Friday, October 15, 2010

SOME IMPRESSIONS OF CHINA

Many Surprises

On the long airplane flight home from China I had plenty of time to contemplate about the trip and made a list of some of those things I found interesting or a surprise. There is no such thing as a small city in China, small might mean two million people. Even villages would be like a small US city.

The hawkers at all tourist sites in mainland China were annoying as they were in your face and just would not accept no. We were an oddity once we got outside Beijing. But even in Beijing one of our gals with long natural blond hair was asked numerous times to have her picture taken. It seems visiting Chinese from rural areas just were not used to seeing Caucasians.

I marvel over the fact that I managed to successfully use chopsticks eating all my meals with them, never needing to ask for a fork. Food was wonderful everywhere. Bottled water was easily available.

I also was amazed at the lack of western bathrooms. (I suspect there are a lot more now after the Olympics)

We saw no pregnant women in the big cities, but did see an occasional one in the rural areas. We did not see long hair on men. Children were almost always with grandparents. Split pants on toddles were pretty cute.

English was spoken a lot less than the literature indicated. However, it was not a problem.

Traffic was terrible everywhere. Cars went very fast and just dared a pedestrian to get in their way. In Hong Kong they did stop immediately when the light changed. Cars were small. Pickup trucks were very rare. Except in Chongqing bicycles were numerous angling for space on the road with all the automobiles. Many trishaws or tricycles were seen. In the country very primitive means of transportation and farming exist.

Tipping was expected everywhere. There was no such thing as a set price for anything---unless one was in an upscale department store, and then I’m not sure the price wasn’t negotiable even there. Bargaining is a way of life.

Airports were new, clean and nice. Cell phones were everywhere. Skyscrapers are creating new skylines. Buildings were going up everywhere. A huge grocery store in Beijing was a complete surprise with its escalators and three floors. Most often we were served warm wet towels in restaurants and in some places experienced automatic sensored hand-washing machines on entering.

Pet animals were seldom seen. Apparently it is expensive to license a dog. In rural areas we saw occasional dogs and cats. Birds were common pets in the cities.

Western dress was the norm. We saw virtually no ‘native’ dress, and on occasion that we did see any it was ceremonial.

There are many ways to spell the same word or place. The vastness of ancient sites was difficult to comprehend. They are soooo big. Interesting metal sculptures were all over the country. Billboards in the big cities had English added and some of the translations were really funny.

In a restaurant after a toast is made everyone bangs lightly on the glass turntable with his glass. A tipped teapot lid is a signal that more tea is needed.

In Hong Kong the city is full of reflecting glass skyscrapers. There are very few junks left in Victoria Harbor. The sampans are all motorized and pretty much a tourist attraction any more. Rickshaws in the city have disappeared. The subway system in Hong Kong was spotless; we used it with ease.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

INNOVATIVE USE OF A PLASTIC BAG

FANTA IN A BAG

While were travelling on Costa Rica’s Independence Day we stopped in some small town to watch the local parade.

“I can’t believe how little some of the children are. They can’t be more than five or six. Look how well they march.” I remarked to my son.

He answered, “They must start music very young in the schools. These little ones are doing remarkably well playing their instruments.”

We stood watching the parade until it was over. Returning to our van one of the gals was thirsty so stopped in the equivalent of a 7-11 or Speedy stop.

She found a bottle of Fanta orange drink. When she paid for it the clerk asked, “Do you want a bag?” He spoke English so there was no misunderstanding him.

She kind of shrugged answering, “Okay.”

The clerk cracked the bottle for her and then proceeded to pour the drink into a plastic bag. He inserted a straw, gathered the bag at the top and handed it over the counter to her. How lucky she was that the bag didn’t leak!

We ran into her walking down the street a few minutes later. She and her husband were still laughing. They stopped long enough to tell us what had happened. Then I told them, “I have had to stay in a store and drink a soda in a couple of places where sodas are still only sold in glass bottles. And I’ve had a bottle emptied in a glass where the bottle never left the hand of the waitress.”

“Like you wanted to steal the bottle and take it home?”

“I guess so. They just never knew I only travel with a 22-inch roll-on and have no room for such nonsense.”

I’ve never had the experience of drinking soda from a bag, but I admit that since this incident, I never see a bottle of Fanta that this story doesn’t flash across my mind.

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

MONTE CARLO, MONACO

 BRING MONEY

The French call it a connish. We would call the narrow winding asphalt roadway with its hairpin curves simply a coastal road. Not doing the driving afforded me the opportunity to enjoy the marvelous views of the sparking Mediterranean below where boats and yachts were anchored in the coves. I’d be willing to bet that the people fortunate enough to live in the homes climbing up the steep hillsides take the spectacular scenery and views for granted as they see and live them every day.

