THE BURELL MUSEUM

           One  of Glasgow's Great Museums

The Burrell Museum in Glasgow, Scotland sits just six miles out of the city. I was looking forward to visiting the Burrell as I’d heard a lot about it.

En route our guide told us, “Sir William Burrell made millions as a merchant and shipping agent. After his retirement in 1928 he started buying art and artifacts. He was particularly interested in porcelains. He was the first person to bid at an auction by telephone.

“In the 1940s he summoned the city to send someone to go look at his collection. The 17-year-old who was sent was stunned by the quantity and quality of what he was shown. The next day someone more qualified was sent to peruse the collection. Burrell was willing to give the whole collection, of over 9000 pieces, to the city with the condition that it remain in the city, be placed in a country setting, where it would be out of the inner city pollution, and be free to the public.”

The many boxes were stored for years unopened. Then in 1967 a fellow by the name of MacDonald left his large wooded estate, Pollack, to the city. The farmland of the estate was sold saving 65 acres for the museum. And of course after the clean air act of 1967 pollution has ceased to be a problem. A large glass building dominates the museum which the Queen opened in 1984 saying, “No city ever received a greater gift from one of her children.”

         Only the Frick collection in New York exceeds the Burrell collection in size. Burrell owned the Hutton castle and died in 1958 so he did not see his collection displayed. It is so large that only 20% of it is shown at any one time. Parts of the mixed collection including art, porcelain, tapestries, and wood dates back centuries. One could visit numerous times and still not see all of the spectacular collection. We spent so much time enjoying  the museum that we cut our lunch time very short, and  I had to add ice to my lentil soup to cool it enough to gulp it down

            The forest seen through the back glass wall is a wonderful backdrop for this museum. What a wonderful collection! The huge hanging tapestries were unbelievable and from the second story we had an excellent view of them. It probably took some one a whole lifetime to make just one.

Driving out of the museum grounds, our driver stopped the van so the guide could explain the rather strange but familiar animal grazing nearby.  The Highland cow, which is referred to as the Heeland coo, looks like a cow, has short horns, and a long shaggy amber brown coat. We were to see many of them later in our travels.

RUSSIAN TEA

An Important  but Tedious Process

            I was familiar on how the English brew their tea, but it was nothing like the time consuming and involved brewing of Russian tea, to say nothing of the equipment needed. However, the Russians are as taken with their tea as are the English. In fact tea could be the national drink of Russia. A good tea warms the mind, body, and soul.

            Universal rules for making real tea dictate forgetting about tea bags and never cooking the tea leaves. Large tea plantations are located in an area of the Caucasus range on the shore of the Black Sea in Georgia, but the origin of tea is of little importance. Expensive tea can be mixed with cheap tea and actually is encouraged.

Making Russian tea is a two step process. First one makes the zavarka, then waters it down by adding boiling water known as kipyatok. Water is first boiled in a samovar, a large tank whose literal translation would be ‘autobrewer’.  The samovar is not only an ordinary household item but a hallmark of the Russian way of life and hospitality. Tula, a city south of Moscow, has been the major samovar manufacturer since the 18^th century. Originally charcoal burning, it was not until the 1950s and 60s that an electric version came into being and popular use.

The teapot, called a chainik, should be warm before starting the process. Only a ceramic or glass chainik is acceptable for making tea. If hot water has been used to warm the pot it should be emptied before adding the tea leaves. Boiling water is poured over the tea leaves, the lid replaced on the pot, and the pot covered with a towel to keep it warm.

When all the leaves have sunk to the bottom, the zavarka is ready. It is very strong, and is dangerous to drink directly from the pot. The strong narcotic effect can cause a rapid heartbeat, hallucinations, and restlessness. Generally the zavarka is diluted 10:1 with boiling water in a cup or mug. A chestnut color is perfect. The cup or mug is nearly always placed on a saucer before pouring the zavarka or kipyatok. The softer the water, the better the tea.

Tea is brewed with black tea and served after a meal or at tea time; 5:00 PM  is a popular time of day for tea. Generally one teaspoon of tea per person plus one for the pot is used to brew the tea. Thinly sliced lemon slices, not wedges of lemon, are served with tea. Arguments on the pros and cons of adding anything to the tea can go on forever. However, it is common to add sugar, but never more than three teaspoons. Jam or honey is often added to tea instead of sugar. Milk and cream are not used in tea. If tea is served at tea time rather than after a meal it is accompanied by various sweets and like the English high tea sort of becomes a meal.

