DUBROVNIK

DUBROVNIK, A Historic City

            Dubrovnik may be the best known area of Croatia for Americans, but the country offers much more than the ancient city.  Croatians call their country Hrvatska. The C-shaped country with a long tail has 372 miles of coastline, as the crow flies, but 1100 miles including coves and inlets.  Forested mountains, covering 40% of the country, often seem to emerge out of the clear turquoise water of the Adriatic. In my 1000 miles of travel throughout the country it seemed mountains could be seen everywhere.

       
Nude beaches are no big deal, and it is said that on one of the many  islands a hotel receptionist greets guests wearing only a bow tie. However, I did not confirm this. Beaches tend to be pebbly and rocky, not sandy, and I understand Croats prefer them that way. I guess it's what one is accustomed to. 

           

Dubrovnik and Zadar, suffered damage to 60% of their cities, but it appears that the coast escaped much of the ravages of the Homeland War of 1991-95.

          

 Dubrovnik, a sea of red tile roofs, suffered much damage with 55 % of the buildings being hit by mortar shells or bombs. The wall survived undamaged. UNESCO funds allowed speedy repair and restoration of the walled city.  Vehicles are not allowed in the pedestrian friendly city, but on an early morning visit to avoid crowds and heat, I did spot a small electric Coca Cola truck restocking cafés and restaurants.

           

History lives on in the fortified city. The 7^th century canal, separating Romans and Slavs, was filled in during the 11^th century, and now is the historic wide limestone paved Placa, the heart of the city. The fortification wall was added in the 13^th century. The Republic of Dubrovnik was a major maritime power 500 years ago with the third largest navy in the Mediterranean. The base for a fleet of ships carrying trade to much of Europe and the Middle East was a rival of Venice.

          

  I read that if one climbed the many stairs to the city wall at the Pile Gate the mile long walk around the city was downhill. Not so! When walking, one needs to watch his feet, and stop to enjoy the scenery, sites and the sparkling waters below lapping at the wall’s base.. My traveling friend was a bit concerned about walking because of her recent knee surgery.  Walking on the wall around the city, we walked up or down 406 steps! In spite of a record hot day, it was a fascinating and worthwhile walk with spectacular views of the sparkling Adriatic.