The  Famous Monte Carlo
I always thought of the rock as Gibraltar, but from Nice, France we headed to Monaco, that tiny principality ruled by the Grimaldi family. We joined the crowd in front of the palace to watch the changing of the guard at 11:55 AM. Of course the guards change several times a day, but the band and all the hoopla takes place at noon.

It was a short walk from the palace to the church where Prince Rainier and Princess Grace were married and are buried. This church has a special ‘royal entrance’. However, we entered through the regular doors and joined the short line to walk around to the back of the altar to view the royal grave sites.

Jacques Cousteau’s yellow submarine, near the entrance of the aquarium that he was associated with for many years, is a popular photo stop.

Flowers were gorgeous everywhere and the parks quiet, shady and lovely. It was an interesting visit, but I think I would rather quickly develop a case of rock fever .

Monaco is probably as well known for its famous casino, Monte Carlo, as it is for being the small principality that borders France. It was a short 10 minute ride to Monte Carlo, a very small area of Monaco. To enter Monte Carlo casino one must check cameras, show your passport and pay a 10 euro ($15) admission fee. I questioned our guide about the difference between Monte Carlo and the American casino only a few meters away. His answer, “The games are European.” That didn’t tell me much, but as one who can barely cope with a slot machine, I figured I’d never make it playing foreign games with French instructions. I really was only interested in seeing it.

The American casino is totally Vegas where the lights inside are blinding. We walked in, circled the area and walked out. At the sidewalk café we visited with friends and when I saw that a 12 oz bottle of chilled cola was going to set me back twelve dollars, I decided I really didn’t need it. Two scoops of ice cream with a dab of whip cream and a tiny wafer served in a dish was $22---I didn’t need that either. So, I guess the rule is if you go to Monte Carlo take money!

Saturday, October 2, 2010

FABULOUS PALACE

WURZBURG PALACE

We’d met our local docent, Victoria, at the Residenz, the Prince-Bishop’s palace in the center of the city. Prince-Bishops ruled here for 4-5 centuries, but they lived in the fortress overlooking the city. When the bishops decided they wanted out of the fortress they built this baroque Residenz in 1720-44.

We were told, “This is the last and finest baroque castle in Germany. The castle shows unity and design unusual in such large structures.”

Upon entering, we faced a beautiful grand stairway leading to the upper floor. Standing at the bottom of the stairs, our animated guide told us, “In Maria Teresa's day you would walk upstairs with your back  straight and head  held high while slightly looking down your nose. You grasped your skirt with the right hand while your left hand is bent at the elbow with the little finger in the air. Then you walked up the stairs without looking down.”

Jan and I decided to give it a try. The steps were wide to accommodate a large foot and with only about a five-inch rise, the steps were very easy to navigate. We pretty much led the pack and I‘m sure the stodgy passengers behind us thought we were crazy. We made it all the way up the long, wide staircase without tripping or missing a step, but Jan couldn’t stop giggling---all the way to the top.

The rails of the grand stairway were decorated with statuary and lanterns. The palace is typically ornate baroque, with each room being more cluttered that the previous one.

At the top of the stairs the docent continued, “During WW II 90% of the city was destroyed when in March 1945, in fifteen minutes, 380,000 fire bombs were dropped on Wurzburg. The main part of the palace survived, but the wings were destroyed. The palace has 342 rooms, a church for the Bishop and lovely gardens. The ceiling fresco in this hallway is the largest in the world. Painted in just 13 months it depicts the four continents as they were known at that time. On one side is Europe, Africa on another, and Asia and North America on the other sides.” (She kept referring to North America as the United States.)

The main room is done in rococo, which personally I found very gaudy---baroque gone mad. The ceilings were beautiful and we were told the plaster master used no molds to create any of the design. At the time of our visit some of the ceilings were undergoing repair and renovation. We viewed Flemish tapestries and porcelain corner stoves.

In the bedroom she pointed out vents in the fireplace next to a small door saying, “Vials of perfume could be placed here and then the aroma would be blown into the room when there was a fire. Remember centuries ago people very seldom bathed. Sandalwood fans also served the purpose of disguising body order.” She passed around an old fan and amazingly the sweet scent still lingered.

As she was standing by a very pretty chest she told us, “Before indoor plumbing the bishops had toilet stewards who literally carried around the chamber pot. But as time went on,”---at this point she opened the lid of the cabinet and folded out the front panels to a reveal a commode chair. What a surprise! And the seat was padded at that.