Making Russian tea is a time consuming process, but the Russians have an old proverb that says: if you rush, you make people laugh. Today tea is served in porcelain cups vs the old traditional glass  held in a decorative metal holder with a handle.

Our ship always had hot coffee and had become modern with a variety of tea bags and hot water available for those who preferred tea. That was just fine with us Americans.

ANCIENT SHARA BRAE

A Stunning Neolithic Village

Skara Brae is a 5000-year-old Neolithic village. I quote from the brochure: In the winter of 1850 a wild storm stripped the grass from the high dune known as Skara Brae in the Bay of Skaill on Mainland, Orkney. An immense midden or refuse heap was uncovered. So too were the ruins of ancient dwellings. What came to light in that storm proved to be the best preserved Neolithic village in northern Europe. And it remains that today.

The village of Skara Brae was inhabited before the Egyptian pyramids were built, and flourished many centuries before construction began on Stonehenge. It is some 5000 years old.

But it is not its age alone that makes it so remarkable and so important. It is the degree to which it has been preserved.

The structures of this semi-subterranean village survive in impressive condition. And so, amazingly, does the furniture in the village houses. Nowhere else in northern Europe are we able to see such rich evidence of how our remote ancestors actually lived.

The profound importance of this remarkable site was given official recognition in 1999 when it was inscribed upon the World Heritage list as part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site.

The storm’s uncovering revealed the outline of a series of stone buildings that intrigued the local laird, William Watt of Skaill who began the excavation of the site. Eight dwellings are linked by low alley-ways. The walls of the huts were still standing and the alley-ways were roofed with their original stone slabs. Each house shares the same design---a large square room with a central fireplace, a bed on either side and a shelved dresser on the wall opposite the doorway.

We were able to look down into the structures and see the furniture, all of stone. A docent was at a site that exposed an underground drainage system for us to see! It is estimated 500-600 people lived in this village. No weapons were found, so it is assumed they were a peaceful people, but it is a complete mystery as to why they disappeared.

I got goose bumps to realize where we were and how many years ago life was here. What a fantastic site, and I swear I wouldn’t believe it if I hadn’t seen it with my own eyes.

After viewing the site we continued on a fairly long walk to a 1620s farmhouse on the property. We toured the inside noting the beautiful 1624 wooden panel that came from St. Magnus Cathedral. Otherwise there was nothing of exceptional interest in the house.

This was a remarkable visit to this memorial site!

FUN ENGLISH FACTS

                              Some English Trivia

            Stadle stones, not  saddle, are mushroom shaped stones placed under a barn. They provide a sort of air circulation/ conditioning for the barn and  also keeps out water as well as any varmints that might want to get into the barn. Although the barn sits on them they are not the total support for the barn.

           

            In the 1700s windows were open wooden framed spaces in the walls that tended to be small and few in number. Being open left the home exposed in bad weather. When it rained a cloth covered the wooden frame over the window opening. The cloth was smeared with cooking fat, and perhaps this was the original storm window.

            The canal locks on the River Avon are only seven feet wide. All of the locks are manual, no mechanized ones. All  locks are operated by the same winch which is given to you when you rent the boat. It is rather strenuous work to open and close the locks.

   We boarded a manual winch ferry to cross the river. The ferry was different than any I’ve ever seen. A fellow stood and turned a wheel, which moved a chain, and somehow that propelled us the short distance across the river.

Not all churches had sanctuary knockers, but if they did and you reached it, you were automatically granted 37 days of sanctuary. After that you were on your own

          The Saxons were farmers, who developed fleece, laying the groundwork for the prosperity of medieval merchants, who in turn built the churches and alms houses, many of which are still occupied even though centuries old!

          A ceiling boss is an ornament, often of carved wood, but can be plaster, that overlays the joints of wood or plaster beams on decorative ceilings. They are most unique.

            Slaughter, in England refers to nothing bloody, but is a Saxon word meaning place of many pools.

      Ploughman’s lunch: traditionally the ploughman (plow) took his lunch to the field with him in the morning. It consisted of cheese and hard bread or roll. I’m not sure what the drink of the day was, probably ale. Ploughman sandwiches are still popular in many areas of England.

