speak
French. The city is one of the safest places in North America. It enjoys a
healthy environment with clean air and plenty of green space. Flowing from the
Great Lakes to the sea, the mighty St. Lawrence is a gateway to a continent. It
is also the heart-line of a province, the soul of a people and the jewel of
Quebec City.
The
well-preserved Vieux Quebec, Old
Quebec, is small and dense, covering only four square miles. It is well steeped in four centuries of history and
French tradition. The ramparts that once protected the 17th and 18th
century city remain in place and stretch nearly three mile. They are 20-feet
high and 49-feet thick.
The park in front of the Frontenac
Hotel is the Place d’ Armes. For centuries the square atop the
cliff was used for parades and military events. Upper Town’s most central
location is bordered by government buildings, including the Renaissance-style Old Courthouse, 1887. The Funicular entrance/exit that connects Upper and Lower
Towns is located here.
The
Gothic fountain, 1650, at the center pays tribute to the arrival in 1615 of
Franciscan monks of the Recollet order. The monk holds an ear of corn in one
hand and a cross in the other.
Across the street is a larger-than-life stature of Champlain,
1567-1635, who eventually became Governor of New France.
Quebec
City is much smaller than Montreal, so we were able to see several things in a
short period of time. Holy Trinity
Anglican Church, a stone church dating back to 1804 was one of the first
Anglican cathedrals to be built outside the British Isles. It has a simple
dignified façade modeled after London’s Saint-Martin-in-the-Fields.
The land was given in 1681 to French Franciscan monks by the king of France.
When Quebec came under British rule the monks made the church available for
Anglicans services. The church houses
precious objects donated by King George III. The wood for the oak benches was
imported from the Royal Forest at Windsor. The impressive organ has 3,058
pipes. The eight bells in the bell tower
date to 1804.
The
oldest parish in North America is Notre Dame Basilica, 1647, also known as
Our Lady of Quebec Basilica. In 1759
cannons from Levis, across the river, damaged the church during the siege of
Quebec. In 1922 fire destroyed the second church, but each time it was rebuilt
on its original foundation. The façade is classical-style. The large and famous
crypt holding 900 bodies, including 20 bishops and four governors, was the
city’s first cemetery. Champlain is believed to be buried near the Basilica.
The church has only one tower as the ground was not solid enough to support a tower
on the left side. The ornate interior includes a ceiling of clouds decorated
with gold leaf and richly colored stain glass. The oldest piece in the
Cathedral is a sanctuary lamp, a gift from Louis XIV.
Masion Maillou,
the colony’s former treasury building was built between 1736- 1753. Its sharply
slanted roof, dormer windows, concrete chimneys, shutters with iron hinges, and
limestone walls typifies the architecture of New France. Now housing the
chamber of commerce, the green roof and turquoise shutters are hard to miss.
The Terrasse Dufferin boardwalk offers a wonderful respite from
sight-seeing and should not be missed. From here the rooftops of Lower Town can
be seen directly below. Constructed in 1878, this wide walkway has an intricate
wrought-iron rail. The walkway offers a panoramic view of the St. Lawrence
River and the town of Levis on the opposite shore. It extends from Place d’ Armes to the Citadel
Late one afternoon as we were
heading back to our hotel we stopped to ask a couple standing on a street
corner, who looked a bit lost, if we could help them find something. We got to
chatting and the point of this tale is the fellow asked where we were going to
eat that evening. We didn’t know. He told us, “If you follow this street down
the hill, there is a restaurant called Portofino
Bistro. They have excellent food. You’ll really enjoy it.”
We did walk down the hill and when
we saw the restaurant we decided to give it a try. Portofino Bistro is located
in a house dating back to 1760. We enjoyed the warm friendly atmosphere and the
friendly people. But most of all we enjoyed the superb lasagna. It was, indeed,
a good choice!---thanks to a chance Canadian encounter!
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