In the mirror room, which had been completely rebuilt, there were 600 panes of glass, all painted in the reverse technique. She said, “It took eight years to restore this room so this room is only 16 years old. It was a real learning process for the artists to learn and perfect the reverse painting. Using the gold was a real challenge for them also.” Just beyond the ropes in this room was a lovely inlaid card table. She added, “The bishops liked to play cards, and with all these mirrors you can be assured they seldom lost a game.” She then demonstrated how cards could be seen from just about every angle. Even the ceiling was mirrored.

As we finished touring the palace we moved on to the chapel which was originally intended only for the bishop and his guests. However, today regular Sunday services, open to the public, are held. Saturdays are popular days for weddings.

Our animated guide made this a fun visit. Since I’ve visited so many colonial homes, castles and palaces, I always look for something new and different. This was a well worth visit, and I saw several things I had never seen before.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

SOME NEW RULES

Another Bike Trip

After being fitted for our bikes, we always had a safety briefing where we were informed of specific rules for the country we were biking in.

Our Danish guide started by saying, “When making a left turn in Denmark be sure to square your corners—don’t cut them. Traffic lights turn green, yellow, red, but they also turn red, yellow, green, and there are no right turns on red.

"At many intersections large white triangles, called shark’s teeth, are painted across the street that must yield, and one must yield to all traffic. At especially dangerous intersections a big red cross is painted to remind you that not everyone obeys the signs.

"Traffic entering a traffic circle must yield to all traffic already in the circle and everyone must yield to bikers who follow a blue path painted on the outer edge of the circle. Traffic circle turn offs are particularly dangerous.”

Denmark is a land of bikers, everyone rides them, kids, adults, nuns, couriers, and in all sorts of dress including business suits and female business wear.

I noticed that biking shorts were seen only on foreigners. Danes didn’t seem to wear them. I couldn’t believe I huffed and puffed up the many hills while Danes passed me leisurely peddling away while carrying on a conversation with a friend. That’s what practice does for you!

There are 160 miles of bike paths in Copenhagen and every day 60,000 bikers enter the capital city. There are also 1700 city bikes and 125 stands for them. For 25 Krona one can use the bike all day and when it is returned to any city stand the 25 Krona is returned.

We had ferried among many islands and biked on the islands of Sealand, Fuen, Areo, Langland, Lolland, and Falster over paved paths, streets, gravel, through forests, through many wheat fields, along the sea, and up and down lots of hills.

Biking Denmark was leisurely and being my second bike trip I was a lot better prepared. We saw and visited a lot of interesting things. It was a fun trip. We’ll talk more about the country another day.

Sunday, September 26, 2010

A FASCINATING PLACE

THE NOBEL PEACE CENTER

The Nobel Peace Center, opened in June 2005, is housed in the old renovated 1872 western railroad station. Overlooking the harbor in Oslo, Norway, it is close to City Hall.

The center has several interesting interactive displays with loads of information. The exhibits use film, digital communication and interactive displays from the state of the art tech world. The wall paper in one room had tiny pictures of the winners in different colors. If this had not been pointed out it would have escaped me, as it looked just like some sort of a print. One can learn about various Nobel winners and their activities as well as the remarkable life of Alfred Nobel.

Norway and Sweden were one country during Nobel’s lifetime., so the peace prize is presented in Oslo, in accordance of Nobel’s will. The other Nobel prizes are presented in Stockholm, Sweden.

Five people sit on the committee. The first prize was awarded in 1901. There are three components to the prize: ten million Swedish kroners, a diploma, and a Nobel medal.

The other Nobel categories include literature, physics, chemistry, and medicine. Over the years fourteen women have won. Fifteen prizes have been awarded to organizations, two to the American Red Cross in both WW I and WW II.

Alfred Nobel made a fortune in dynamite, in a business started by his father in Stockholm. He also developed smokeless gunpowder and held 300 patents. He had 20 factories around the world. He was well read and loved literature. He never married and had no children.

A good visit to this center could easily occupy a half day. It was a fascinating and interesting visit.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

UNIQUE PLACE

POLAR BEAR JAIL

Churchill, Manitoba, Canada is the place most people go to see polar bears.
Bears are not allowed in town and when one, usually a juvenile who hasn’t yet learned the rules, does wander into town, he is captured and sent to polar bear jail to wait for Hudson Bay to freeze over.

Just before the season arrives bear traps are set out on the perimeter of town, and then checked every few hours. When a bear ventures into a trap, he is tranquilized and moved to polar bear jail. When the water freezes, he is transported to the bay and released. Jail can accommodate 27 bears, including several mothers and cubs.
Polar bear jail, located north of town at the old airport, occupies a large Quonset hut left from a WW II SAC base. At that time the base had 450 buildings and 3000 personnel. Most of the buildings have been torn down.