No place is Cornwall, England is more than 20 miles from the coast and the ocean.

Cornwall, England is the land of legendary shipwrecks, with over 3000 recorded along the rugged coastline.

MOSQUE VISIT AND ARAB HOME

                        A Most Interesting Visit

My one and only visit to a mosque took place in Bosnia, and it was most interesting. The 1557 mosque had been repaired after much war damage and reopened in 2004. Now a national monument, the mosque is used only one day a week, but is open to tourists every day. Water damage ruined most of the 8000 carpets the mosque owned.  Before entering, we were told, “It is Muslim tradition that  if one becomes wealthy that he give back to the community. One way to do that was to build a mosque. At one time Mostar had 36 Mosques. One enters a Mosque with the right foot.”

             The floor was covered with carpets of various sizes and designs and it was explained that Muslims are buried within 24 hours. Caskets are not locked because in the old days when it was sometimes difficult to determine that someone was really dead, it was felt that if one woke up he could open the unlocked coffin. One is buried with the right hand pointing to Mecca.  Women do not attend funerals. There are two theories, one is that women cry too much, and the other is that women are associated with life and it is not desirable to mix life with death. After a funeral it is tradition for the family to donate a carpet to the mosque.

            Women and children remain one meter behind the man in the mosque. It has to do with praying and women wearing shirts. Obituary notices are posted on a bulletin board. Since burials take place in 24 hours, a notice in the paper would be too late.

            Mosques often  have a library and cemetery. There are no icons or pictures on the walls of a mosque. Muslims wash their hands five times a day—to wash away their sins and to go to Allah clean. They can pray on the previous wash IF one has not used swear words, slept, gone to the bathroom, looked at women or played. Pointing out the saying above the mosque door our guide said, “Each letter in the saying over the door has a numerical value, ie A=1 Z=26. Translation to numerical value tells the date of the mosque. Sayings can vary.”  

            She continued, “Arabic is the official language of Islam. Friday is a holy day and on that day services are done in the mother tongue of the location. Numbers are very important in Islam. A rosary has 33 beads because Mary is mentioned in the Koran 33 times. Saying the rosary three times accounts for the 99 names for Allah. (kind, forgiving, loving etc.)” Green is the color of Islam and is never used as a major color in a carpet; it is used only for accent. The traditional color is red.

            In the courtyard of a 1635 home of a well-to-do-family our guide explained, “If a man comes to visit he would announce his arrival from here. If his business involved the man of the house it would be discussed here also, because a woman uncovers in the home. Although these houses might be fairly close together, there is privacy behind these high walls.”

             The fountain in the courtyard was filled with four pots, representing the four seasons. There are also three globes around the fountain representing life, death and Mecca. Circles of pebbles in five sections represent the number of times a Muslim prays. In the courtyard we all removed our shoes. Prayer takes place on the floor and shoes are always left at the door to avoid tracking dirt into the house and onto the carpet-covered floors.

            Sleeping is done downstairs, but upstairs the main room is for conversation. The chests around the room were hope chests of the girls in the family. The more ornate the chest, the wealthier the family. A small room off this main room is for the baby. Mom stays with the baby for 40 days, as she is considered to be vulnerable during that time. Food is brought to her and her husband does not visit.

            A smaller bright room in the back of the house I compared to a sunroom. It is the room where women retreat to visit. Benches flanked two sides of the room. With everyone sitting at the same level no one is more important than another. Turkish coffee would be served here. Our guide told us, “Turkish coffee is served strong and very hot. If one is served cold coffee the message is you are not welcome here. However, the woman does not get up and leave. She simply never returns. No one but the hostess and the woman  involved is aware and face has been saved without any harsh words. Likewise when the intended groom’s mother visits, if the bride’s mother does not approve of the match, the guest will be served her second cup of coffee cold. This equals this marriage is not going to happen! And that is better than saying ‘I don’t like your son, your son is ugly or has pimples or whatever.’”

            That is pretty gracious! 

            Our guide showed us some clothes worn by the older generation. The women’s pants were huge but when worn looked like a skirt. However, when bending down to pray the elastic at the ankles kept the body covered. In ceremonial dress a married woman removes the tassel on her red fez hat. A single gal leaves the tassel.

            Other cultures are interesting and it is fun to learn about them. This was a fascinating and interesting visit.