A Sunken Church
One noontime while cruising Russian waterways the loud speaker alerted us to grab out cameras and get on deck. It was a surprise to suddenly see a lovely church tower standing in the middle of the river! What a photo op!
As we passed over what once was Kalyazin’s market square, we learned that, “The city of Kalyazin was flooded when the Uglich hydroelectric plant was built in the 1940s. The city originally sprung up around a 15th century monastery. By the 16th century the monastery was one of the richest in Russia. The flooded belfry was part of St. Nicholas Cathedral, built in 1800. At 210 feet high, it was considered one of the finest structures along the Volga.
“Ivan the Terrible visited and donated rare manuscripts to the monastery and in the 20th century Stalin dynamited the monastery to ruins.”
The present town of Kalyazin, with a population of about 12,000, lies around the mouth of the Zhabnya River.
By late afternoon we docked in the charming city of Uglich. More about the city another time but first about an outstanding evening we had visiting a Russian family.
An old van traveled over rather rough roads taking four of us to a housing development of Stalin-era concrete apartment buildings. Ludmilla, our hostess, rode with us. A schoolteacher, she spoke some English and was delighted to be hosting a dinner for us. We walked up two flights of stairs to her small three-room apartment. Her daughters Natasha and Nadia (25 and 27) plus her 79 year old mom, Maria, were waiting for us.
This family made us feel at home. Conversation flowed all evening as the girls spoke good English. Both the mom and grandmother were widowed. It was interesting to hear about their life. I can’t remember what we ate for dinner, but I do remember it was all good. Grandma had done a great job making the outstanding vodka, and one of the daughters had made the delicious apricot sweet buns for dessert.
It was a delightful evening with very gracious people. As we left to return to the boat the girls gave each of us a bookmark they had made using dried flowers. What a lovely gesture and wonderful end to a memorable evening!
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