The old fire house, now houses oil spill equipment. The 9250-foot runway is always kept cleared, so in an emergency the largest of jets could land there. For us frequent flyers it’s kind of nice to know that in the middle of nowhere there is a safe emergency landing area.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

AN ORKNEY SURPRISE

Wonderful Italian Church

When in Scotland I wanted to include the Orkney Islands where 20,000 people are outnumbered by 100,000 head of cattle and sheep. There are few trees, and the major industries include fishing, silver jewelry, and North Sea oil. The Orkneys are way north and few people visit the hilly grass-covered barren landscapes. Long rows of plastic covered baled hay standing on large farm plots. Winds are harsh and strong, but the Gulf Stream moderates winter temperatures.

The Orkneys have not always been part of Britain, but were part of Norway until 1460. In that year Norway’s King Christian’s daughter married James II of Scotland and the Orkney Islands were her dowry. Of Orkney’s 70 islands only 20 are inhabited. The island chain covers 376 square miles and has a coastline of 600 miles.

During WW II, 1000 Italian POWs were confined in Orkney. About 500 men at camp 60 resided in Quonset huts. They were pretty loosely guarded, as there was nowhere for them to go. It didn’t take long for those Catholic boys to realize they wanted and needed a chapel. After making a request through proper channels, they were given a Nissen hut (the British equivalent of a Quonset hut) and the support of the camp commander and chaplain.

Under the direction of artistic prisoner, Domenico Chiocchetti the POWs embarked on creating a church. The boys then set about scavenging whatever scrap materials they could find. Scrap metal was used to create the altar and decorative archway. The walls were flat and one actually had to touch them to realize the beige bricks were all painted with a brush. The inside is of Gothic design. A lovely fresco decorates the ceiling. At least one talented artist was among them! The entrance has a lovely simple façade. It is evident that this church resides in a Quonset hut only from a side view. As the war was nearing its end and the prisoners were released, Chiocchetti stayed behind to complete the chapel. This little chapel in a Quonset hut is quite amazing.

Stepping inside we stood stunned at the beautiful sight before us. To think such a lovely chapel was created out of scrap materials is unbelievable. Chiocchetti died in 1999, but what a wonderful symbol of peace he left behind!

More about the Orkneys another day.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

SINGING IN THE RAIN

Our First Swiss Hike

Our first Swiss hike started on an overcast drizzly day. We took a cog railway, built in 1889, up to Mt. Pilatus. The 48% incline makes this cog railway the steepest in the world. It took a year to build the approximately three-mile railroad. It was like going straight up the face of the mountain!

Legend says the mountain got its name Pilatus from a holy man who slayed a dragon living on the mountain.

At the top we wandered out on a walkway to a viewing area, but by then we were completely fogged in with a heavy mist. It was disappointing not to  be able to see the view, but it was still a thrill to be 7000’ above sea level. Even though we couldn’t see, it was so quiet that we could hear the serenade of the tinkling cowbells below in the alpine meadow.

Our hotel had packed us a picnic lunch, but we didn’t want to eat in the mist or in the middle of the foyer even though there were very few people about. Charly, our guide, knew everyone and his brother in the country, so he ventured into the mountain-top restaurant and talked the manager into letting us eat our lunch inside. We were the only customers in the big room. Most of us ordered a cup of soup and a hot drink. The friendly staff was very kind. We were especially careful to pick up all our mess and carry it off, as we were grateful for their hospitality.

After lunch we took the gondola down to 1415’ to Frakmuntegg where we started to hike with a destination at Krienseregg at 1026’. By the time we started to hike it was raining pretty hard. Several people had put a folding umbrella in their day pack and they went up rather quickly. I got the giggles as it seemed so ludicrous to be hiking with an umbrella. The tree canopy was rather heavy so we really didn’t get very wet. The path was well kept and fortunately not slippery. It’s interesting that in Switzerland distances are not measured in kilometers from point A to point B, but rather measured in the time it takes an average hiker to make the trek. Time, not distance, signs were consistent throughout the country.

At Krienseregg we took a small cable car to the bottom where we boarded a bus for a short ride back to Lucerne. In spite of the weather we had a grand time, and fortunately that was our last rainy day for the whole trip. Ah, make no mistake, those Swiss Alps are gorgeous!

Sunday, September 12, 2010

A PLEASANT SURPRISE

A GREAT HOTEL

In Prague we stayed at the Hotel Petr located in a residential area rather than in the bustling city which meant that it was quiet, especially at night. It was a darling homey and friendly little hotel with only 35-37 rooms. We were but a block or so from a bus line. However, even though we bought bus tickets we never used them. We walked everywhere, as it was an easy walk to and from the city center. At the end of the week we left the bus tickets for the maid.

There were no bellboys at the Hotel Petr, so we grabbed our luggage and made it up stairs to our room.
Our room was lovely and the bed looks comfortable. Being on the second floor we were able to leave the window open.

In a few days we would learn from the owner, “This hotel, built in 1910 was once my grandmother’s home. During the Communist regime the house was taken, and she was allowed to remain in a small two-room apartment. Once we were free from the Communist bloc we put in for repatriation of the house. My grandmother died in 1985.

“I have been restoring the hotel one floor at a time. In the beginning we had as many employees as we had rooms. That wasn’t very profitable. We learned a lot about free emterprize so today  we have a much better ratio .”

This fellow told us how during WWII people smuggled radios to illegally listen to Voice of America and how grateful they were to our country for the broadcasts.

The hotel was well run. We were comfortable, had unexpected amenities, and had a wonderful visit and stay. I hope this fellow has continued to prosper and do well.

Saturday, September 11, 2010

UNUSUAL SIGHTING

Postojna Cave's Albino Salamander
In Slovenia Postojna (pohSTOYnah), is a 20 kilometer subterranean labyrinth, making it the largest cave in Europe, but only five kilometers of the cave is open to the public. There are over 8000 caves in Slovenia with only 25 are open to the public. Like all caves, this amazing place was carved and shaped by water millions of years ago. Some of the abundant colorful stalagmites and stalactites reach one hundred feet. Translucent curtains of rock and skinny spaghetti stalactites were gorgeous.

The human fish—a long skinny salamander with fingers and toes, is the world’s largest cave dwelling animal. It can survive seven years without eating. The albino creature has both lungs and gills. They can grow to be 12 inches long and can live 100 years. Because of the total darkness this salamander is an albino. The live specimens are not fed for the four months they are on display in the cave.

The crowds were thick with many older school children. We started the tour of the cave on an electric train which took us five kilometers into the cave and then we walked another mile on well kept paths. The cave opened in 1819 and electricity arrived in 1820. The first push train was replaced with the miniature electric one in 1959. The lowest point in the cave is 163 feet below ground level. Thank goodness for electricity! The temperature in the cave is a constant 55 degrees so it was pleasant walking about. We picked up an English speaking guide when we left the train and before starting our walk.

Colors in the cave come from various elements. Red comes from iron, grey from magnesium, and green from algae.

The cave itself was gorgeous, and the albino creature added even more interest to this fantastic place.

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

SURPRISED TO LEARN

RUSSIAN TEA

When I think of Russia I think vodka, so I was surprised to learn that Russians are as taken with their tea as the English. In fact tea could be the national drink of Russia. A good tea warms the mind, body, and soul.

During a tea lecture we learned that universal rules for making real tea dictates forgetting about tea bags and never cooking the tea leaves. Large tea plantations are located in an area in the Cavcasus Mountain Range on the shore of the Black Sea in Georgia, but the origin of tea is of little importance. Expensive tea can be mixed with cheap tea and actually is encouraged.

Making Russian tea is a two step process. First one makes the zavarka, then it is watered  down by adding boiling water known as kipyatok.  Water is first boiled in a samovar, a large tank whose literal translation would be ‘autobrewer’. The samovar  not only is an ordinary household item but a hallmark of the Russian way of life and hospitality. Tula, a city south of Moscow, has been the major samovar maker since the 18th century. Originally charcoal burning, it was not until the 1950s and 60s that an electric version came into being and gained popular use.

The teapot, called a chainik, should be warmed before starting the process, and only a ceramic or glass chainik is acceptable for making tea. If hot water has been used to warm the pot it is emptied before adding the tea leaves. Boiling water is poured over the tea leaves, the lid replaced on the pot and the pot covered with a towel to keep it warm.

When all the leaves have sunk to the bottom, the zavarka is ready. It is very strong, and is dangerous to drink directly from the pot. The strong narcotic effect can cause a rapid heartbeat, hallucinations, and restlessness. The zavarka is diluted generally 10:1 with boiling water in a cup or mug. A chestnut color is perfect. The cup or mug is nearly always placed on a saucer before pouring the zavarka. The softer the water the better the tea.

Arguments on the pros and cons of adding anything to the tea can go on forever. However, it is common to add sugar, but never more than three teaspoons.

Making Russian tea is a time consuming process, but an old Russian proverb says: if you rush, you make people laugh---the equivalent to haste makes waste.